Hello again! All have been very helpful. I really enjoy this post and find it a great resource so far. I saw that one new 25' owner had connected his rudder to the OB motor so they turn in unison. Is this the way ALL of the new 25s should be? I think it would drastically help ours because if the wind is AT ALL on the starboard side, she will NOT turn to starboard under power in time to avoid collisions with other boats in the marina. We have resorted to using spring lines to get out of our slip when the wind is high, lest we slam into our neighbors [again] and lose another shroud! But I digress. . . So about that steering rod. . .
2006 Hunter 25 OB steering rod
- Thread starter TCA
- Start date
- Status
Here is the one I plan to use
I plan to use this one to do that job. http://www.amazon.com/Panther-Auxiliary-Steering-Stainless-Steel/dp/B000FGRTYY/sr=1-13/qid=1161721941/ref=sr_1_13/102-9791568-3228116?ie=UTF8&m=A19XE0CFLN81HP&s=sporting-goods However, I have a yamaha 8 hp motor on my boat(love the motor), with remote controls mounted in the cockpit. It has cables for the throttle and the shifter. Unfortunately for me, the shifter cable is too short to allow the motor to turn freely in both directions. I have to get a longer cable before setting up the steering linkage.
I plan to use this one to do that job. http://www.amazon.com/Panther-Auxiliary-Steering-Stainless-Steel/dp/B000FGRTYY/sr=1-13/qid=1161721941/ref=sr_1_13/102-9791568-3228116?ie=UTF8&m=A19XE0CFLN81HP&s=sporting-goods However, I have a yamaha 8 hp motor on my boat(love the motor), with remote controls mounted in the cockpit. It has cables for the throttle and the shifter. Unfortunately for me, the shifter cable is too short to allow the motor to turn freely in both directions. I have to get a longer cable before setting up the steering linkage.
Oh, I see, sort of. . .
I looked at the link but unfortunately the picture, even enlarged, would take an atomic microscope to look at. We have the Tohatsu [nissan] 9.8 and have controls mounted just inside the stern-starboard side of the cockpit. . . basically at the right foot of the helmsman. I'd much prefer them on the binnacle, but oh well. . . So this kit is basically a piece of metal that hooks the rudder to the plate on the motor that controls which way it moves? I know the cables of which you speak and I think we have plenty [too much] extra. Thanks, Jeff! I'll look for your progress and post mine as well!
I looked at the link but unfortunately the picture, even enlarged, would take an atomic microscope to look at. We have the Tohatsu [nissan] 9.8 and have controls mounted just inside the stern-starboard side of the cockpit. . . basically at the right foot of the helmsman. I'd much prefer them on the binnacle, but oh well. . . So this kit is basically a piece of metal that hooks the rudder to the plate on the motor that controls which way it moves? I know the cables of which you speak and I think we have plenty [too much] extra. Thanks, Jeff! I'll look for your progress and post mine as well!
Steering Linkage
Fantastic! Thanks VT Fitz. . . I know that the 25 looks a little different at the stern than the 23.5, but i get the idea and look forward to a fun experiment! Gosh darnit this blog is neat-o [g-rated version of what I was really thinking]!
Fantastic! Thanks VT Fitz. . . I know that the 25 looks a little different at the stern than the 23.5, but i get the idea and look forward to a fun experiment! Gosh darnit this blog is neat-o [g-rated version of what I was really thinking]!
Appears to be a good solution, but..
This looks like it would be a good idea and easy to do. As best I could tell the Panther is very similar to Ron Mehringer's solution. There is almost no information on their site or any where else, so it's hard to tell if it would be an easy install or not. I am curious if anyone has done this, does it affect the range of motion for the boat tiller? Does having the outboard continually connected add to the tiller pressure/work when sailing? It seems that when an outboard is up, when you move it from side to side, once it passes the 1/2 way point then the weight of the motor wants to pull it down. It seems to want to lay on one side or the other. Does this weight add pressure to the tiller?
