The keel haul up cable on my 95 26s broke away leaving the keel shattered where it was attached. My plan was to jack the boat off the trailer a few feet to remove it for repair and reattach the cable. I removed the bolts to the water tank access cover (by the head door) only to find out that the cover is sealed solid and I don’t think I can get it off without cutting it out. I can’t tell if this was the work of a previous owner or the condition is from its manufacture. Can anyone lend some advice on this cover and keel bolt?
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Stephen Paul
Keel bolt access covers
I believe the cover is sealed with 3M 5200 or similar life-caulk. You should be able to knife your way through it and remove the cover. THe covers (there are two, one in the aisle and one in the battery compartement).It seems that if you can't remove the covers naturally then cut them out leaving the threads on the boat (outside threads) intact. These covers are used to allow access as you know and are the tops to the water ballest. Should be able to find replacement covers quite easily and seal them back the same way. We're all interested in your outcome for sure. Steve
I believe the cover is sealed with 3M 5200 or similar life-caulk. You should be able to knife your way through it and remove the cover. THe covers (there are two, one in the aisle and one in the battery compartement).It seems that if you can't remove the covers naturally then cut them out leaving the threads on the boat (outside threads) intact. These covers are used to allow access as you know and are the tops to the water ballest. Should be able to find replacement covers quite easily and seal them back the same way. We're all interested in your outcome for sure. Steve
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Mark Truscott
been there, done that
This was my first job after I bought my 26S. The leading edge of the centerboard and pounded against the trailer axle and gotten a hole in it. I jacked up and supported the trailer, dropped the axle and cut the center of the v-shaped 1/2" tube behind the axle away. I had to cut through the RT 5200 with a chisel I fashened out of an old industrial hack saw blade. After I got the covers off, I had new ones made out of 1/8" stainless steel, being carefull to keep the same hole pattern for the screws. If I had it to do again I would use Debond 2000, which does a great job of disolving RT5200. While the covers are off, I suggest you get neew gaskets for the centerboard bolt. I ordered them from MacGregor and ordered new ballast valve gaskets at the same time. Put the covers on with 5200, and made two pegs to fit in the 1/2" tube and bolted the whole back together. I reattached the axle and was good to go.
This was my first job after I bought my 26S. The leading edge of the centerboard and pounded against the trailer axle and gotten a hole in it. I jacked up and supported the trailer, dropped the axle and cut the center of the v-shaped 1/2" tube behind the axle away. I had to cut through the RT 5200 with a chisel I fashened out of an old industrial hack saw blade. After I got the covers off, I had new ones made out of 1/8" stainless steel, being carefull to keep the same hole pattern for the screws. If I had it to do again I would use Debond 2000, which does a great job of disolving RT5200. While the covers are off, I suggest you get neew gaskets for the centerboard bolt. I ordered them from MacGregor and ordered new ballast valve gaskets at the same time. Put the covers on with 5200, and made two pegs to fit in the 1/2" tube and bolted the whole back together. I reattached the axle and was good to go.
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Blake
keel boat access
Larry, I am considering the same proceedure on my boat. I have yet to start anything but would be very interested to hear what you end up doing. To Mark, your reply was cut off. If you have specific info on keel boat access, could you please resubmit?
Larry, I am considering the same proceedure on my boat. I have yet to start anything but would be very interested to hear what you end up doing. To Mark, your reply was cut off. If you have specific info on keel boat access, could you please resubmit?
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Larry G
Update
I have abandoned trying to get the keel bolt off. I was able to get the boat off the trailer about 3 feet and dig a hole so I could get the keel down far enough to work on the break. I placed two pieces of stainless on each side and attached the cable to a bolt through the center of the stainless. I’m not done yet because I’m trying to attach it with low profile bolts; I’m worried about the extra hardware hanging the keel up on the lake. I’ll do the best I can and work that thing up and down till I smooth the fiberglass out. Oh and I’ll re-paint the bottom while I have it on the blocks. I’m waiting for warmer weekend days... Look for a picture, I’ll attach one if I can get it uploaded.
I have abandoned trying to get the keel bolt off. I was able to get the boat off the trailer about 3 feet and dig a hole so I could get the keel down far enough to work on the break. I placed two pieces of stainless on each side and attached the cable to a bolt through the center of the stainless. I’m not done yet because I’m trying to attach it with low profile bolts; I’m worried about the extra hardware hanging the keel up on the lake. I’ll do the best I can and work that thing up and down till I smooth the fiberglass out. Oh and I’ll re-paint the bottom while I have it on the blocks. I’m waiting for warmer weekend days... Look for a picture, I’ll attach one if I can get it uploaded.
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steve Paul
Concerned about wear
Larry, nice work. I am concerned about the nyloc nuts sticking out so proud. My concern is they will cut your daggerboard box sides and you'll have hull problems. Could you find some stainless fasteners with flatter heads of different size and perhaps have them drilled and tapped? Then have them screw into each other and lock-tite them together. Then you'd have a lower profile on each side of the keelboard. Could even file or gind the corners smooth. I could draw you a picture I guess or maybe this will get someone with a better fastener idea to post for us. Good luck Steve
Larry, nice work. I am concerned about the nyloc nuts sticking out so proud. My concern is they will cut your daggerboard box sides and you'll have hull problems. Could you find some stainless fasteners with flatter heads of different size and perhaps have them drilled and tapped? Then have them screw into each other and lock-tite them together. Then you'd have a lower profile on each side of the keelboard. Could even file or gind the corners smooth. I could draw you a picture I guess or maybe this will get someone with a better fastener idea to post for us. Good luck Steve
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vwjon
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Larry G
reply to concerned
Exactly Steve, I did get some SS T-bolts at Ace Hardware, flat on the outside with the tap inward. I need to drill out the holes a little larger so I can install them. I will do some grinding but not to the point of weakening the bolt. Waiting for warmer days...
Exactly Steve, I did get some SS T-bolts at Ace Hardware, flat on the outside with the tap inward. I need to drill out the holes a little larger so I can install them. I will do some grinding but not to the point of weakening the bolt. Waiting for warmer days...
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Steve Paul
Good deal
Good deal, sounds like you're on it. Just didn't want you to have more damage. You may still want to work on those access ports. I believe if the boat has any age on it at all you'll want to re-do that keel boat and at least the gaskets. Steve
Good deal, sounds like you're on it. Just didn't want you to have more damage. You may still want to work on those access ports. I believe if the boat has any age on it at all you'll want to re-do that keel boat and at least the gaskets. Steve
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