1993 40.5 Standing / Running Rigging Replacement PRO tips?

[svAtargatis]

Hi All,

I have been the owner of my '93 Legend 40.5 for about a year. In 2 days I'm doing my first haul out for new bottom paint and checking the through hulls at a boat yard here in Seattle. The boat yard is doing the work, I'm just learning and supervising.

I'm also getting a full new rig, the current one is at least 15 years old, probably much older after talking to the previous owner. I have a reputable rigging company signed up to do the work we have all the parts ordered and prepped.

I wanted to get some input from folks here. What might come up specific to hunters / 40.5 that I might need to know to make my life easier?

For instance I've seen posts here that removing the traveler from the cabin top and getting access to the rigging that runs under there can be painful and problematic. I feel like I should probably not try and take that off completely.

What else might I need to know before i start?

Thanks in advance all.

 

[jssailem]

I guess a question or two might help us understand your focus.
You identify you are getting new rigging. The company is reputable Riggers doing the work.
I guess I do not understand your question.
Are you replacing the rigging or are you removing it from it’s current place and putting it somewhere else?
Does the company recommend this change?
You have had the boat for a year, is the location of the rigging as designed by Hunter been a problem?

Usually when I have changed my boat design it is with the intent to make an important improvement. What is your plan that you need to get inside the system and remove the traveler?
Are you installing a new one? Most often this is straight forward replacement. Boat Marine Workers who have worked on a boat like yours will know the issues.

 

[Joe]

The traveler is part of your "running" rigging(rope). Usually, when we talk about replacing the rig, or all the rigging, we're talking about the "standing" rigging(wire or rod).
Are you replacing the running rigging, standing rigging... or both? Quite frankly, most folks would not hire a rigging company to just replace sheets, halyards and control lines ....it's just too easy of a job and you can do it in stages without endangering the boat. On the other hand, changing out the standing rigging is more complex, usually done all at the same time, requires ascending the mast and a complete 2 stage tuning. For this reason, it is very common for a boat owner to hire a rigger to change the standing rigging.

In any case, since you're hiring a "reputable" company, and all parts have been ordered, working on the traveler shouldn't be any special problem.

 

[svAtargatis]

Hey both!

I'm replacing the running rigging and standing rigging. I am not changing the rigging as in redesigning it, but rather replacing it with new.

My question was what do I as a first time owner and as part of time putting new standing ringing on a boat, what should I be aware of ahead of time?

Thanks!

 

[jssailem]

Removing the mast to the hard or doing the rigging while standing on the boat. ?

When removing the mast give care to taking the mast down. Mark the shroud turn buckles so you can find the previous tuning to smooth the tuning upon retuning the mast.

Be assured the person lifting the mast knows how to minimize the risks and protect the hardware like radar or lightson the mast.

 

[svAtargatis]

thanks @jssailem! we managed to get the mast off the boat haul'd out and things seem to be going with out issue.

 

[jssailem]

Where did you haul.... Sequim, or is that Port Townsend?

 

[svAtargatis]

that's sea view down at shilshole.

 

[Rich Stidger]

When you replace the mast, be sure that the PVC tube the the wiring passes through the mast step is at least a couple inches high. And when the wire bundle is inserted into that PVC tube, be sure that the bundle has a drip loop above the PVC entrance. Doing this will go a long way to eliminating mast leaks in the future.

 

[svAtargatis]

When you replace the mast, be sure that the PVC tube the the wiring passes through the mast step is at least a couple inches high.

I was thinking about extending the PVC pipe a few inches to protect it a bit more

 

[Rich Stidger]

I was thinking about extending the PVC pipe a few inches to protect it a bit more

Good idea; can't hurt. But the drip loop in the cables is very important.

 

[jssailem]

Here are a couple of pictures, what I did on my mast step.

Here is the initial attachement of the mast step. The pipes are aluminum. The wire bundle is the old system and was cut off at the mast step. I caulked the old wires. I caulked the pipes then set them into the mast step.


To add a little extra, I attached hose over the wire end then attached the hose to the pipe. This provided a smooth transition for the wires and made a great drip loop in the mast to deal with the water dripping down the wires.

I also added weep holes for the mast to drain out onto the deck.

5 years no drips.

Inside I used a terminal block to connect to the interior bundle. It allows me too release all the wires from inside the boat should I again need to drop the mast.