Has anyone put a 135% on their H410? Where did you put the jib leads? How does the sail tack with the shrouds? Did you keep the high clew? Did you add spinnaker winches (have gennaker blocks and am thinking that the existing jib winches will work fine if I put the leads on the coach aft of the existing 110% leads). Any information would be greatly appreciated. Looking to minimize our light wind conditions. Thanks. /c s/v Twilight, H410 email - Twilightrb@msn.com
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Hunter 410
Carol you installed a MAXPROP on your 410. Can you tell me what degree of pitch you used and what effect it had on your RPMs thanks KEN
Carol you installed a MAXPROP on your 410. Can you tell me what degree of pitch you used and what effect it had on your RPMs thanks KEN
ken of long island - prop
Ken: I had the dealer install the 3-blade feathering Max-Prop on my H410 so it was the factory pitch setting - I selected the model that allows the pitch to be adjusted in the water too and have never had to readjust it after the initial installation. I usually motor at 2800-2900 rpms which is the most fuel effective speed (3/4 gallon/hour). This moves the boat under normal conditions at 6.5-7.5 knots (you'll get a knot or more above that in a good downwind surfing condition). With the standard factory prop, you would have to increase your rpms to 3200 or more to get the same speed, and it would also increase your fuel consumption to over 1 gallon/hour. Not only does the Max-Prop maximize the engine output, it allows you to stop on a dime, turn the H410 on its radius and and have a very manageable reverse. Worth EVERY penny! If you keep your boat in salt water, you will also want to get the prop shaft zincs to help maintain your investment. Every so often I get to drive an H410 with a factory prop and can't wait to use mine after those outings. Fair winds, /c, s/v Twilight H410
Ken: I had the dealer install the 3-blade feathering Max-Prop on my H410 so it was the factory pitch setting - I selected the model that allows the pitch to be adjusted in the water too and have never had to readjust it after the initial installation. I usually motor at 2800-2900 rpms which is the most fuel effective speed (3/4 gallon/hour). This moves the boat under normal conditions at 6.5-7.5 knots (you'll get a knot or more above that in a good downwind surfing condition). With the standard factory prop, you would have to increase your rpms to 3200 or more to get the same speed, and it would also increase your fuel consumption to over 1 gallon/hour. Not only does the Max-Prop maximize the engine output, it allows you to stop on a dime, turn the H410 on its radius and and have a very manageable reverse. Worth EVERY penny! If you keep your boat in salt water, you will also want to get the prop shaft zincs to help maintain your investment. Every so often I get to drive an H410 with a factory prop and can't wait to use mine after those outings. Fair winds, /c, s/v Twilight H410
wrong rig
Carol, I think you would lose more than you would gain. The shrouds are too far outboard, which means that any sail larger than a 110 could not be trimmed tight enough to point higher than a close reach. You'd probably get more out of a really light 110, maybe something made of mylar. Since the boat is fraction rigged, you'll get even more light-air power by replacing your OEM main with a light-air main, something along the lines of a North 3DL goodie made of kevlar/carbon. In other words, work with the rig, not against it.
Carol, I think you would lose more than you would gain. The shrouds are too far outboard, which means that any sail larger than a 110 could not be trimmed tight enough to point higher than a close reach. You'd probably get more out of a really light 110, maybe something made of mylar. Since the boat is fraction rigged, you'll get even more light-air power by replacing your OEM main with a light-air main, something along the lines of a North 3DL goodie made of kevlar/carbon. In other words, work with the rig, not against it.
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