29.5 engine problems

Status
Not open for further replies.
J

Jane

Last weekend my engine died ( Hunter 29.5, Yanmar 2gm20f, 18hp) . The rpms dropped (without touching the trottle) and then finally died. I "think" (cause I don't know much about Diesel engines) the fuel was not getting in. I did bleed the engine and some fuel came out, the engine started, but then died soon again. I tried bleeding again and no fuel came out this time (seems like I pumped a long time) . This was all happening last Sunday on the Ches. Bay with 25 kt winds and 4 ft. (at least) seas. When I reached my channel, I dropped anchor and called Tow Boat. After getting back and settled in my slip, I realized that is another fuel filter/seperator farther back closer to the fuel tank (a bronzey looking thing with the fuel line coming and one going out). My question is==> is there any special technique to bleed this filter or clean it or replace it or what? Am I looking in the right direction? Thanks for any advice. Jane P.S. I also checked the hose at the intake seacock, oil level, fuel in the tank, and air filter, all were ok. Fuel filter where I bled it looked good too.
 
S

Steve O.

fuel problem

You have two fuel filters called primary and secondary filters. The one you cleaned was your secondary filter, but you should always start with the primary filter since it is first in line coming out of the fuel tank. Shut off the fuel flow valve, remove the filter bowl with a dish or something under it to catch any spill, check for water and/or sediment in the fuel, replace the filter and reassemble. Remember to turn the fuel valve back on. You will probably have to bleed after doing this, but it sounds like you already know how to do that. You may have to do this several times, depending on how much foreign material is in your tank.
 
E

Ed Schenck

In addition.

I carry a 6-gal. outboard tank in a locker with 3-gal of diesel. I can connect it directly to the Racor and a few squeezes of the hose bulb and I do not even have to bleed. This can save the tow bill. Your problem sounds like a clogged screen in the tank. Or a clogged pickup if you do not have a screen. I can remove the hose from the primary filter and blow in it to clear the pickup. I can hear the bubbles in the tank. This clears thing up temporarily but is the reason I put a large cleanout port right over the pickup. I have also used my manual oil extraction pump to pull the dirty fuel from the tank all the way to the engine. This saves a lot of bleeding.
 
A

Andy Falls

I've been there

and it is not fun! I think the other two post have ID the problem. I had almost the exact same problem this spring. I replaced the Racor filter (the primary filter). It should be just to port of your sea cock. I had to remove the housing to get the filer off, so I disconnected all the hoses. Make sure you get a good flow from the tank/thru the Racor before going to the trouble to re-bleed. That way you will know the screen in the pickup tube (in the tank) is not clogged
 
A

Alex

I had similar problem on my 29.5..

..and it was a clogged tank screen. I eventualy blew it into the tank . it solved the problem , but now I might have a 'surprise' waiting in the future.. Somehow these tanks were built without a port to clean them thru..
 
B

Bill Murray

Here is the answer - again

I have written on my experiences on this subject several times before regarding my experiences on my H29.5 (hull #175) -- CHECK THE ARCHIVES. before I figured it out, I had a very scary first year of sailing this boat. Your problem is the junk in the bottom of the tank gets sucked up into tthe fuel pickup screen which was soldered in such a way that it has a very small inlet hole when clean. once it is dirty - it has no hole. the engine runs until it runs out of fuel which is a surprisingly long time. In fact mine would idle indefinitely. As soon as I went anywhere, it would run out of fuel. Usually in the crowded river between my slip and Lake St Clair! To clean out your tank and to remove the pick up tube, you need to remove your tank. This is pretty easy on the 29.5. Just pull the big access panel at the aft end of the aft berth and voila - there are the tanks! - The fuel is on the port and the waste on the starboard. Cut the strapping holding the tank and the (empty) tank will slide right out. Take it off the boat and do with it as you wish. Be sure to pull the pick up tube out and get rid of the screen on the end. It is the souce of most problems. This is a good time to add an inspection port - if you like those things. ( I don't - my Dad's boat had one and it always leaked and we spent more effort keeping it sealed than it would have taken to do it my way) Also be sure to clean out all the gook and especially any plastic shavings from the manufacture of the tank -- yes! They probably left them in there on purpose - after all you have filters - right? Slide the tank back in the boat - replace the strapping with a ratchet adjustable nylon webbing tie down - good quality - then you can repeat the procedure easily anytime you want. On top of it all, the fuel shutoff is on top of the tank and almost inaccessible. Plus you have to take everything out of the port gull-wing locker to get at it and there isn't enpoough room in the cockpit for everything that is "stowed" down in there. Buy a new shutoff valve with the appropriate barb fittings and stainless clamps and put it in the fuel hose right before the racor filter. Then you can control it while working on the filter. Better yet, buy two, plus some more hose and another racor filter and plumb in a redundant filter so you can switch back and forth. A very nice set up especially because the "emergency" will happen when you do not have an hour or two of comfortable time to fix it as you have already found out. Good Luck Bill Murray S/V Good faith H29.5 #175
 
L

L. Vander Hoeven

don't forget the fuel cap "o" rings!!

I had a problem very much like the one you describe. My problem turned out to be the O ring on the fuel cap. It had disentegrated and was letting water into the fuel tank. The motor would run and then stall, cranking it would eventually restart it. Its easy to remove the water by removing the hose from the primary filter and let the water drain. Don't over look something as simple as an O ring. Good luck!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.