i have 22ft cat am 75 years old any comments if a hunter would be easier to sail over my 22 ft catalina?any benifits or more knots of speed.
22cat verses 24 hunter
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What Hunter?
I would say that a smaller headsail, or none at all, would be an advantage. When you said "cat" boat I was thinking Cat boats not a Catalina. But I think something like a Sanderling or similar design would be a very good platform for you.
As for your question: Either boat would have similar speed if they were about the same waterline length. As for ease of sail I would favor the Cat boat style, because there is no jib to tack. For ease of sail I think that style of boat is a winner.
I would say that a smaller headsail, or none at all, would be an advantage. When you said "cat" boat I was thinking Cat boats not a Catalina. But I think something like a Sanderling or similar design would be a very good platform for you.
As for your question: Either boat would have similar speed if they were about the same waterline length. As for ease of sail I would favor the Cat boat style, because there is no jib to tack. For ease of sail I think that style of boat is a winner.
I think if I were going to get a more "manageable" day boat, the Oday Mariner might be it. I can think of little reason to jump from Catalina to Hunter, there's little difference in my opinion..
Hey if you feel like you need a change go for it. The cabin of the h24 will be more accomodating. Just make sure you get up to speed about the do's and dont's of Water Ballast.
I have had both of those boats. The Hunter has a MUCH larger cabin and if equiped with a roller furling it would be easier to sail in my opinion. The water ballast won't be a problem as the boat isn't that much more tender that the C22. They both firm up before 15 degrees unless you want speed. If speed is your desire then the Catalina 22 can be made scaldingly quick.
I'm close to 70 and went up to a San Juan 23 from a Catalina 22 just for the larger cabin and headroom. It is also is a higher performance craft with additional sails and that part is still fun.
We can't take anything with us so let's enjoy life's pleasures now
Ray
I'm close to 70 and went up to a San Juan 23 from a Catalina 22 just for the larger cabin and headroom. It is also is a higher performance craft with additional sails and that part is still fun.
We can't take anything with us so let's enjoy life's pleasures now
Ray
Ray i am 74 and i love my 1987 22 ft catalina,what can i do to make it scalding quick as i would love to pass the 25 and 27 ft catalinas, i have a swing keel Thanks Ray
Ray, we had a C22 for a few years before we moved up to a C25 and then our C34 in 1998.
The two best things we ever did with our C22 were:
1. Led the halyards aft and installed a downhaul on the jib - I didn't bother with the baseplate under the mast, just installed two spring loaded standup Shaffer blocks near the base of the mast to turn the halyards back.
2. Bought Winchers to make the winches essentially self-tailing, and still permitted cross sheeting if you like that feature
We also made the mid-cabin bed shelf to avoid having to sleep in the V berth. We anchored out all the time because the marina at Clear Lake in California wouldn't allow overnight stays on your boat. Taught us a LOT!
Great boats.
Moving up to the C25 essentially DOUBLED our room, and the traditional layout on that boat made a huge difference compared to the dinette layouts of either the C22 of that vintage (1981) or even the C25 (also 1981).
Keep the boat unless you want to "start over" in fixing thingsa to get the way YOU like them to be.
Good luck.
The two best things we ever did with our C22 were:
1. Led the halyards aft and installed a downhaul on the jib - I didn't bother with the baseplate under the mast, just installed two spring loaded standup Shaffer blocks near the base of the mast to turn the halyards back.
2. Bought Winchers to make the winches essentially self-tailing, and still permitted cross sheeting if you like that feature
We also made the mid-cabin bed shelf to avoid having to sleep in the V berth. We anchored out all the time because the marina at Clear Lake in California wouldn't allow overnight stays on your boat. Taught us a LOT!
Great boats.
Moving up to the C25 essentially DOUBLED our room, and the traditional layout on that boat made a huge difference compared to the dinette layouts of either the C22 of that vintage (1981) or even the C25 (also 1981).
Keep the boat unless you want to "start over" in fixing thingsa to get the way YOU like them to be.
Good luck.
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Ray i am 74 plus have 1987 22 ft catalina swing keel ny tips would be appreciated to make it scalding quick i would love to be able to breeze by the 25 and 27 ft catalina ,Larry
19jib39 and Stu, These are many of the changes and add-on I did on my 1980 C22.
1. The very first and probably the most important item was to buy a Loos Tension gauge and tune the rigging. The wire tensions are 10% of the breaking load and is easy to find these numbers or I can help later. Tune the first time, sail her hard a couple of times and re-tune. Then tune yearly or when there is a noticeble slackness in the shrouds. I have 4 foot PVC 1" tubing with caps slid over the shrouds to protect the sails.
2. Run lines aft to cockpit or at least to the cabin top rear. Sheets and halyards. Downhaul, Cunningham, outhaul and topping lift.
