I emailed hunter directly and they were no help. I am in the process of purchacing a 1979 model and it is in need of headsails. what are the actual dimensions(not %) of the yankee and club footed jib. local sailmakers all seem to have their own ideas. most of my sailing is in light (under 15) conditions. i will most likely get a crusing spin for that reason but i want a good set of working sails. Hs anyone moved the boom higher on the mast(6-12 in)? would like not to have the boom hit me while standing in cockpit. What is the size wire of the standing rigging? replacing the original hunter rollerfurling, will need to replace the headstay, right? Is the 20 hp yanmar TO SMALL for average use(my wife says so)conditions. 2 or 3 bladed prop and what size of each for this engine. if i think of anything else i will call upon the knowledge of this list. please email me direct at keladi@sunet.net thanks chet P
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Bob Miller
40 HP Yanmar
Chet, I have the 4 cylindar, 40 HP Yanmar in my 1984 37C and am very happy with it. A Yanmar rep at the boat show made the comment that I have "more than enough". I am very happy with plenty of HP for motoring into weather. I have a three bladed prop. I cruise about 6 knots at 3700 rpm. 20 HP sounds a lttle light to me, but plenty of 37Cs get by with it. Hope this helps.
Chet, I have the 4 cylindar, 40 HP Yanmar in my 1984 37C and am very happy with it. A Yanmar rep at the boat show made the comment that I have "more than enough". I am very happy with plenty of HP for motoring into weather. I have a three bladed prop. I cruise about 6 knots at 3700 rpm. 20 HP sounds a lttle light to me, but plenty of 37Cs get by with it. Hope this helps.
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Mike Alge
37c
Chet: I can tell you about the engine better than I can about the sails . Hereshoff rule of thumb is 1.5 hp per ton of displacement to move the boat at hull speed [ the square root of the water line length times 1.34 ] . On the 37c that works out to be 7.34 kt. The 37c has a disp. of 17800# divided by 2000# per ton equals 8.9 tons times 1.5 for 13.35hp.You still have a 6.6 hp reserve. Adding more horsepower will not increase your speed , it will only burn more fuel. As for the wire sizes, buy or borrow a dial caliper and measure the wires . This web site has a section that deals with specs and dimensions and one of those is the I.J.P
Chet: I can tell you about the engine better than I can about the sails . Hereshoff rule of thumb is 1.5 hp per ton of displacement to move the boat at hull speed [ the square root of the water line length times 1.34 ] . On the 37c that works out to be 7.34 kt. The 37c has a disp. of 17800# divided by 2000# per ton equals 8.9 tons times 1.5 for 13.35hp.You still have a 6.6 hp reserve. Adding more horsepower will not increase your speed , it will only burn more fuel. As for the wire sizes, buy or borrow a dial caliper and measure the wires . This web site has a section that deals with specs and dimensions and one of those is the I.J.P
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Ed Schenck
H37Cutter
Hi Chet, If the IPJE values from this site are not sufficient I can measure my genoa on the living room floor. As you know it has an unusual cut. But I would think a reputable sailloft would know those dimensions. I've thought about repowering, even talked to a Yanmar rep at the Cleveland boat show. About $8000. to move up to a 3-cyl, 30HP. But I've been in some real heavy weather on Lake Erie and the 20HP has been fine, 4 or 5 knots with the bow going under every other wave. But I did buy a new prop for this season, mainly so I can back up! I doubt that there is a furler that could incorporate your present headstay. But it's worth asking the question. Check with Rig-Rite. The boom height has not been a problem. I keep the topping lift snug and at over 6 foot have plenty of headroom and bimini clearance. I will add a vang this year for those downwind runs. Check the archives though, this has been discussed. And I want to say 5/16" on the stays/shrouds but that's a guess. Ed(schencked@bfusa.com)
Hi Chet, If the IPJE values from this site are not sufficient I can measure my genoa on the living room floor. As you know it has an unusual cut. But I would think a reputable sailloft would know those dimensions. I've thought about repowering, even talked to a Yanmar rep at the Cleveland boat show. About $8000. to move up to a 3-cyl, 30HP. But I've been in some real heavy weather on Lake Erie and the 20HP has been fine, 4 or 5 knots with the bow going under every other wave. But I did buy a new prop for this season, mainly so I can back up! I doubt that there is a furler that could incorporate your present headstay. But it's worth asking the question. Check with Rig-Rite. The boom height has not been a problem. I keep the topping lift snug and at over 6 foot have plenty of headroom and bimini clearance. I will add a vang this year for those downwind runs. Check the archives though, this has been discussed. And I want to say 5/16" on the stays/shrouds but that's a guess. Ed(schencked@bfusa.com)
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Gene Gruender
37 Cutter feedback
