I need to replace my topping lift on my 1983 H31 before the boom falls. The topping lift is frayed. I believe the existing lift has an eye on one end. Can the topping lift be purchased or does this need to be made? My boat is a Hunter 31 with an Isomat rig, and as far as I know, the topping lift is the original design. It consists of a stainless wire hanging down from the mast head. At the end of the wire is a small block. The block is about 3 feet above the normal height of the boom. There is a 1/4" line that connects to the boom via a stainless eye riveted to the port side, goes up and around the block on the wire line from the mast head, down to a small cheek block on the starboard side of the boom, and then along the length of the boom to a small 3” cleat to which the line is tied off. Thanks, Greg W
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Replace the S.S. line?
Greg: Do you need to replace the S.S. line? If this is the case, then you may want to remove the old one and take it to a rigging shop or just measure it and have them send you one. I would photograph the cable ends and email them the photos with the overall measurements. It should be as simple as going up the stick removing the old one and reinstalling upon receipt. You can also use a piece of line to make a temporary one too. PS: That sounds like the original. I would have the topping lift made of coated wire. This will help minimize the wear on your the main sail leech.
Greg: Do you need to replace the S.S. line? If this is the case, then you may want to remove the old one and take it to a rigging shop or just measure it and have them send you one. I would photograph the cable ends and email them the photos with the overall measurements. It should be as simple as going up the stick removing the old one and reinstalling upon receipt. You can also use a piece of line to make a temporary one too. PS: That sounds like the original. I would have the topping lift made of coated wire. This will help minimize the wear on your the main sail leech.
Use Your Main Halyard Temporarily...
...Just in case the wire were to break. My L37 (1988) is rigged like that, only my Dutchman lines are connected to it. I recently had the Dutchman down, with the mast, and it was OK, although I have changed the braided line thru the block on the wire, once. If you have a Dutchman, just be sure it's not affected by a change of the topping lift. Otherwise, use Steve Dion's recommendation.
...Just in case the wire were to break. My L37 (1988) is rigged like that, only my Dutchman lines are connected to it. I recently had the Dutchman down, with the mast, and it was OK, although I have changed the braided line thru the block on the wire, once. If you have a Dutchman, just be sure it's not affected by a change of the topping lift. Otherwise, use Steve Dion's recommendation.
Stopper Knots
I didn't care too much for the line arrangement on my topping lift. As described by the user, it is wire with a block at the lower end. If the nylon braid line were to part at either end of where the line is connected, the boom would fall down (And hurt someody if they were hit in the head. But the sail must be down for this to happen.). I tied stopper knots (figure-of-eight knots) about 1' on either side of the block. This won't affect my topping lift adjustments and protects us while we motor.
I didn't care too much for the line arrangement on my topping lift. As described by the user, it is wire with a block at the lower end. If the nylon braid line were to part at either end of where the line is connected, the boom would fall down (And hurt someody if they were hit in the head. But the sail must be down for this to happen.). I tied stopper knots (figure-of-eight knots) about 1' on either side of the block. This won't affect my topping lift adjustments and protects us while we motor.
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