I fully pull my trailer into the water but the 26x just won't go all the way onto the trailer. It is afloat in the stern when I load and not heavily loaded. The ballast is usually full. Trying to remove that by motoring would be a real bother when I almost sail in to dock. I then have to hit the brakes hard to get it forward enough when the ballast has drained. What's up with this, design flaw. The only added weight in the bow is maybe a 1/2 full water tank and twin batterys right a-bow of the front dinete seat. Hate slambing the brakes to get it loaded safely and the crank/pully won't move that much weight. It is cranked as far forward as possible before I remove it from the water. So what else can I try.
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Is the hull waxed? Have you made sure the fabric over the bunks is in good condition and lubricated with Liquid Rollers? Launching and retrieving from a ramp with a different angle? Floating more of the boat?
Is the hull waxed? Have you made sure the fabric over the bunks is in good condition and lubricated with Liquid Rollers? Launching and retrieving from a ramp with a different angle? Floating more of the boat?
rollers
I'm not sure I understand what you are describing. Would replacing your bunks with a roller system help? My guess is that it should crank up easily after that.
I'm not sure I understand what you are describing. Would replacing your bunks with a roller system help? My guess is that it should crank up easily after that.
Situation Normal
In nine years I have only seen a 26X loaded completely without the "MacGregor Bump" one time. The owner stopped every few feet up the ramp and cranked the boat as far as it would go before proceeding a few more feet. I tried it once. Didn't work for me. Guess you can't teach an old sailor new tricks. Caution - using a liguid roller spray on the bunks REALLY helps.
In nine years I have only seen a 26X loaded completely without the "MacGregor Bump" one time. The owner stopped every few feet up the ramp and cranked the boat as far as it would go before proceeding a few more feet. I tried it once. Didn't work for me. Guess you can't teach an old sailor new tricks. Caution - using a liguid roller spray on the bunks REALLY helps.
Move the winch( er wench?)
Guys I haven't looked at the 26X,M trailer setup closely. I would suggest as has been done before here that the trailer winch is in the wrong place due to cost restraints at the Mfr. Moving the winch up and over the bow stop is the only thing I can think of that helps. In my case everytime I come out of the water the boat doesn't get pulled up far enough due to the winch cable angle. The old stop and bump works but not well with antilock brakes. I usually use the ramp which is large to slide the boat towards the stop. Driving down a good hill is another way to do it. Yes, rollers would help, liquid rollers work wonders. I for one wouldn't go to the trouble of adding full complent of rollers. I like the friction the pads give to keep the boat on the trailer. Having the ballast water out certainly helps too. I've used a Blaster water pump but the air pump works faster. MOre ideas? Or, has anyone moved their winch? Steve
Guys I haven't looked at the 26X,M trailer setup closely. I would suggest as has been done before here that the trailer winch is in the wrong place due to cost restraints at the Mfr. Moving the winch up and over the bow stop is the only thing I can think of that helps. In my case everytime I come out of the water the boat doesn't get pulled up far enough due to the winch cable angle. The old stop and bump works but not well with antilock brakes. I usually use the ramp which is large to slide the boat towards the stop. Driving down a good hill is another way to do it. Yes, rollers would help, liquid rollers work wonders. I for one wouldn't go to the trouble of adding full complent of rollers. I like the friction the pads give to keep the boat on the trailer. Having the ballast water out certainly helps too. I've used a Blaster water pump but the air pump works faster. MOre ideas? Or, has anyone moved their winch? Steve
raised winch
I raised the winch so it pulls in line with the bow eye, rather than down. It'll crank it right up to the stop now with dry bunks.
I raised the winch so it pulls in line with the bow eye, rather than down. It'll crank it right up to the stop now with dry bunks.
Sly Fox
Greg you sly fox, can you post a photo one of these days? Seems it would help a lot of people who own macs and have the "Not quite there yet" syndrome. Steve
Greg you sly fox, can you post a photo one of these days? Seems it would help a lot of people who own macs and have the "Not quite there yet" syndrome. Steve
Maybe Mac should move the wench up.
I will try the liq roller spray. If that doesn't work Im going to move the wench. Can't the Mac people even make a simple change in a wench location without being worried about getting sued by the older boat owners. They seem to be paranoid and don't make small changes.