As to the sails, a good sailmaker can measure and probably come up with much better sails than the originals. If he knows your intended usage, he should be able to give you a much better setup. This boat has a lot of weather helm. I added a bowsprit and moved the forestay out about 3 1/2 feet. It helped a lot. If you are into big projects, you might consider this also. Decide before you order your sails. Moving the boom up - Yes, I moved mine up, about 6" and I will move it another 6" or so soon as it still scrapes the top of my bimini. The main thing you need to watch for is whether you have enough room to raise the mainsail that much. You might find, if you don't have the clearance at the top of the mast to raise the sail farther, you just created another project. Standing rigging - the original stays are 9/32". I would recommend going up one size if you're going to replace them. Some will say that the rigging size is not that big of a deal, but I sleep better now. Not asked, but about the chainplates: I've now found 4 cracked chainplates. The way they are installed, the rigging doesn't pull straight in line, it outs a side load on them. The cracks I've found are all on the outside of the top bolt hole, which leads me to believe that they aren't heavy enough. I've replaced 2, and am in the process of replacing the rest with 3/8" in place of the original 1/4" plates. These can be made at home, they are just 3/8" by 18" bu 1 1/2" stainless stock. Drill the holes, grind the curve at the top, polish and you have new ones. If you're not up to that, I had my first 2 made at a machine shop for $40 each, material included. I strongly recommend any H37 C owner check theirs. Most of the upgrades, etc. we've done to Rainbow Chaser are on a website. The link is here on the Hunter Owner's site or just go to: http://www.geocities.com/thetropics/cabana/7414 Gene Gruender Rainbow Chaser
As to the sails, a good sailmaker can measure and probably come up with much better sails than the originals. If he knows your intended usage, he should be able to give you a much better setup. This boat has a lot of weather helm. I added a bowsprit and moved the forestay out about 3 1/2 feet. It helped a lot. If you are into big projects, you might consider this also. Decide before you order your sails. Moving the boom up - Yes, I moved mine up, about 6" and I will move it another 6" or so soon as it still scrapes the top of my bimini. The main thing you need to watch for is whether you have enough room to raise the mainsail that much. You might find, if you don't have the clearance at the top of the mast to raise the sail farther, you just created another project. Standing rigging - the original stays are 9/32". I would recommend going up one size if you're going to replace them. Some will say that the rigging size is not that big of a deal, but I sleep better now. Not asked, but about the chainplates: I've now found 4 cracked chainplates. The way they are installed, the rigging doesn't pull straight in line, it outs a side load on them. The cracks I've found are all on the outside of the top bolt hole, which leads me to believe that they aren't heavy enough. I've replaced 2, and am in the process of replacing the rest with 3/8" in place of the original 1/4" plates. These can be made at home, they are just 3/8" by 18" bu 1 1/2" stainless stock. Drill the holes, grind the curve at the top, polish and you have new ones. If you're not up to that, I had my first 2 made at a machine shop for $40 each, material included. I strongly recommend any H37 C owner check theirs. Most of the upgrades, etc. we've done to Rainbow Chaser are on a website. The link is here on the Hunter Owner's site or just go to: http://www.geocities.com/thetropics/cabana/7414 Gene Gruender Rainbow Chaser
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Bob Miller
Shoal Keel?
Actually, now that you mention it, it is probably not a shoal draft keel. I draw 5 ft of water, not 4.
Actually, now that you mention it, it is probably not a shoal draft keel. I draw 5 ft of water, not 4.
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John Killian
Raising boom
Chet, I raised my boom appx 6 or 7 inches and it made all the difference in my new bimini. My main was already short so no need to recut. I would recommend using the top holes port and starboard on the mast matched to the bottom holes on the boom then drilling and tapping new holes for the remainder of the boom. that keeps eveything aligned to lower the boom if needed using some of the original holes. Added benefit, you dont have to stoop as much to flake the main.
Chet, I raised my boom appx 6 or 7 inches and it made all the difference in my new bimini. My main was already short so no need to recut. I would recommend using the top holes port and starboard on the mast matched to the bottom holes on the boom then drilling and tapping new holes for the remainder of the boom. that keeps eveything aligned to lower the boom if needed using some of the original holes. Added benefit, you dont have to stoop as much to flake the main.
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John Killian
Raising club foot staysail boom
Chet, I also raised the staysail boom appx, one foot. Best thing I ever did. Now I can open the Front hatch, and the lines clear the dorades when tacking, also better vision and I can flatten and trim the staysail better when going to weather. Caution, I had to shorten the boom appx 3 to 4 inches to clear the mast when tacking after raising it. Good Luck
Chet, I also raised the staysail boom appx, one foot. Best thing I ever did. Now I can open the Front hatch, and the lines clear the dorades when tacking, also better vision and I can flatten and trim the staysail better when going to weather. Caution, I had to shorten the boom appx 3 to 4 inches to clear the mast when tacking after raising it. Good Luck
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