On a 1980 23 oday, are the backing plates and nuts for the bow pulpit bolts accessible from the vee berth? Is a re-bed of the pulpit a doable project? A water leak requires the re bedding be done on haul out. Thanks for any guidance.
23 bow pulpit backing plate access
- Thread starter rogjack2
- Start date
Yes, you have to pull back some of the carpet and reglue it when you are done, but we were able to do ours without cutting anything out of the way. A small child is great to have to get a wrench on the nuts inside however.
The small child bit sounds awful, but it does make it easier, I did the same last year when re bedded everything. Sent my 8 year old inside to do the stern railing also.
Cost me a furby and a trip to the cinema
Cost me a furby and a trip to the cinema
Thanks
Thanks for the replies. I am not at the boat so trying to visualize the project. Are the nuts between the anchor locker wall and hull? Probably need to use the longer extension in the socket set. Are your outboards 22 or 26 inch shafts? I was thinking of putting a Tohatsu 6hp sail pro on. Any thoughts either way ? Do either of you use lazy jacks or furling jib or a dodger? Thanks in advance. Roger
Thanks for the replies. I am not at the boat so trying to visualize the project. Are the nuts between the anchor locker wall and hull? Probably need to use the longer extension in the socket set. Are your outboards 22 or 26 inch shafts? I was thinking of putting a Tohatsu 6hp sail pro on. Any thoughts either way ? Do either of you use lazy jacks or furling jib or a dodger? Thanks in advance. Roger
Yes in the front they are next too and in front of the anchor locker pan, as you go aft they are between the bottom of the deck and the fiberglass pan that comprises the ceiling. Take the triangle plywood piece out to gain better access in the bow.
As far as the outboard goes you will need the extra long shaft version to reach down far enough. Any sort of waves at all and the outboard comes out of the water. I have a old Johnson 9.9 (1980 two stroke) that runs like a charm. A 6 should be fine unless you will be sailing against currents and or head winds at the same time.
We do not have lazy jacks or a doger. Furling jib we added and love it. I would highly recomend the furler. Hope that helps.
Using a Merc 6hp with no issues, definitely get the longest shaft you can, minimum 20"
Roller furling jib is without doubt, the way to go if short handed, some will argue you lose a little in flexibility, but on a oday 23, who cares
I do use lazy jacks as I single hand almost always.
Really makes life easier for me.
Roller furling jib is without doubt, the way to go if short handed, some will argue you lose a little in flexibility, but on a oday 23, who cares
I do use lazy jacks as I single hand almost always.
Really makes life easier for me.
drancis23, what do you mean by losing flexibility with a furler? Do you mean you can't use a smaller jib? (My understanding is that you don't want to use a jib furler for reefing.) So what do you do in heavy weather if you've reefed the main, and you still are getting overpowered? Will the boat sail OK under main alone? (I've heard that masthead rigs tend to go into irons with no headsail.) I'm looking for an O'Day 23, and am wondering if I should be insisting on or trying to avoid a furler on a used boat. 23's seem to be hard to find; any suggestions for an alternative?
I run a 150% on my furler and reef using it, not had issues, but then have not been in really heavy wind either.
The flexibility issue I understand is that the sail position is higher than desired, for optimum sail trim, but my feeling is that on a boat like that, who cares, just sail and enjoy
The flexibility issue I understand is that the sail position is higher than desired, for optimum sail trim, but my feeling is that on a boat like that, who cares, just sail and enjoy
My 23 has a non-reefing furler. I can sail with a reefed main and a full 130% genoa up to about 15 knots of wind (that's with gusts at a little over 20). Beyond that, I'll sail with just the main. It's sluggish, but if you tack quickly, it will stay out of irons.
With a reefing furler, if you don't have a foam luff, the headsail loses its shape.
With a reefing furler, if you don't have a foam luff, the headsail loses its shape.
That makes sense. On my little O'Day Day Sailer, I had our local sailmaker cut down an old jib to use as a heavy-weather sail. He suggested mounting it off the deck (essentially at the same height as when it was full, except now the bottom 25% was missing). His argument was that this is where storm jibs usually fly, the expectation being that at deck level in a storm, the sail could be hit by a breaking wave. Also, by keeping the peak at the same height, the standard turning blocks for the sheets were more or less still in the right position. After trying it a couple of times, I mounted the tack right to the stemhead, just like the working jib. The sail trimmed a lot better, although I did have to provide new turning blocks forward and inboard on the cabin top.