I will try the liq roller spray. If that doesn't work Im going to move the wench. Can't the Mac people even make a simple change in a wench location without being worried about getting sued by the older boat owners. They seem to be paranoid and don't make small changes.
Same problem here!
I bought my 26X used. I have the same problem. I put quite a strain on the bow eye, when one time. I loaded the boat on a deep ramp with the bow in the bumper and slowly went up the ramp. The boat just seems to not want to rest in the bow rubber bumper stop.
I bought my 26X used. I have the same problem. I put quite a strain on the bow eye, when one time. I loaded the boat on a deep ramp with the bow in the bumper and slowly went up the ramp. The boat just seems to not want to rest in the bow rubber bumper stop.
I thought the X
I thought the X's trailer was a masterpiece in engineering, compared to my S. I'll post a pic, I should paint it first (now that the boat is off it) but I might not, just to get it done fast.
I thought the X's trailer was a masterpiece in engineering, compared to my S. I'll post a pic, I should paint it first (now that the boat is off it) but I might not, just to get it done fast.
I had that
problem the first time i loaded my M25. It was about 4 inches from where it should be. I tied it down and went home as I am not a fan of the quick stop method of moving a boat on the trailer. anyway, much to my suprise, within 3 miles of the boat launch the mac was all the way forward on the trailer. It had worked itself into the correct position. Since then, it had done the same thing every time. I am not sure if it is the stretch in the 2 inch web winch strap puling it fowrard or what does it. I always have the saftey chains in place. Chris
problem the first time i loaded my M25. It was about 4 inches from where it should be. I tied it down and went home as I am not a fan of the quick stop method of moving a boat on the trailer. anyway, much to my suprise, within 3 miles of the boat launch the mac was all the way forward on the trailer. It had worked itself into the correct position. Since then, it had done the same thing every time. I am not sure if it is the stretch in the 2 inch web winch strap puling it fowrard or what does it. I always have the saftey chains in place. Chris
Mine never did that
I always ended up getting paranoid and tieing it down with extra stuff. Now I have the winch higher, and tie down hooks on the trailer to keep the nose from bouncing around. But I also have a 15HP 4 stroke on the back. Too big I know, but it came with it.
I always ended up getting paranoid and tieing it down with extra stuff. Now I have the winch higher, and tie down hooks on the trailer to keep the nose from bouncing around. But I also have a 15HP 4 stroke on the back. Too big I know, but it came with it.
Mine loads, but
I use the patented MacGregor scoot. Once on dry, flat ground, build up some speed, and hit the brakes. With the bunk boards wet, and the boat slippery, it usually guides right into the nose of the trailer. I have a 15 HP on the back of mine too, and my problem is too little tougne wieght. I have to pack the V-Berth with all of my stuff, and keep my highway speed under 60 mph. One day I hope to get a tandum axle trailer, and have the wheels further back. I have a Vanson trailer that came with the boat, and I hate it. Plus I need to get a spare for it and I can't find one that fits on the axle. I could use some help with that.
I use the patented MacGregor scoot. Once on dry, flat ground, build up some speed, and hit the brakes. With the bunk boards wet, and the boat slippery, it usually guides right into the nose of the trailer. I have a 15 HP on the back of mine too, and my problem is too little tougne wieght. I have to pack the V-Berth with all of my stuff, and keep my highway speed under 60 mph. One day I hope to get a tandum axle trailer, and have the wheels further back. I have a Vanson trailer that came with the boat, and I hate it. Plus I need to get a spare for it and I can't find one that fits on the axle. I could use some help with that.
You've moved your axle back?
I moved my axle back and it tows great, on highways. Haven't done the interstate thing yet, so I don't know how I'll feel about being a traffic hazard. I go 65 no problem though. Now the probem is the tounge weight empty is too damn heavy to move the trailer around by hand, like I use to.... Or did you say a tandem with wheels further back...
I moved my axle back and it tows great, on highways. Haven't done the interstate thing yet, so I don't know how I'll feel about being a traffic hazard. I go 65 no problem though. Now the probem is the tounge weight empty is too damn heavy to move the trailer around by hand, like I use to.... Or did you say a tandem with wheels further back...
