12V outlet

[Syversens]

Hi All, I wanted to try another electrical project: installing a 12V outlet close to the nav station on our 99 361. I opened the cabinet with the radio and had one look and closed it. there seem to be a 12V bus there with some bigger supply wires on the right. also it has numbers on the bus.... Does anyone know where I'd plug in a 12V outlet in there to make it safe ? the outlet will provide power to a TV and airpump (not at the same time). thanksGaute

 

[Mike]

12 volt source

Gaute, if the 12v socket you have has an in line fuse then you can tie in to any one of the 12 volt busses. Tie into one of the main busses if you can. Also do so on the hot side of the breaker. Again that's if the socket has an inline fuse. If it does not have an inline fuse then try to determine the load in amps you'll place on the socket. Once you know that you can select one of the breakers to tie into by knowing what amps the socket will use as well as what is already tied to the breaker. Note that some of your breakers have higher amperage ratings than others. The idea is to not overload and therefore trip the breaker should every appliance tied to it be turned on.If you have the manual for the boat it will list the breakers and the associated pin #s. You can use the list to determine which pin to tap into.If all this is confusing then find someone who knows boating electrical systems and bribe them wih some cold beer. It's not a big deal for someone familiar with DC systems. Let me know what questions you have and I'll do my best to answer them.Mike

 

[Syversens]

My manual wasn't very helpful

Hi Mike, I checked the TV and it said it was 3A draw, this seemed low to me but its what the spec said for AC. I had a look at the manual which spelled out all cable run, how long they were and placements however it didn't seem to have a diagram of the actual panel and avaliability.The socket I got does not have a breaker on it but I noticed all the other outlets (to radio and so on) does not either so I'm hoping there is one more avaliable. I'll get a picture in here tomorrow. There were numbers along the middle of the bus such as 1.1 3 and 5, also there were 30 on the right half, could that be the total breaker A for that circuit ?I like the beer idea and it worked on the exhaust elbow but the experts seem few or my beer is too cheap. I'll get a pic in and see if that helpsthanksGaute

 

[Mike]

DC breakers

Gaute, it would be nice, but not necessary, to see what the Amps are when you use DC, it should be different that AC. The numbers you saw inside the wiring panel are pin/wire numbers not the amperage. Since your socket does not have an in line fuse you'll want to use one of the breakers already in the panel. Unless they've been used there should be one or two spare breakers at the bottom of the panel. Look on the front of the panel and check the lower two breakers. See if they're labeled, such as windlass or any other use. If they're unlabled they would be free to use and you could connect your socket into one of them. If they are used then you can still use a breaker but you'll want to select one that would be convenient to use. Pick one that wont turn on a light or appliance without you actually turning on the device by hand. This way the socket will be the only use of DC power at that time, and you won't have to worry about accidentally leaving something like the runnung lights on. Let me know two things:Do you have an electrical meter? (not a problem if you dont)Do you have any unused breakers?Let me know and I'll tell you what to look for.Mike

 

[Dragonfly6689]

Installed DC at the nav station and helm...

We needed 12v DC as you suggested. See details of our installation with pictures online: http://home.att.net/~dragonflyb331/ Look under DC Outlets. We had 2 free breakers on the lower right of the breaker pannel. All we had do to was run the wire and connect the hot and ground wires.Good luck.Mark

 

[Mike B]

12 DC socket

Gaute, on the lower row there is a single red wire that's been inserted into the terminal block. To either side there are openings in which you can insert the red wire from your socket. First, to be on the safe side, turn off all your power, both AC and DC. Turn all of your DC breakers on. As a check you should not be able to turn on the lights or get the VHF to turn on, etc. Now you can connect the black lead to any of the openings grouped in with the other black wires. For the red wire insert it into one of the openings next the red wire I mentioned. Turn your DC power back on (leave the AC off for now). Plug something into the socket and see if it runs. If it does your next step is to see if you can switch it off via one of your breakers. Turn off your DC breakers one at a time and see if the device you plugged in stops operating. When it does you'll now know which breaker to have on when you want to operate the socket. If none of the breakers turn the device off then you have tapped the red wire into a place that will always have DC power as long as the batteries are turned on. This is OK since you bought a socket with an in line fuse. Both configurations are OK. Since you mentioned possibly placing it near the companionway another option would be to wire it directly to the house battery at the base of the engine. You could place it in the area of the upper compapionway step. Just be sure to tywrap the wires out the way so when you open the engine cover they don't become tangled. This would also help keep them from catching on anything on or near the engine. If you do choose to connect directly to the battery be sure to use a proper connector and wire designed for marine use. Usually you can crimp the connector to the ends of the wires, remove the wing nuts on the battery and place the additonal connectors on top of the existing, screw the wing nuts back on and you're done. The socket will always have power to it regardless of the DC power being turned on or not. Some times there are other ways of connecting the wires to the battery but West Marine or any other marine store should be able to help you pick out the proper ones. Also be sure to make good crimps on the connectors at the ends of the 12 volt socket. Let me know what else you need.Mike

 

[Syversens]

Thanks Mike, great instruction as always.

Wow Mike, thanks again for great instructions. I'll do just that, the plug in the back has a fuse too so I'm thinking the cables that came with it will be enough, however I'll make sure they are crimped on to proper terminals, I might do it at the battery switch so I can turn off this outlet with all others.A couple of questions: I'm assuming its the "lone" wire between the blocks of three on left and a bunch on right. I couldnt figure out how to insert the line but I didnt want to break any of the little tabs that would hold the wire.... Also I noticed that there was a small grey "thingy" between the top and bottom row right under the number, is that a important piece for this connection.thanks again Mike !

 

[Mike]

Connect to the battery switch

Gaute, based on your comments, it appears as though it would be more convenient and much easier for you to make the connection at the battery switch. If you want to connect it to the switch make sure you connect to the "switched" side of the house switch. This way the socket will be turned off with the switch. Let me know if your not sure how to tell which side to use. Remember to turn the batteries off before making connections, make proper crimps, neatly ty wrap the wires out of the way, and leave enough slack in the wires so they're not pulled tight. Let me know what else you have questions on.Mike

 

[Syversens]

safe connection to the bus

Hi Mike, I tried to connect the outlet today but I couldnt make a "permanent" connection to the 12V bus. I tried a few different things such as moving the "clip" in the middle and inserting a pointy tool into the little hole above the opening. Neighter locked the wire in the socket. If there a special trick to this ?Also on the black, can it be on any of the connectors to the left ? I didnt really get that far but thought I'd ask )Gaute

 

[Mike B]

Pins

Gaute if I recall correctly you should be able to insert the straight end of the wire in the opening by pushing in on it. If that doesn't seem to work the openings may be spring loaded and you'll have to use a small tool to help open the slot where you'll insert the wire. As I said it's been a while since I've done it. I'll try to remember and look at mine this weekend and let you know. As far as the black wire is concerned, yes you should be able to connect anywhere as they are all tied together anyway. If you'd like we can go to email and exchange phone #s and possibly talk live on this one. Let me know.Mike

 

[Mike B]

E Mail

Gaute FYI I'm registered on this site and you can send a personal email by linking through to me.Mike

 

[Syversens]

found the method and installed the outlet

Hi all, I foud how to open the plugin. Just put something sharp really far in and pry down... I thought I was going to hear a crack but it opened up nicely and made the connection nicely. I also put one in the back. I actually installed it right over the switches on the inside, that way I can take a 12V extension cord thru the window there to where I need it on deck.thanks all for suggestions, special thanks to Mike for always helpfull instructions.Gaute