Is it necessary to have a siphon fitting in the salt water line to the mixing elbow? I have one now that is corroded and leaking into the bilge when the engine is running. I'm thinking of leaving it out as in the YANMAR diagrams there does not seem to be a siphon shown. Any ideas?
2gm20f mixing elbow
- Thread starter Ray1156
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I have a 3gm
and I don't think it has a siphon or an anti siphon hose in the raw water line. It does have a water lift muffler, and a closed but non vented loop in the exhaust line. Not sure what you are describing here, but don't think I have it.
and I don't think it has a siphon or an anti siphon hose in the raw water line. It does have a water lift muffler, and a closed but non vented loop in the exhaust line. Not sure what you are describing here, but don't think I have it.
Thanks for the reply. I'm speaking of the 5/8" hose that runs from the salt water cooling system to the mixing elbow to cool the exhaust. Its actually quite high up in the engine compartment well above the water line but is fitted with a stainless steel anti siphon loop that has failed.
I suspect
that the line you are talking about is on the line that goes to the hot water heater. There is an anti siphon valve in that line, and you would certainly want to replace that one.
that the line you are talking about is on the line that goes to the hot water heater. There is an anti siphon valve in that line, and you would certainly want to replace that one.
2gmsof mixing elbow
Thanks for the reply. The line I'm speaking of is an 18" long 5/8" line from the rear the heat exchanger directly to the mixing elbow.
Thanks for the reply. The line I'm speaking of is an 18" long 5/8" line from the rear the heat exchanger directly to the mixing elbow.
In that case
Ray,
In that case, with a heat exchanger, which means it is not raw water cooled, I don't have a clue. Mine is raw water cooled, and the only anti siphon is the line to the hot water heater.
Ray,
In that case, with a heat exchanger, which means it is not raw water cooled, I don't have a clue. Mine is raw water cooled, and the only anti siphon is the line to the hot water heater.
Vented Loop / Vaccum Break / Anti-siphon
My '99 H310 has the same loop you are describing. My was leaking also, the vent itself, and I finally called Hunter Marine. They no longer use that loop, they use a vetus loop now. They did refer me to a supplier and I bought two vents. $35.00 with delivery from the East coast. I don't have the name handy but probably could find it if you need it
My '99 H310 has the same loop you are describing. My was leaking also, the vent itself, and I finally called Hunter Marine. They no longer use that loop, they use a vetus loop now. They did refer me to a supplier and I bought two vents. $35.00 with delivery from the East coast. I don't have the name handy but probably could find it if you need it
I have a 93 Hunter 30,
and you would be suprised as to what can be below the waterline when healed. I replaced mine with a plastic version, but I would not omit the anti-syphon valve in the line between the heat exchanger and the mixing elbow. Also, check the thru-hull for the head sink, might want to add a seacock to that sucker. Almost sank the boat when the hose fell off the sink last month, thank God I sent a kid for a beer, and he knew a foot of water on the sole was not right.
Salty
and you would be suprised as to what can be below the waterline when healed. I replaced mine with a plastic version, but I would not omit the anti-syphon valve in the line between the heat exchanger and the mixing elbow. Also, check the thru-hull for the head sink, might want to add a seacock to that sucker. Almost sank the boat when the hose fell off the sink last month, thank God I sent a kid for a beer, and he knew a foot of water on the sole was not right.
Salty
Vetus
My policy is that if a boat/engine builder installed a device it should be replaced if the original goes bad. Here is the Vetus valve I installed on my 2GM20F.
My policy is that if a boat/engine builder installed a device it should be replaced if the original goes bad. Here is the Vetus valve I installed on my 2GM20F.
I'm with Roy
One doesn't take parts off a Yanmar as extraneous.
You can jury rig it as he did, but ships store can order from Yanmar.
One doesn't take parts off a Yanmar as extraneous.
You can jury rig it as he did, but ships store can order from Yanmar.
Parts Source
Ray, I am going to the boat Wednesday, will get the name of the supplier for you. The vetus valve that Roy showed you is what Hunter Marine is installing on their present production.
Deadline, the item in question is a user/builder item, not available from Yanmar, I tried that as a source when I was trying to replace mine.
Ray, I am going to the boat Wednesday, will get the name of the supplier for you. The vetus valve that Roy showed you is what Hunter Marine is installing on their present production.
Deadline, the item in question is a user/builder item, not available from Yanmar, I tried that as a source when I was trying to replace mine.
All depends on 'how high' the elbow is in relation to the 'waterline'
If the elbow is above the waterline (when the boat is heeled) then the injection elbow doesnt need a 'siphon break' as it will be 'self draining' and self limiting.
If the elbow is below the (heeled) waterline then you should consider to raise the geometry of the 'riser' to the injection elbow to be above the dynamic maximum waterline.
Such geometry is satisfied by the following question: will the vacuum caused by a cooling engine be sufficient to allow the cooling/seawater to reverse flow back into the engine (flooding a cylinder) when the exhaust nozzle at the stern is submerged? ... the answer is: the higher the 'riser pipe' the less the chance of 'back-flooding' a cylinder.
If the elbow is above the waterline (when the boat is heeled) then the injection elbow doesnt need a 'siphon break' as it will be 'self draining' and self limiting.
If the elbow is below the (heeled) waterline then you should consider to raise the geometry of the 'riser' to the injection elbow to be above the dynamic maximum waterline.
Such geometry is satisfied by the following question: will the vacuum caused by a cooling engine be sufficient to allow the cooling/seawater to reverse flow back into the engine (flooding a cylinder) when the exhaust nozzle at the stern is submerged? ... the answer is: the higher the 'riser pipe' the less the chance of 'back-flooding' a cylinder.
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