This looks like it would be a good idea and easy to do. As best I could tell the Panther is very similar to Ron Mehringer's solution. There is almost no information on their site or any where else, so it's hard to tell if it would be an easy install or not. I am curious if anyone has done this, does it affect the range of motion for the boat tiller? Does having the outboard continually connected add to the tiller pressure/work when sailing? It seems that when an outboard is up, when you move it from side to side, once it passes the 1/2 way point then the weight of the motor wants to pull it down. It seems to want to lay on one side or the other. Does this weight add pressure to the tiller?
VT Fitz's fix
i just purchased a 3' length of 3/16 round steel. I intend to install it so it can be disconnected once we are out of the "tight spaces" for which "motor motion" will be helpful. i'll update this with some digital pictures by Monday. I should get a good test run as the wind is set to be out of the east: the direction that gives me problems [or south].
i just purchased a 3' length of 3/16 round steel. I intend to install it so it can be disconnected once we are out of the "tight spaces" for which "motor motion" will be helpful. i'll update this with some digital pictures by Monday. I should get a good test run as the wind is set to be out of the east: the direction that gives me problems [or south].
Link your motor and rudder
Look at the archives. This is an age-old issue with Hunter. They ought to make it part of the commissioning of every boat. I had my marina guy do it and he knew exactly what to order and who to order it from. The mechanism I had installed is simplicity itself. Mine wasn't an Easy-Steer, which I'm sure is a fine product as well. Mine may be a Panther. Do it before you hurt your equipment or worse, someone else's. You won't regret it. I couldn't return to my slip in a starboard turn until I got the connection. Make sure you get the quick disconnect type that allows you to remove at least on end of the rod when under sail. You get a restricted range of motion when in a tight tack so you want to sail with it disconnected. When you are under power you don't need as tight a turn and the link to the motor is a godsend.
Look at the archives. This is an age-old issue with Hunter. They ought to make it part of the commissioning of every boat. I had my marina guy do it and he knew exactly what to order and who to order it from. The mechanism I had installed is simplicity itself. Mine wasn't an Easy-Steer, which I'm sure is a fine product as well. Mine may be a Panther. Do it before you hurt your equipment or worse, someone else's. You won't regret it. I couldn't return to my slip in a starboard turn until I got the connection. Make sure you get the quick disconnect type that allows you to remove at least on end of the rod when under sail. You get a restricted range of motion when in a tight tack so you want to sail with it disconnected. When you are under power you don't need as tight a turn and the link to the motor is a godsend.
It's Ron M's solution, not mine!
Thanks for the credit, TCS, but I just came up with the link, not the fix! Also, let me point out his solution was designed for the 26, not the 23.5. Definitely would want to disconnect it when not needed. For starters, once the engine comes up, it would probably mess up the mechanism a bit, & it would make the helm much more difficult to leave the engine down, not to mention needless drag. We're stepping up from an 18.5 footer we've sailed the last 3 seasons, & we didn't have much trouble with her in tight spots, but we'll definitely look to add a system like this to our 23.5. Thanks a big-time ouchy, TCS. You were lucky it wasn't worse, indeed.
Thanks for the credit, TCS, but I just came up with the link, not the fix! Also, let me point out his solution was designed for the 26, not the 23.5. Definitely would want to disconnect it when not needed. For starters, once the engine comes up, it would probably mess up the mechanism a bit, & it would make the helm much more difficult to leave the engine down, not to mention needless drag. We're stepping up from an 18.5 footer we've sailed the last 3 seasons, & we didn't have much trouble with her in tight spots, but we'll definitely look to add a system like this to our 23.5. Thanks a big-time ouchy, TCS. You were lucky it wasn't worse, indeed.