3. I had the standard equipment 2 foot jib sheet tract and sheeves. I added an additional 4 foot tract to the inside of the OEM tract' overlapping 1 foot and the remaining 3 feet was in front of it. I had 4 tract cars.
4. I had hank-on sails, they were a 110% jib in good condition, a new Ulman 150% jenny and a new Ulman loose footed, full battened main and a 170% drifter. All sails must have multipule telltails. The main too.
The toppinglift, cunninghan, downhaul and outhaul all had stoppers or line locks mounted on the cabin roof rear. The down haul was just to drop the jib or jenny when the wind was so high that the sail was pinned to the forestay. Secondly, the topping lift is a life saver. If I got in trouble with big wind, very rough seas or both I could simply pull the topping lift line and it raised the boom by at least 1 foot above level. Now I would lock the tiller straight ahead and drop the headsail with the downhaul. It also allowed reefing the main if needed. The boat would do lazy, fairly tight circles and drift downwind while doing this. I could work without worrying about the boat. I know all about heaving too and have done it many times in other boats (over 23 feet), yet this is the fastest way to stablize and work on the boat. Try it and you will be surprised. I teach this trick to all the new sailors I teach to sail. This is one of the very first lessons so they can stop when they are over their heads and scared. A fast bit of safety while regrouping.
The loose footed main is the best sail I ever bought but MUST be flown with a good hand on the outhaul.
Next, mark the mid point of each headsail on the luff, hoist the sail and stand back with the boat on the trailer or where-ever and draw a line in your head from this midpoint down through the clew and continue straight to the jib car tract. This is exactly where the jib car sheeve should be as a starting point when using a headsail. I actually used string to do this. All adjustments start from here.
Go buy a very good book on sail trim. The best books I fould were "Mainsail trimming" by Felix Marks. He also has one on headsails but that copy is on the boat so I can't give the exact name. These are VERY GOOD trimming guides.
I sail solo 98% of the time so an inflatable vest and a 6 foot lanyard are mandatory. I also trail a 50 foot line if it is ugly out there.
Enough for now. More later if needed.
Stu, we slept in the cockpit or in a tent on the shoreline. Also, C25's and most times C27's are fish bait for a good C22.
Ray
1. The very first and probably the most important item was to buy a Loos Tension gauge and tune the rigging. The wire tensions are 10% of the breaking load and is easy to find these numbers or I can help later. Tune the first time, sail her hard a couple of times and re-tune. Then tune yearly or when there is a noticeble slackness in the shrouds. I have 4 foot PVC 1" tubing with caps slid over the shrouds to protect the sails.
2. Run lines aft to cockpit or at least to the cabin top rear. Sheets and halyards. Downhaul, Cunningham, outhaul and topping lift.
3. I had the standard equipment 2 foot jib sheet tract and sheeves. I added an additional 4 foot tract to the inside of the OEM tract' overlapping 1 foot and the remaining 3 feet was in front of it. I had 4 tract cars.
4. I had hank-on sails, they were a 110% jib in good condition, a new Ulman 150% jenny and a new Ulman loose footed, full battened main and a 170% drifter. All sails must have multipule telltails. The main too.
The toppinglift, cunninghan, downhaul and outhaul all had stoppers or line locks mounted on the cabin roof rear. The down haul was just to drop the jib or jenny when the wind was so high that the sail was pinned to the forestay. Secondly, the topping lift is a life saver. If I got in trouble with big wind, very rough seas or both I could simply pull the topping lift line and it raised the boom by at least 1 foot above level. Now I would lock the tiller straight ahead and drop the headsail with the downhaul. It also allowed reefing the main if needed. The boat would do lazy, fairly tight circles and drift downwind while doing this. I could work without worrying about the boat. I know all about heaving too and have done it many times in other boats (over 23 feet), yet this is the fastest way to stablize and work on the boat. Try it and you will be surprised. I teach this trick to all the new sailors I teach to sail. This is one of the very first lessons so they can stop when they are over their heads and scared. A fast bit of safety while regrouping.
The loose footed main is the best sail I ever bought but MUST be flown with a good hand on the outhaul.
Next, mark the mid point of each headsail on the luff, hoist the sail and stand back with the boat on the trailer or where-ever and draw a line in your head from this midpoint down through the clew and continue straight to the jib car tract. This is exactly where the jib car sheeve should be as a starting point when using a headsail. I actually used string to do this. All adjustments start from here.
Go buy a very good book on sail trim. The best books I fould were "Mainsail trimming" by Felix Marks. He also has one on headsails but that copy is on the boat so I can't give the exact name. These are VERY GOOD trimming guides.
I sail solo 98% of the time so an inflatable vest and a 6 foot lanyard are mandatory. I also trail a 50 foot line if it is ugly out there.
Enough for now. More later if needed.
Stu, we slept in the cockpit or in a tent on the shoreline. Also, C25's and most times C27's are fish bait for a good C22.
Ray
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