1976 25 Hunter toe rail attachment

Jun 8, 2004
10,531
-na -NA Anywhere USA
I could not help on one inquiry about the toe rail what to use when reapplying it to the boat. Please advise as I could not answer that one as I am not that familiar but I did not recommend the Satan's glue, 5200
 
Jun 4, 2004
392
Hunter 31 and 25 and fomerly 23.5 Stockton State Park Marina; MO
Toe rail

I could not help on one inquiry about the toe rail what to use when reapplying it to the boat. Please advise as I could not answer that one as I am not that familiar but I did not recommend the Satan's glue, 5200
Dave et al,

Back in 2010 I emailed Eddie Breeden at Hunter on this subject. He said it was either 3M 5200 or a type of butyl tape. He reccommended 5200.
I have an 83 Hunter 25. It origonally had butyl tape. I plan to reinstall with Sikafkex.

Dennis
 

kito

.
Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
I didn't remove my toe rail on my H30 but if I did, I believe I would use butyl tape on the top flange since it will be under compression and use 5200 or equal to the outside flange to eliminate the butyl goo that flows out. Plus the outer flange is not under compression.
 
May 25, 2015
176
Macgregor, Hunter Venture 21, H25 Candlewood
Thank you for the replies.

Buy stock in 3M, looks like I'll be buying a bit of 5200.
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,133
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
5200 is the one thing that's perfect for this. If you must use Sikflex, either because your family owns stock in the company or you're one of those people who insisted all through the 1990s that Windows was faster than a Mac, make sure you get the kind that is meant to go with aluminum. It's not the chemical adhesion that matters; it's the compound's ability to move when the aluminum moves with temperature changes. 5200 is made for this (Boeing airliners used it to hold windows in-- no screws-- just 5200).

Be very careful in backing toerail bolts out. I would do a smallish section at a time; also I would consider just rocking the thing up a little, using hard-plastic wedges and leaving the nuts on the bottoms of the bolts (where possible) and just squeezing the stuff underneath. Once the rail comes off, good luck putting it back.

Also I would strongly recommend replacing all the bolts. If you cannot get, or choose to not use, SS carriage bolts (what was original), then consider hex-heads. These, like carriage bolts, are easy for one person to use because you don't have to be topside to hold the head. With hex-heads, just get about 5 little 7/16"; wrenches and drop them onto the heads, then go below and crank up with your ratchet. The wrenches will stop against the rail and you'll be able to turn to your heart's content. One last yank on the wrenches from topside will free them to let them be removed-- and that's about exactly the amount of torque that the 5200 will need or allow.

Remember also to use Delrin flat washers under hex-head screws; with carriage bolts lube them well with Tef-Gel or something similar to minimize bimetallic corrosion.
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,133
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
JohnCTV21

Remember you can (probably should) post your H25 questions in the Cherubini Hunters forum, as that's where all of us who have done these jobs with these boats usually hang out. :)
 
May 25, 2015
176
Macgregor, Hunter Venture 21, H25 Candlewood
Thank you for the reply, already have all new carriage bolts, I'll get the gel when I order the 5200.
I will post further questions in the other forum, Dave was kind enough to start this after I asked him in private.

Thank you also for all the information in your blog
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,531
-na -NA Anywhere USA
DianaofBurlington;

Thank you for helping this fellow out. I was trying to remember your contact name but you came thru as always. Thank you again for your contributions to the forum.