2 part paints

woodster · Jan 7, 2014

gettinthere said:
I'm looking to dive into painting. I'll start with a small project, adding a small plywood floor to our hard bottom inflatable near the bow where the hull is steep V shape. About 2' X 3'. This will be a bit of testing to see how good a painter I am as well as how well a given paint will look and hold up for future paint projects like repainting the entire cockpit of the boat.

So I'm up for trying a 2 part paint. I'm also up for trying something less expensive than the "marine" products like Algrip or Interlux. There are several offered here on the SBO store that might be worth a look.

I do plan on soaking the plywood with a thin 2 part penetrating epoxy first.

What choices do I have and what do I watch out for?

Thanks

you may need to used a primer on you CPES treated wood bottom and will have to sand it as well in order to create a mechanical bond for the primer and then sand the primer with 180 or 220 grit paper to again create a mechanical bond for the top coat of paint ....imho ...i would use Kiwi Grip for the dinghy floor and also the cockpit floor in order to keep it non skid in terms of use for the floor surface...dont need to bust your bohonkas

running around in the dinghy or cockpit

......

regards

woody

woodster · Jan 7, 2014

gettinthere said:
I wont be painting the nonskid of the cockpit, only the gloss. For the very small plywood floor I'll either add non slip tape or do a layer with some non skid 'sand' I have.

Definitely will sand the epoxy coat well for 'tooth' and will need to consider an appropriate primer for the finish paint choice.

then i would go with the two part urathaine paints roll and tip sand roll and tip and use the recomended primer ...any epoxy based primer will work and you may want to use a high build one so when sanding you can prep it to your likeing after all the key is surface prep for a good finish.....its a lot of work non the less but it will do ya proud in the long run ...and as i have found out its nice to be able to stand tall by a job well done lol ..

regards

woody

woodster · Jan 7, 2014

gettinthere said:
Thanks... the big question is which paint? Lots of brands. Several well known marine grade paints like Perfection and many others without the 'marine' designation

Go to PPG automotive store an ask about Essentials paint It is just as expensive though ...as matter of fact you will be just as we'll off with Perfection for a top coat IMHO..regards woody

dscribner · Jan 7, 2014

Rustoleum has some marine paints that some folds swear by, and they are significantly cheaper than the the stuff at West Marine. Would you consider composite decking? I don't know your project . . . Never mind. I just looked back and saw what you're doing. I wonder how a sheet of polycarbonate would hold up? Or impact modified acrylic? At the risk of sounding like an ADHD teen and go off in another direction, I'm planning on doing my deck this year and settled on KiwiGrip, as already suggested. After doing a lot of reading on the genre, it seems like a really good alternative to traditional non-slip surfaces. What ever you do, I hope it comes out better that you expect.

Don

alanwir · Jan 7, 2014

HI:
If you are really into two part paints, the world's leader in this field has been Dupont's trade named product "Nimron" Product is Micron Thin and extremely hard when the job is complete. In the past, they sold the product in a gallon can, with 3 quarts of raw material in it and a second package in a quart can (call it the activator). Once the two are mixed you have a short pot life (maybe one hour) to mix the product and use it. Usually the product is sprayed, not rolled. The product in the quart can is normally an Isocyanate and this kind of chemical is very toxic, one should where an air pack when using the product.

Yes, a lot of trouble to go thru the process, however you want a finish that is weather resistant and lasts for years, this is the product and came long before some of the others you mentioned (not to say they are not as good). But you also should/have to incorporate the safety if you consider the 2 pac system. Auto body shops have huge experience in using this type of product, you might wish to consider visiting one and asking some questions further.

sailormanbigd · Jan 8, 2014

I have had good luck with one part porch enamel from home depot. It is tough and has so far had good adhesion and the best part it is something like $30 a gallon, no mixing. I painted the dinghy and the floor in my cabin and it is pretty tough stuff. It is oil based and designed to be walked on and stand up to UV and weather outside. 2-4 coats with no primer if I recall? Read the label at the store. Can be tinted to infinate colors. It does tend to "yellow' a little so keep that in mind.

woodster · Jan 8, 2014

gettinthere said:
Not really looking for total world domination. Cost effective would be the operative concept. Best bang for the buck. Also, relative ease of use.

i did use the PPG Essentials paint to paint the top sides of my boat...it is PPG's answer to Imaron...i liked the way it went on altho i did spray it on i put 3 coats and sanded between coats....as for the economics of cost i searched for about a year and a half for lower priced paint in this type but found none that was what I call economical in price ...i could have used Perfection but sense i know the people here at PPG auto supply and the fact that i could just drive 6 miles and get more if needed was a plus for me and the fact that i had the benefit of a tech guy physically 6 miles away made the difference in what i used....oh and the paint did cost me about $50.00 a quart....including the additives and there was no break in price for quanity....

regards

woody

Barnacle Bill · Jan 15, 2014

What you are looking for is a two part paint, but don't want to pay the price. Hmmmm. Ever thought they might not exist? Imron is used mostly on cars. Awlgrip on boats and airplanes. Awlgrip is a linear polyurethane two part paint. The original formula is very hard, has great gloss retention, abrasion resistance, etc. They came out with another formula called Awlcraft which has many of the same properties, is more VOC compliant and isn't quite as hard, which means it is more repairable. Any paint recently applied is repairable within a certain time frame so that you can wet sand and buff out sags and runs, etc., but after they cure to total hardness, they aren't so easily repaired and blended in to the original paint job. Awlcraft can be repaired and spot painted and blended in if you do damage to the surface. Interlux' two part paint is formulated for DIY application by rolling and tipping. It is a good product, but limited to fewer colors than Awlgrip. If you are going to spray apply the paint, then Awlgrip products are conducted with Awlcat #2 and then the correct spraying thinner (and there are many of them). If you are going to roll Awgrip products, then Awlcat #3 is what you use (different ratio too). There are some one part polyurethanes that have some of the characteristics of the two parts, but not as good (but very good) and they are like Interlux' Brightside. Any polyurethane paint product is quite hazardous and so you should protect your lungs, skin and eyes when using them.

PaulK · Jan 15, 2014

Some great advice here. (esp. B.Bill) Two-part paint lasts a LONG time, but prep is quite involved. (Sanding, acetone wash, priming, sanding, acetone wash, first coat, sanding, acetone wash, second coat...) One part paints call for similar prep, but for us seemed to hold up for just weeks, not years. The small area you need to cover may not be worth buying an entire quart of 2-part poly. We used Rustoleum high-gloss enamel for the seat box of a center-console runabout and it has held up well for two seasons so far. Prep is much simpler, and cost reasonable. For the deck of our J/36 we went 2-part poly from Interlux. Their detailed instructions and helpful 800 number were very helpful. If the weather had cooperated, I'd have finished in three weeks instead of five. That paint has held up well for at least 10 years, and now needs some attention in high-traffic and wear areas. You pays your money and makes your choice.

Gunni · Jan 16, 2014

Cost effective would be the operative concept. Best bang for the buck. Also, relative ease of use.

Given the same requirements I have had excellent results with marine ply 3-coated with MAS epoxy. First 2 coats fill the woodgrain. Sand, apply last coat with grit. Top coat with Brightsides, Interlux one part boat enamel. Easy.

Need more strength, weight savings? - Wet and epoxy fiberglass cloth with first coat of epoxy. This allows you to use MUCH thinner, lighter, marine ply. That would be my recommendation.