It used to be we could compose an article and submit it as such with photos somewhere on this site. It has been some time since I've been in here, so I don't have the skills to do so. The following article is illustrated for those interested, so if you have a need for it, email me, or advise how I may submit it to the knowledge base. Deck Removal 1986 Hunter 23 Standard Safety Precautions: It is presumed individuals attempting the following procedure have adequate experience with the tools and materials, and have all skills necessary at their disposal. DISCONNECT AND REMOVE BATTERIES. REMOVE EVERYTHING NOT PART OF THE STRUCTURE OF THE BOAT. Fiberglass is very flammable and the components employed in its application are even more volatile. Mind all sources of ignition. Remove the rub rail Above the rudder pintle there is a metal plate curved over the radius of the rubber part of the rub rail secured with two screws. Remove the screws and plate. At the seam exposed pull the rubber insert from its plastic mount along its entirety. Remove the screws from the plastic rub rail mount and remove same mount likewise. Remove the screws from the deck and hull joint. Be especially attentive to this, for many of the screw heads may be covered with silicone caulk and therefore invisible. Slacken and/or remove hardware Remove the bow stanchion. You will have to cut the DC electrical wires going to the bow light that run on the starboard side through the deck into the tubular metal structure. Remove the rod that runs through the nose of the chain locker. This rod was inserted through the joint from the port side. I found a silicone plug covering the hole it was installed through. From the starboard side I drilled a 3/8” hole for access, and took a drive to it (with minimal hammer force) from the starboard to the port side, from where I could grasp and pull it with pliers extracting it entirely. Within the cabin note the adjustment of the standing rigging chain plate turnbuckle. Slacken the turnbuckles considerably but not entirely. Slacken the turnbuckles entirely (separating parts) only if you intend to lift the deck away from the hull with proper lifting gear. From inside the v-berth remove the nuts that hold the U-bolt to the bow. This U-bolt is the one on the bow that is used to haul the boat upon the trailer. Remove this U-bolt from the bow of the boat. Separate the deck and hull Gently force small wedges along the length of the boat deck and hull joint. Find the widest point along the seam. Insert a thin board (1/2”) in this seam and ply gently between the hull and deck, upward, and place another board nearby, doing the same. Use minimal force. At this point there should be nothing more than caulk holding the deck to hull, so a thin putty knife or razor should free one from another. Support the deck as you raise it with scrap board material. Note: Now that the deck is raised from the boat be aware of the forces each is under, disjoined. Proper support is crucial against gravity to minimize stress. The deck will sag and the hull will widen under these forces, and keep in mind heat from the sun. If this is to be accomplished over extended periods such as weekends, I would suggest removing all separators between hull and deck, and allow the deck to rest on the hull as it was designed, during intervals. Cover the entire project with suitable material to prevent further water intrusion.