2001 Hunter Galley Icebox to refrigerator

[Palmer King]

I have an Isotherm ASU unit on order to turn my icebox into a fridge. I've been looking at access and it seems the galley comes apart sort of like a reverse jigsaw puzzle.Can anyone tell me the proper order to remove panels, etc. so I can get to the icebox unit? Not only do I want to put in the coldplate and compressor, but I want to add extra insulation to the outside of the box.Thanks in advance,Palmer

 

[pete shaw]

Refrig. Unit

Hi Palmer,Was curious about the amp draw on your unit?We have a 1998 H280 and may one day go for refrig.also.Most units seem to draw from 3 to 6 amps so a wind generator may be the best way to keep the batteries topped off with the heavy draw of the refrig.As far as dismantling your ice box,sorry am not familiar with that (yet!).Smooth sailing Palmer-Pete & Crystal Hobe Sound, Fl.

 

[Steve Dion]

Yours may be different....

Palmer:Yours may be different, but most of these boats really don't have much access to the surrounds of the icebox. I think your holding plate must fit in the opening of the box to get it in. The option would be to completely disassemble your counter top. This will give you access to the entire area. When we installed our Technautics Marine unit, I used some poly board that was notched out to hold the plate to the sides of the box. Then we drilled a hole in the aft end of the compartment to accept the tube from the compressor. This hole was sealed up with foam when everything was done.I found that the biggest problem was the lid of the box did not seal well on our boat. I went to Home Depot and got some 'P' type weather stripping. It has a self stick backing and it only took a few mintues to install it.Pete, shop around and check the information from the mfg about their current draw. You need to realize that their numbers will probably have very little to do with your actual usage. They obviously test their units under test conditions and not actual conditions. Each and every unit is going to work better with better insulation and low air leakage. The only thing you can get from the mfg. specs is a relative usage.

 

[Palmer King]

amp draw, etc.

Pete,Amp draw is a concern, and I'd recommend anyone with a fridge also have a small generator. I picked up a Honda 1000W I keep in the covered in the euro locker. Good for an emergency.After spending a bit of time researching, I went the cold plate route. Evaporator units draw too much power. I suspect that most all brands are about the same, so I picked the Isotherm unit based on feedback from other sailors. No "oh, man, you have to get this unit" promos, but seemed to have less complaints and a growing user base. I went with a unit designed for twice the capacity of my box. Wasn't much difference and price and I'm hoping the larger holding plate causes the compressor to work less.Insulation is the key. That's why I have to dismantle most of the galley and get to the box itself to insulate the outside. I'd lose too much space if I insulate the inside.Wish I could be more help, but I'm flying a bit blind here as well.Cheers,Palmer

 

[Palmer King]

Thanks, Steve

Steve,Appreciate the feedback. Removing the countertop is the idea. I want to add insulation to the outside of the box. Need all the room I can save on the inside. Trouble is, there seems (don't know for sure) to be some sort of interdependencies in the assembly. I was hoping someone could tell me which panels come out first, second, etc. for the shortest route to freeing up the countertop.If I can get the unit out (top and all if need be), I can take it home, set it up on the workbench and take my time doing it right. Put it all back in, hook up the compressor an viola... I hope.Cheers,Palmer