This came up a while back
I modified an area Hunter 25 and here is the link to that. http://archives.sailboatowners.com/pviewarch.htm?fno=0&sku=2006163142129.53&id=403220&ptl=Rudder%20Mod%20for%20the%20New%20H%2025&id=403220
I modified an area Hunter 25 and here is the link to that. http://archives.sailboatowners.com/pviewarch.htm?fno=0&sku=2006163142129.53&id=403220&ptl=Rudder%20Mod%20for%20the%20New%20H%2025&id=403220
FItz's H23.5 to be
I have it on my list to look at adding a link to my H23.5, but unlike the H26 and several other boats, on the H23.5 the outboard's tiller/throttle is easily accessible while sitting in the cockpit handling the rudder/tiller. I have to make 2 extremely tight 180 degree turns to get to my slip, but I'm able to just turn the outboard with one hand and the tiller with the other. I have the swivel tension such that I can do this, but firm enough that the engine stays straight when motoring. What I'm trying to say is that it's easy enough to do that I haven't been inspired to bother with the linkage. I know that on other boats such as the H26 it's nearly impossible to reach the engine without taking your eyes off the road. I haven't made any measurements, but I suspect that I may be able to turn sharper this way because I can get full deflection on both the engine and the rudder, whereas when they are linked one may well restrict the full movement of the other. ...RickM...
I have it on my list to look at adding a link to my H23.5, but unlike the H26 and several other boats, on the H23.5 the outboard's tiller/throttle is easily accessible while sitting in the cockpit handling the rudder/tiller. I have to make 2 extremely tight 180 degree turns to get to my slip, but I'm able to just turn the outboard with one hand and the tiller with the other. I have the swivel tension such that I can do this, but firm enough that the engine stays straight when motoring. What I'm trying to say is that it's easy enough to do that I haven't been inspired to bother with the linkage. I know that on other boats such as the H26 it's nearly impossible to reach the engine without taking your eyes off the road. I haven't made any measurements, but I suspect that I may be able to turn sharper this way because I can get full deflection on both the engine and the rudder, whereas when they are linked one may well restrict the full movement of the other. ...RickM...
Simpler is better
I was sitting on the stern of my boat when a guy approached the transient dock across from me in an older, 24' boat. He got very close to where he had to make a very tight port turn when he reached down, grabbed his outboard with both hands and rotated it perfectly to the point where his fenders just gently touched the side of the dock as he landed. He was about my age, late 50's and had probably had that same boat for it's entire life and knew every nuance. I had my newly installed motor linkage but I would have traded it in a second for that man's boat handling capability. He had my instant respect.
I was sitting on the stern of my boat when a guy approached the transient dock across from me in an older, 24' boat. He got very close to where he had to make a very tight port turn when he reached down, grabbed his outboard with both hands and rotated it perfectly to the point where his fenders just gently touched the side of the dock as he landed. He was about my age, late 50's and had probably had that same boat for it's entire life and knew every nuance. I had my newly installed motor linkage but I would have traded it in a second for that man's boat handling capability. He had my instant respect.
Good point, Rick
I guess I'm being a bit premature on what we may or may not look to do for improvements/upgrades. The PO's pictures we saw of our 23.5 in action showed just what you say, Rick: how easy it is to reach the engine. In practice, after we've gotten to know our new girl a little bit, we may find other areas to concentrate our efforts. Of course, living in VT, we won't be exploring those things until next June at the earliest!
Kevin Fitzpatrick Brownsville, VT Hunter 23.5 Name TBD
I guess I'm being a bit premature on what we may or may not look to do for improvements/upgrades. The PO's pictures we saw of our 23.5 in action showed just what you say, Rick: how easy it is to reach the engine. In practice, after we've gotten to know our new girl a little bit, we may find other areas to concentrate our efforts. Of course, living in VT, we won't be exploring those things until next June at the earliest!
Kevin Fitzpatrick Brownsville, VT Hunter 23.5 Name TBDwe've got a steering rod now!
I don't have pics yet, but we took an 8-10 inch piece of pvc that sits in the channel where the temp. tiller goes and connected it with a steel rod to the motor. i practised with TCA at about 3.5 knots and turning her hard to port/starboard and WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! although the wind was low, this should make getting into/out of the slip much easier AND safer. pics to come. . .
I don't have pics yet, but we took an 8-10 inch piece of pvc that sits in the channel where the temp. tiller goes and connected it with a steel rod to the motor. i practised with TCA at about 3.5 knots and turning her hard to port/starboard and WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! although the wind was low, this should make getting into/out of the slip much easier AND safer. pics to come. . .
