2005 Hunter 33 - Shore Power Breaker

Jul 16, 2021
7
Hunter 33-2 Patchogue
Hello-

Having an issue getting shore power to work. Plugged in and when I flip on AC Main switch, I get no power. My last 2 boats had Breakers between the Shore power in plug and the AC Panel. Have looked in the port lockers and I can not locate said safety breaker. The Hunter manual says it is in aft cabin on Starboard side but no breaker there either. Appreciate any insights. Thank you.

Dennis
 
May 27, 2004
2,059
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
I don't know your boat but...
Inside a locker in the aft cabin?
Call the previous owner?
Check continuity of the shore power cable?
Check to power on the shore hook-up box?
 
Jan 7, 2011
5,877
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
Usually, some sort of breaker is installed close to where the shore power plug is mounted on the boat..look around the wiring at the shore power plug… follow the wires from there to the panel….usually close to the plug.

Greg
 
May 7, 2012
1,578
Hunter e33 Maple Bay, BC
I believe this is the manual for the 2005 Hunter 33. If so figure 8.2 on page 8.2 definitely shows a pic of the shore power inlet breaker (C - SHORE POWER RESET). Unfortunately it does not state where is is located. As mentioned above follow the wires from your shore power inlet and it should be within 10’ of there.
1723768038198.png
 
Last edited:
Jul 16, 2021
7
Hunter 33-2 Patchogue
Thank you all for the responses. I will continue to search for it as it has to be installed ( your replies reinforced that fact).
Cheers- Dennis
 
Jul 16, 2021
7
Hunter 33-2 Patchogue
Just to close the loop in hopes of saving others some aggravation. On a 2005 H33 the Shore Power Breaker is in Port side large locker… stern side of locker in a small nook beneath the light fixture. A worst spot, they could not find… especially since I now must rewire the load side plus a new breaker since breaker failed and fried electric line.
IMG_0632.jpeg
IMG_0634.jpeg
. Next advice I need is running a new wire from that spot to AC Panel… I suspect I will find lots of info on that by searching prior posts.
 
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Nov 6, 2017
78
Catalina 30 5611 Stratford, Ct
Just to close the loop in hopes of saving others some aggravation. On a 2005 H33 the Shore Power Breaker is in Port side large locker… stern side of locker in a small nook beneath the light fixture. A worst spot, they could not find… especially since I now must rewire the load side plus a new breaker since breaker failed and fried electric line.View attachment 226839View attachment 226840. Next advice I need is running a new wire from that spot to AC Panel… I suspect I will find lots of info on that by searching prior posts.
First: I would cut the wire ends off and see if the wires are corroded. If they are not there is no reason to replace the wires.
Second: The connectors that were used are no good. Because of the potential load on these wires, the connectors should be crimped with a hydraulic crimp tool or a high quality mechanical crimper capable of making a very tight connection with no space around the wire after it is crimped. In my experience hydraulic is the way to go. After crimping adhesive shrink wrap should cover the entire crimped connection to prevent moisture penetration.
Third: There looks like signs of water in the area. This is evident by the green corrosion on the connections, the mounting plate for the circuit breaker, and the gunk that seems to be along the seam in the breaker itself. Two things could be done to solve that. Find the leak and fix it or relocate the breaker to a known location in the boat that is dry. I would suggest the main AC panel.
Fourth: If you are not experienced working on boat electrical systems you should hire a professional to do the work, as bad things can happen when connections such as the ones you have shown are put in place on a boat. Some of the bad things that can and do happen are life-threatening to you and your passengers. Besides that the tools to do the work that I suggest may cost nearly as much as hiring a pro.
 
Jul 16, 2021
7
Hunter 33-2 Patchogue
First: I would cut the wire ends off and see if the wires are corroded. If they are not there is no reason to replace the wires.
Second: The connectors that were used are no good. Because of the potential load on these wires, the connectors should be crimped with a hydraulic crimp tool or a high quality mechanical crimper capable of making a very tight connection with no space around the wire after it is crimped. In my experience hydraulic is the way to go. After crimping adhesive shrink wrap should cover the entire crimped connection to prevent moisture penetration.
Third: There looks like signs of water in the area. This is evident by the green corrosion on the connections, the mounting plate for the circuit breaker, and the gunk that seems to be along the seam in the breaker itself. Two things could be done to solve that. Find the leak and fix it or relocate the breaker to a known location in the boat that is dry. I would suggest the main AC panel.
Fourth: If you are not experienced working on boat electrical systems you should hire a professional to do the work, as bad things can happen when connections such as the ones you have shown are put in place on a boat. Some of the bad things that can and do happen are life-threatening to you and your passengers. Besides that the tools to do the work that I suggest may cost nearly as much as hiring a pro.
thank you for the great advice
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,952
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Sorry missed this one earlier. Yep, terrible spot for it, I've tripped it a couple of times with stuff in that cockpit locker. If you need to run new wires, there is an 1 1/2" PVC conduit that runs along the outer hull from above the holding tank thru to the top of the shelf above the electrical panel. It's meant for instrument wires etc to the helm.
 
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Sep 20, 2006
2,952
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
If you remove the small wood access panel in the bulkhead in aft cabin, it's right behind the reading light, you can reach around to get at it.
 
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Jul 16, 2021
7
Hunter 33-2 Patchogue
If you remove the small wood access panel in the bulkhead in aft cabin, it's right behind the reading light, you can reach around to get at it.
I do not see an access panel. Do you mean the port side aft panel that ends at back bulkhead in front of diesel tank? If so, I removed 2 bottom screws but could not remove it…. The top disappears behind the headliner. Any help here is appreciated as I am going to need access from there
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,952
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Upper left as you're facing aft, in the wooden panel that separates the holding tank area and the aft bunk. I can get a pic this weekend when back up to the boat.
 
Jul 16, 2021
7
Hunter 33-2 Patchogue
Got it. I have seen that on other 33’s but I do not have that on mine. Anyway I did realize that the electric line leaves that breaker in port locker and runs up port side to the galvanic isolater next to hot water tank. So if I do have to Rewire it is an easy straight run inside the port pvc tube. Appreciate your assistance. Happy sailing!
 
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Sep 20, 2006
2,952
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Got it. I have seen that on other 33’s but I do not have that on mine. Anyway I did realize that the electric line leaves that breaker in port locker and runs up port side to the galvanic isolater next to hot water tank. So if I do have to Rewire it is an easy straight run inside the port pvc tube. Appreciate your assistance. Happy sailing!
Right!, did not think of that and haven't had to get at that side for any wiring etc..

BTW, pet pieve of mine, the 33-2 is not a moodel made by Hunter. The "-2" was added by brokers on Yachtworld during the US recession and there were multiple lists of 33's. The -2 would bump the listing above the others so would be looked at first. Since then it has stuck with the buyers / boats that purchased boats at that time. We've had ours since 2007.