216 Bottom Cleanup, Prep, and Antifouling

[Paul Wash]

Hi everyone, hate to post a mundane topic but it seems it is the time of year for such. We've done a lot with our 216 except for bottom paint/anti fouling. Our 216 lives in the water year round.

The previous owners anti fouling has lasted well into this year from 2004. But, now there are barnacles/slime/etc. more than in previous years..so its time.

I am not sure if the protocol for an ACP boat is the same as a fiberglass/gelcoat boat. I have access to the resources to do what needs to be done, just unsure of sanding regimen and application regimen. Sand blast? Rotary sander? Paint scraper? How to prep the bottom? Type of anti fouling? Number of coats, etc?

Any advice from the 216 crowd or other acp owners is appreciated. Is there a difference in antifouling regimen for acp vs gelcoat or is it the same.

Thanks.
Paul.

 

[Ray T]

If my 216 didn't live on a trailer I would contact hunter. As soft as ACP is I wouldn't think an abrasive would be the way to go. Maybe a wash of some type? I would contact hunter first.

 

[bloomac]

My Hunter already had bottom paint professionally applied before I got it. However, I coated it with Interlux Micron CSC with Biocide and it works great. Went with Shark White to eliminate any heat buildup. Pricey, but effective and eliminates a potential paint buildup problem. You will want to thin it out first though and use a West Systems bottom paint roller. Otherwise it will go on too thick and won't be so hydrodynamic.
Should take about 1 quart of paint. $75 at West Marine


Take a look at the manual and it tells you how to do it.

Here is what it says.

If you are going to leave your Hunter 216 in the water, you may want to consider an ani-
fouling paint on the bottom for protection against barnacles and other marine growth.

The waterline for the Hunter 216 can be found by measuring down from 5 points
on the boat. For each point use a flexible measuring tape and measure along the
contour of the hull from the bottom of the rub-rail. This point will indicate the
actual waterline (where the water hits the boat). You may want your paint line an
inch or two higher.


1) Bow Cleat – 33 ¼”
2) Cabin/Deck Joint Line – 33 ½”
3) Chain Plates – 31”
4) Main Sheet – 30”
5) Stern Cleat – 41 ¼”


The first step to adding bottom paint to the 216 is to scuff sand the bottom surface
of the boat below the waterline. Next wipe down the area with denatured alcohol
to remove wax and dust from sanding. Finally, paint the boat with Interlux
Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT. We only recommend Interlux’s Gray White color.

If the boat is going to be left in the water the centerboard and centerboard trunk
should also be painted. To access the centerboard for painting, you can either
hoist the boat and drop the centerboard, or remove the centerboard from the boat.
To remove the centerboard, unscrew the 8 stainless screws securing the
centerboard frame to the boat (in the cockpit). Using a hoist carefully raise the
complete centerboard cartridge from the boat. The centerboard is solid lead and is
already primed with a suitable primer.

 

[Lee C - H31]

I also need to clean and re-paint the bottom of my H216. The manual addresses the first painting, but not subsequent cleaning and paintin.

 

[Paul Wash]

I contacted Hunter and their response is simple.

First: Remove all growth, slime, barnacles with a standard paint scraper being sure to not scratch or puncture the ACP. This will initially take you down to the paint or the surface depending on the state of the existing paint.

Second: Using an orbital hand sander - 100 grit - gently sand the existing paint down, gently scuffing the original bottom to provide a good paintable surface. New paint will not adhere well to old paint. Do not apply uneven pressure nor remain in one location with the sander. Use circular motions. Be sure to wear a respirator. Pay attention to hull integrity!

Third: Prep and cleanse the bottom. For an a repaint keep note of the original lines if that worked for you. Frog tape it up to get your lines. Apply 1 - 2 coats as needed. Follow insturctions for thorough drying before moving blocks or returning to the water.

Fourth: The Centerboard is lead. It had primer when it left the factory so you need to inspect the centerboard prime and determine if additional priming is needed. Adequately sand and apply the coats. (See note in previous thread regarding hoisting). FYI hoisting the centerboard out of the trunk is not something most yards are willing to do without a substantial charge. It is dangerous and difficult. Better off hauling the boat with the board lowered. I had my centerboard hoisted out of the boat when the cable needed repair and they cited numerous risks with the job. Try picking up a 500 lb flat board vertically with nothing to grab onto without resting it on the deck...

Overall, go slow and pay attention to what you are doing. Uneven sanding or harmful scraping is not good. Mine is planned for March and I am hoisting her out for a month. Leaving 2 full weekends for the job depending how many people help.

 

[Lee C - H31]

Thanks for the update Paul.

na