Can't wait to see the pictures
Glad you got it done. Can wait to see the pictures. Does it allow you to raise the motor without taking it loose. My Yamaha has electric tilt and I want to be able to keep the steering rod coupler attached with the engine in the up or down position.
Glad you got it done. Can wait to see the pictures. Does it allow you to raise the motor without taking it loose. My Yamaha has electric tilt and I want to be able to keep the steering rod coupler attached with the engine in the up or down position.
unfortunately not. . .
we have used the pin that connects the temp tiller to keep the pvc in place until we are ready to lift the motor. . . which we have to do by hand and is a pain in the arse since there's nowhere to put your feet with all the outboard "junk" in the way. but the rod is easily installed/removed since we just use that "quick release" pin [or whatever the technical name is for it]. so how come you have electric tilt on your motor? did you do that yourself??
we have used the pin that connects the temp tiller to keep the pvc in place until we are ready to lift the motor. . . which we have to do by hand and is a pain in the arse since there's nowhere to put your feet with all the outboard "junk" in the way. but the rod is easily installed/removed since we just use that "quick release" pin [or whatever the technical name is for it]. so how come you have electric tilt on your motor? did you do that yourself??
also. . .
where is the source of your cat-bird rail/seat cushions and life line covers that i see in your photos on the owner's forum?
where is the source of your cat-bird rail/seat cushions and life line covers that i see in your photos on the owner's forum?
I had a yamaha installed when I bought my boat
TCA, I had a Yamaha 8hp 4 stroke high thrust extra long shaft with electric tilt installed when I bought my boat from the dealer. The controls are mounted down near the cockpit floor by where my right foot is if sitting on the helmsman seat. The motor was probably a bit more expensive than the tohatsu, but worth in in my opinion. It's just so nice to raise the motor by hitting a button, instead of having to physically do it. That means that I always sail with the motor out of the water. I think its usually good for another half knot of speed, maybe more in light wind. All the cushions came from the chandlery here on this site. I have a full set of the sunsure seat cushions, including the stern rail seats. The backrests for the stern rail and the lifeline cushions are covered in navy sunbrella. The lifeline cushions have a pvc pipe running the length of them to help minimize sagging. I still need to order a short lifeline cushion to go on the line behind the helmsman seat. I would highly recommend all of it. It all arrived way faster than they quoted the build time to be as well.
TCA, I had a Yamaha 8hp 4 stroke high thrust extra long shaft with electric tilt installed when I bought my boat from the dealer. The controls are mounted down near the cockpit floor by where my right foot is if sitting on the helmsman seat. The motor was probably a bit more expensive than the tohatsu, but worth in in my opinion. It's just so nice to raise the motor by hitting a button, instead of having to physically do it. That means that I always sail with the motor out of the water. I think its usually good for another half knot of speed, maybe more in light wind. All the cushions came from the chandlery here on this site. I have a full set of the sunsure seat cushions, including the stern rail seats. The backrests for the stern rail and the lifeline cushions are covered in navy sunbrella. The lifeline cushions have a pvc pipe running the length of them to help minimize sagging. I still need to order a short lifeline cushion to go on the line behind the helmsman seat. I would highly recommend all of it. It all arrived way faster than they quoted the build time to be as well.
Ron Mehringer here
Just stumbled upon this message thread and discovered my name showing up. The motor/rudder link I made was simple, cheap and effective. In most cases I disconnected it when sailing, which simply meant lifting the rod out of the hole. Very easy. Having the link is definitely a help but as time went on I used it less and less, mostly because I gained experience handling the boat. I'd recommend doing it if you are so inclined as there really isn't any downside. Best wishes. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
Just stumbled upon this message thread and discovered my name showing up. The motor/rudder link I made was simple, cheap and effective. In most cases I disconnected it when sailing, which simply meant lifting the rod out of the hole. Very easy. Having the link is definitely a help but as time went on I used it less and less, mostly because I gained experience handling the boat. I'd recommend doing it if you are so inclined as there really isn't any downside. Best wishes. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
- Status