323 Lazy bag replacement

[wrbeglin]

As much as I like the Neil Pryde lazy bag, the material on my 2004 is shot and the whole bag could use replacement. Besides purchasing a duplicate one, has anyone had one made by a thrid party, and possibly made form Sunbrella material which though heavier would be much more durable.

 

[DougM]

If you have the manual for your boat, it has a page in it with all of the dimensions for the lazy bag. You could take that to any awning shop or canvas shop and possibly have one made. You might also check Sail Rite. they are located outside Indianapolis. They may have kits or the option of making one for you.

I also have a 323, but my manual is in Michigan and I'm in VA.

I've found that while the material in my lazy bag is still good, all of the stitching is slowly rotting out. I thought I could probably get some more years out of it by having it re stitched with some better UV resistant thread.

 

[Gunni]

Having the bag restitched is definitely worth the effort. Might take 2 hours ($150) and have them use that UV resistant teflon thread. It lasts much longer.

My bag comes off this year and heads to Doyle for some repairs and improvements. I figure they invented the design, they should be able to repair, or recommend replacement.

 

[Cwoody]

Lazy bag rigging

My lazy jack is in OK shape but getting it adjusted right has been a pain.
Not sure why Beneteau runs the lazy jack line through a hole in the spreaders.
Going to change the lazy jack rigging on my 331 next year. Adding a block on the mast where it is currently tied off and extending the top adjustment line through the block and down to a couple of cleats on either side of the mast.
Will leave enough line on the cleat to easily slack or tighten the system. Dropping the bag down a bit while sailing might improve performance.

cmw

 

[bob_pattison]

Lazy Bags

Re: Lazy Bags.
A friend of mine mentioned this post and asked me to weigh in.
A couple of things on the NP Bags that might be of interest.
1. New and replacement bags have a lot of new improvements that help to make them fit better and last longer.
2. Replacements can be had in sunbrella...note that only the bags on the models under 40' had the Sun Odessey material...which isn't quite the same color match.
3. Spreader hole for the lines. This is to create more of 'basket' shape to the lines so that the sail does not catch up as much. Ideally they turn through the spreader and are led to the mast and down so they are adjustable. There can be some chafe at the spreader on the lines..can be fixed with chafe gear or maybe a block would be better? I'd keep the basket shape though.
4. Goretex thread. This is available...though not as strong as dacron it is almost impervious to U.V...and in the case of the bags it's not being asked to be structural in the way that stitching is on the seams of your sail, so it is a good option. Quite expensive, but again in a bag, not a lot being used.
5. It's not uncommon to have the bags restitched...much like you need to do on the trailing edge of the genoa UV cover..it is exposed 24/7 and gets a lot of chafe. Usually both are done about half way through the use cycle...which is latitude dependent.
Hope this is of help.
Bob Pattison
Neil Pryde Sails Int.

 

[Cwoody]

Re: Lazy Bags.
3. Spreader hole for the lines. Bob Pattison
Neil Pryde Sails Int.

Thanks Bob this makes since. I wondered why I was doing alot less yelling at my wife to "keep her pointed into the wind" when dropping the main.

BTY: Nice meeting you on trade day at the boat show (sure you met a few folks).
We talked about setting up a Cruising Spinnaker with a fox logo for Fox Sea.
Still on the books for next spring.

Chuck

 

[Ron20324]

On my B323 with the LazyPack, the starboard lazy jack line chaffed- and broke- rather quickly where it goes through the spreader. I placed a twisted D shackle in the holes so the lazy-j runs through the u-shaped(smooth) part. You'd have to place a shackle to hang a block there, so figured I'd try just the shackle first. Works okay so far.

I took the upper ends of the lazy jacks off the mast, joined them to a third line that runs up and through the block in the mast a few feet above the steaming light. The third line I ran to the cockpit to a line stopper. I can slack off the lazy jacks when sailing, but also opens the bag wider when you drop the main.

 

[bob_pattison]

Thanks Bob this makes since. I wondered why I was doing alot less yelling at my wife to "keep her pointed into the wind" when dropping the main.

BTY: Nice meeting you on trade day at the boat show (sure you met a few folks).
We talked about setting up a Cruising Spinnaker with a fox logo for Fox Sea.
Still on the books for next spring.

Chuck

Just a few! And a good deal of the folks were Beneteau owners: new, old and soon to be.

bp

 

[Gunni]

Pryde Asymmetric

Hey Bob, thanks for weighing in on things NP. Is there some specific document available for the Pryde Beneteau A-sail set-up? I'm just sort of winging it with the tack pennant on the bow anchor roller and figure that there has to be some specific detailed instructions? - don't have a sprit. I also find that when gybing with a short crew, best procedure is to pull down the snuffer and re-attach the sheets for the new course. Otherwise we seem to end up with a twisted sail, and lots of salty comments.Thanks, Gunni

 

[DougM]

I have my asym tack line run through a block attached to a padeye at the bow and led back to a rope clutch on the cabin top. I lead my sheets outside of the forestay and obviously outside the shrouds to blocks at the stern and thenforward to the sheet winches.

I keep some tension in both sheets when tacking until the clew is past the forestay. I have not had problems with getting the sail twisted on itself. I do have a snuffer, but generally the only time I use it is when I douse the sail.

Gybing, again keeping tension on the sheet you are releasing until it is forward of the forestay, then sheeting in quickly on the opposite side seems to work for me.

It gets easier when you get the timing down and don't oversteer on the gybe.

 

[Gunni]

Thanks Doug, I rig mine in similar matter using a snatch block attached to the bow roller and lead a line from the tack back to the cabin top. I'm also concerned by the amount of wear n tear on the spanker as we draw it across the bow, so I tend to gybe. But your method makes sense, I suppose that you also slack the tack line to let the sail rise well clear of the bow. Think I need more crew.

 

[bob_pattison]

Hey Bob, thanks for weighing in on things NP. Is there some specific document available for the Pryde Beneteau A-sail set-up? I'm just sort of winging it with the tack pennant on the bow anchor roller and figure that there has to be some specific detailed instructions? - don't have a sprit. I also find that when gybing with a short crew, best procedure is to pull down the snuffer and re-attach the sheets for the new course. Otherwise we seem to end up with a twisted sail, and lots of salty comments.Thanks, Gunni

Gunni:
Yes, I'll post it as a new thread so it doesn't get buried in this lazy bag thread.

Bob