29.5 Cutlass Bearing and Rudder Bearings

[RobJ74]

These are two winter projects I'd like to do. I'm at a loss as to finding out what sizes I need for these parts. I've emailed Hunter - no response. I emailed 'deep blue yacht supply' - couldn't help me. Is it possible to get these parts in hand prior to lifting the boat? It would save a lot of time in the event something is back ordered or hard to source out.

If someone has a way to source out these parts, sizes or just knows from a recent install I'd very much appreciate your help.

Rob

 

[Warren Milberg]

Rob:

I think it is far more risky to try to buy these parts in advance. Cutless and rudder bearings (as are sail dimensions, packing glands and so forth) can vary. While Hunter probably used standard parts through your model run, you just can't count on it. When I replaced my cutless bearing on my H28.5, I knew that when I measured the strut after the boat was out that the new one would fit. As I could not find any OEM rudder bearings when I replaced those items, I took off the old ones and had duplicates fabricated at a plastics shop. They fit perfectly. Good luck with these projects.

 

[RobJ74]

Thanks very much Warren. May be a better idea will be to pull the boat out sooner (say in late winter) and allow a little more time on the hard, to acquire parts. However... if someone does have a link to one that fits; please post a link.

We're your rudder bearings a skilled job or can a somewhat handy novice figure this project out?

 

[Warren Milberg]

While I consider myself "fairly handy," I didn't think I had the skill or tools to fabricate my new rudder bearings. My boat has two round upper rudder bearings that require center holes cut to fit the exact diameter of the rudder post. I think these bearings were made out of Derlin. Also, on my 1986 H28.5, I could find no evidence that Hunter ever used a lower rudder bearing to support the rudder post where it enters the rudder tube. Shop I used was able to build a custom bearing for that area that I could slip over the rudder post and then into the lower end of the tube. Making this bearing required quite a bit of skill. In this area, the 3 bearings cost about $300 to make. See pic below.

 

[RobJ74]

Great photo, thanks. It looks very similar to mine. I wasn't thinking of fabricating my own bearings, just installing them was what I intended to do myself.

 

[Guest]

H29.5

Hi Rob, what did you use to determine that it is time to replace your rudder and cutlass bearings?

Don Martin with Hunter Marine Customer Service provided me with the following information about our 1991 P42. I've edited his response a bit for clarity:

The rudder bearings are sleeves that are made from UHMW material. The sleeves do not require any lubricate. There is no adjustment on these bearings. If they develop too much side-to-side play then the bearings would need to be replaced. Anything over 1/8th inch play would be considered outside of tolerance and the bearing would need to be replaced.

In another e-mail to Don I asked him whether it was a matter of dropping the rudder and popping the old bearing out or did it require special tools? He said that after the rudder is removed you should be able to remove the bearings by driving the top bearing out and from the underside of the boat you should be able to insert something like a 1 x 2 up into the rudder tube and there should be a ridge at the bottom of the top bearing, you should be able to get the 1 x 2 on this ridge and drive the bearing up. This would be reverse for the bottom bearing.

Whether the 29.5 is the same as our P42 Hunter Marine Customer Service can tell you. The cutlass bearing on our 1991 boat has 1,400 engine hours and there is still no play.

Terry Cox

 

[RobJ74]

Thanks Terrry, great information, I've copied and saved your post.

Two years ago while bottom painting I noticed a bit of side to side play, and measured it at about a 16th. This past spring I did the same again and noticed about a 16th 'plus'. I'd rather get on top of it sooner than later.

Sorry, had to edit about the cutlass bearing. In the spring I managed to take out my prop with a deadhead, cutting one blade clean off. I'm still on a borrowed prop and will be changing it as soon as I can find a reasonable replacement source. The drive shaft is unharmed from the power sail at idle back but I did put some noticable wear on that bearing. Had it checked out by a local 'guy in the know' who said I should change it before the next season.

 

[Guest]

29.5

Hi Rob, you're welcome. The guy who surveyed our first boat advised me that another way of reducing rudder post play, as opposed to replacing the bearings, is to drop the rudder a few inches and insert a cut piece of teflon sheet as a shim on the lower end.

Terry Cox