The bow stop
on my 26X is located where the boat will not come forward when loading from an even moderately sloped ramp. So Justin, you and I'm sure a lot of other Mac26X owners aren't alone, on getting the boat loaded all the way forward, maybe other than the 26X have the same problem. You can see in my picture how I ran the rope actually thru the rubber stop. The only way I could get the pull coming up instead of with the rope in the "V" of the stop. I want to change it the next time I have the boat off it. I'm thinking of having the stop cut off just above the wench, then having the welder put it back on about 9 to 10 inches below where the wench is now. I've had my boat about 3 years, and have yet to get it loaded all the way into the stop without the "Mac Bump" in the parking lot, or driving down a hill and hitting the truck brakes. How do you think the cutting, and repositioning will work, or are there any other sugestions out there?
on my 26X is located where the boat will not come forward when loading from an even moderately sloped ramp. So Justin, you and I'm sure a lot of other Mac26X owners aren't alone, on getting the boat loaded all the way forward, maybe other than the 26X have the same problem. You can see in my picture how I ran the rope actually thru the rubber stop. The only way I could get the pull coming up instead of with the rope in the "V" of the stop. I want to change it the next time I have the boat off it. I'm thinking of having the stop cut off just above the wench, then having the welder put it back on about 9 to 10 inches below where the wench is now. I've had my boat about 3 years, and have yet to get it loaded all the way into the stop without the "Mac Bump" in the parking lot, or driving down a hill and hitting the truck brakes. How do you think the cutting, and repositioning will work, or are there any other sugestions out there?
I have never
been a fan of the wet bunks, fast stop method of getting a boat fowrard on your trailer especially after I saw someone do it and the boat didn't stop when and where it sould have. (Let your imagination go with it and you will see what I saw.) Chris
been a fan of the wet bunks, fast stop method of getting a boat fowrard on your trailer especially after I saw someone do it and the boat didn't stop when and where it sould have. (Let your imagination go with it and you will see what I saw.) Chris
I agree with Chris...
I can winch right up to the stop with no problems...but, I'm a big fu--in' guy and the winch gives me a mechanical advantage...not like I'm pulling by hand. One of the things that has been talked about recently is blowing the ballast before hauling. That makes a huge difference and is worth the effort if you insist on whining about it. Check out the Coleman products...I have one of theirs...can't remember what they call it, but it is a low pressure, high volume air pump that's generally sold for pumping up inflatable rafts. You only need about 1 PSI to evacuate the ballast tank...displacement is the key to doing it quickly.
I can winch right up to the stop with no problems...but, I'm a big fu--in' guy and the winch gives me a mechanical advantage...not like I'm pulling by hand. One of the things that has been talked about recently is blowing the ballast before hauling. That makes a huge difference and is worth the effort if you insist on whining about it. Check out the Coleman products...I have one of theirs...can't remember what they call it, but it is a low pressure, high volume air pump that's generally sold for pumping up inflatable rafts. You only need about 1 PSI to evacuate the ballast tank...displacement is the key to doing it quickly.
Alternate to MacBump
There is another way of getting the boat fully forward that is not nearly as exciting. Just tighten it up as much as you can, have someone drive your vehicle about a foot ahead, then tighten the winch again. REPEAT 3 to 4 times and the boat will come right up to the block. Eric
There is another way of getting the boat fully forward that is not nearly as exciting. Just tighten it up as much as you can, have someone drive your vehicle about a foot ahead, then tighten the winch again. REPEAT 3 to 4 times and the boat will come right up to the block. Eric
No Trailer
My MAC trailer for 97 26X never ever seated right. Problem solved four weeks ago. Some body stole trailer (hehe)at boat ramp parking. Had galvanized trailer made, tandem axles, 13" tires, spare, telescoping tongue, padded bunkers, PVC guides, lights. Got boat on trailer yesterday and only need to lower bunks as boat sitting too high...boat sits into V and winch pulls it all the way up even with ballast loaded. B&G trailers, Deland, Florida made trailer at my cost of about $1200.00.
My MAC trailer for 97 26X never ever seated right. Problem solved four weeks ago. Some body stole trailer (hehe)at boat ramp parking. Had galvanized trailer made, tandem axles, 13" tires, spare, telescoping tongue, padded bunkers, PVC guides, lights. Got boat on trailer yesterday and only need to lower bunks as boat sitting too high...boat sits into V and winch pulls it all the way up even with ballast loaded. B&G trailers, Deland, Florida made trailer at my cost of about $1200.00.
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