22 swing keel

[armesy1954]

Newbe to Hunters here, my '81 was toppled from its trailer by one of Florida's hurricanes and the P.O. 'fixed' it by making it a fixed keel. Has anyone sailed a 22 like this? Where may I obtain a blueprint to restore it to the original configuration?
The poor thing hasn't seen water in over four years and is in serious need of TLC. I'm hoping I can sail and clean, and clean and sail, while bringing her back to pristine shape.
All opinions are welcome.
Thanks,
Tim

 

[Ed Schenck]

That would seem like a major undertaking. The problem is that most H22s are on trailers. That makes it hard to get under one to see how it works. I have been looking at a friend's to add to my fleet. But I have never examined the drop baord keel closely. Here is a link to a PDF that is posted in the "Hunter Owners Mods" under the "Boat Info" tab: http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/images/kb/pdf/783.pdf . It contains a sketch of the mechanism. You might want to check out the other entries also.

 

[armesy1954]

Thanks, I have downloaded the owners manual and have indeed found additional posts on this subject. I will pressure wash the bottom paint around the keel and see if I can figure out what was done. I am still very curious about the sailing qualities, do you suppose it will act as if the board is just retracted?...

 

[Ed Schenck]

Where is the boat? If it is sitting normally on the trailer then there is no keel, just the stub. It would not sail well at all. Somehow you need to get the boat up on stands where you can work to get the centerboard swinging. Hopefully it was not damaged so badly that the p.o. simply glassed it over.

 

[armesy1954]

Guess what? the centerboard bottom is glassed over. Removing the paint from the area has revealed a pretty shoddy repair as well as some curious looking 'cracks / striations' on the side that took the fall. Inside, multiple fracture points in the liner. and; on each side of the centerboard housing are there two wells covered by floor boards? This one has what appears to be cement paving blocks installed???
Should I cry yet?

 

[scott21050]

This sounds bad. Without seeing a picture of it, I am sure you still have the centerboard well intact, and just glassed over. A good fiberglass man might be your next step. You will at least have to rebuild the centerboard attach point and that might be some work for someone with out experance. At least you can get an idea of the cost and he might work with you on it.

Good Luck,

Scott

 

[armesy1954]

I figure I'll need to get out the die grinder and open the bottom of the keel. Does anyone have access to the prints for this? And was my assumptsion correct, there's not supposed to be paving blocks as ballast weight?

 

[megaboat2003]

As cheap as these 22's are, I'd forego this one. I've seen 2 in our area given away. You may want to keep anything good and look for a hull in decent shape, I'd be happy to scour N. Florida for a cheap hull. Sounds like a huge project to me. I own a H22, it's a good little boat, but there are tons of good little boats out there, and it's buyer's market. Hope this helps.

 

[armesy1954]

Thanks for your support, but I would like an answer to the two questions I've put forth;
1. Does Hunter use the two compartments on either side of the cb housing for ballast?
2. Where can I obtain blue prints so I can configure the well and (if I have to), make a new keel?
Merry Christmas all.

 

[megaboat2003]

The H22 carries it's ballast internally, it's lead and it's about 900 lbs worth. No, Hunter didn't use paver blocks. The lead is placed beside the centerboard trunk on both sides, I don't know how far fore and aft the ballast extends, the sole covers everything up, but the placement fore and aft affects the balance of the boat...you'd need to keep the boat on it's designed waterline, neither bow-up or bow-down. As for drawings for the trunk, can't help you. And I doubt Hunter can help, but it's worth a try. Good luck. If you'll send me an e-mail address, I'll see if I can find a good hull cheap. My e-mail is: mdlivelyinnr@cox.net

 

[armesy1954]

OK, thanks! that's one question down and confirmed. I did some probing this morning and found the 'concrete blocks' are indeed lead. They fill both cavities. I guess I am surprised at the slap dash looking finish of the adhesive, perhaps I thought a higher quality finish would be appropriate from the manufacture. Of course the lead is covered by the sole boards.
I already have a 'cheap hull', and this one will be put the way it is supposed to be to sail again. I will indeed get a hold of Hunter the factory and see who I can sweet talk into digging out the old prints for me. This is the hardest and most tedious part, acquiring the correct data to repair the problem. I'll print the pictures of the cb on this list and scale them to fabricate a new piece, and the pivot point looks like it won't be much of a problem since it appears to be a wear point and does have some info on it. So I feel I'm pretty close, just want the original data to confirm the theory and have a guideline for the build.
If anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears, and I'll keep you posted with pictures and prose as I progress. The object here is to sail.
Tim

 

[scott21050]

Have you removed you table in the cabin? Once you do you will be able to see more what you have to work with. You will be able see in the C/B housing and better view the damage done. Also on each side of the table inboard of the led ballast there are 2 holes that the C/B hinge mounted to.


Again Good luck,

Scott

 

[armesy1954]

OK, got the table out and can see a pulley,(worse for wear), and an 1/8" cut cable. The slot on either side of the housing has water and algae, and I didn't bring my flash light. I did probe around the opening an came up with a SS bracket and nut, I guess that's worth something...
Unfortunately, my vehicles have decided they want some attention, so I'll be twisting wrenches for the next couple of days. I'll keep you updated on my finds.
Tim