The bilge pump on my 309, Hull #22, is not pumping the bilge. It runs but nothing comes out of the discharge. When I disconnected the tubing from the output of the check valve, which is directly connected to the pump output, it pumped fine. When I did that, the standing water in the line drained out, and when I hooked it back up it worked and water came out of the hull discharge. But, when I tried it again, (now the discharge line was full) it again didn't discharge. My only conclusion is that the pump doesn't have enough initial pressure to force the check valve open against the head in the discharge line. The problem seems to have started last year around the time I discovered a leak/split in the discharge line about 5 ft from the output of the pump. As the ribbed tubing looked difficult to repair I cut the tube and installed an in-line pvc coupler. I don't know if that created enough of a restriction to increase the pressure of the head against the output of the check valve, but, coincidentally or not, later in the year I noticed that there was no discharge through the hull when the pump ran. I have been regularly using the Whale manual pump to get the water that is collecting in the bilge from the refrigerator and A/C condensate.
I have had friends recommend that I remove the check valve from the discharge of the pump, and that the loop in the line before it goes through the thru-hull should be enough to protect against siphoning seawater into the bilge. I could also replace the direct/connected check valve with an in-line one further downstream. I could even replace the coupler I used to repair the leak with that in-line valve.
Anybody have similar problems, or any comments? Would appreciate any advice.
Ken Reed
309 #22 "Duet"
New Buffalo, MI
I have had friends recommend that I remove the check valve from the discharge of the pump, and that the loop in the line before it goes through the thru-hull should be enough to protect against siphoning seawater into the bilge. I could also replace the direct/connected check valve with an in-line one further downstream. I could even replace the coupler I used to repair the leak with that in-line valve.
Anybody have similar problems, or any comments? Would appreciate any advice.
Ken Reed
309 #22 "Duet"
New Buffalo, MI