110 volt outlets
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I agree that GFCI are desireable. All of your outlets need not be GFCI, only the first one in a chain in a circuit. The first one covers the downstream outlets. We have 5 AC duplex receptacles, but only 2 GFCIs while remaining fully covered.
I think another way to say that is each outlet has its own homerun to the panel/breaker. Most production boats, unlike yours (!), Ross, because of your total boat rebuild, don't for obvious construction cost reasons.
I was doing some rewiring on my 86 Hunter 31. Disconnected all the batts, and turned off all the ac switches at the panel. On shore power, only two outlets work, one on each side of the cabin. Am I correct in assuming they are wired directly from the shore plug and by pass the power distribution panel. I wonder if they are wired separately or serially? Should these by GFCI plugs? I wonder if they are fused anywhere?
If all your breakers are off and they are still live, then they are wired directly into the shore power main bypassing your fuse / breaker / disconnect panel. Not good, since they are relying on the shore breaker for protection, 20-30-50 amp or whatever your marina has. And I concurr that the first outlet in a circuit should be a GFI for protection and those that follow it can be regular outlets.
Would it not also be wise to install a galvanic isolater at this time since everything is being upgraded.......
Do you not have a main breaker for the AC ? That is deadly ! You absolutely must be able to interrupt the power from shore with a main breaker. My power cable is 30 amp rated , so my main breaker is 30 amp rated. My 4 branch circuits are rated for 15 amps each and are each supplied through 15 amp breakers. This way I can not overload any part of the AC supply. The breaker size is always determined by the wire size supplying the circuit. The breakers protect the wire and the house. The appliance is on its own.
My new wiring diagram calls for a 30 amp breaker between the ac source and the inverter/charger, which is then routed to the ac panel. Since there are apparently 2 feeds from the shore power plug, one to the panel and one directly to the "hot" plugs, I will intercept that in the cabin with a second 30 amp breaker. Since shore power is to starboard, and the power panel is amidships, I am going to assume the starboard hot plug is the 1st in that series and make that the GFI plug.
Assume NOTHING
You need to make a wiring diagram, find out where wires start and end and repair what is necessary.
Your assumptions coupled with ours could well be a disaster. Maybe there's a second AC receptacle breaker on your boat and you just don't know about it.
Check it out yourself, because while the answers have been appropriate to your questions, only YOU can know for sure.
Stop wondering and start tracing wires. The internet is really a bad vehicle for helping people in tracing smells or wiring!
You need to make a wiring diagram, find out where wires start and end and repair what is necessary.
Your assumptions coupled with ours could well be a disaster. Maybe there's a second AC receptacle breaker on your boat and you just don't know about it.
Check it out yourself, because while the answers have been appropriate to your questions, only YOU can know for sure.
Good advice, Stu. Tracing wiring on a boat is complicated because some of the runs are inaccessable, and other places are a pretty tight fit. Have my handy multi-meter in hand and will do some checking. Had hoped some other Hunter 31 owner had preceded me down this path.
What size wire runs from the inverter to the AC ckt brkr panel? Perhaps the previous owner found that wire was a #12 at most and realized you could not use the full 30 amps of shore power if using the inverter's "auto-switch" mode when there's a loose of shore power. To use the full 30, maybe he put in the two "hot" outlets? More recently the practice is a 30-amp breaker close to where the AC connector mounts to the boat. This breaker protects the wire between there and the Ckt brkr panel or inverter. Mine is tucked away aft in the lazz.
If you have only the two outlets on the new c.b., you don't want a 30 amp- maybe a 15 or 20? You have to size it to the current-carrying capacity of the wires and outlets.
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Ron, since the boat did not have an inverter before, I am installing a Freedom 20. I can wire any size that seems appropriate, though I suppose I will use the same gauge wire that comes off the interter itself.
Confused
The concept is that the inverter "replaces" the shorepower as a source of alternating current.
So the shorepower wires come in, go to the Freedom first, and then to the existing AC 30A breaker on your panel.
The Freedom has an internal transfer switch.
Something sounds incorrect about that statement.
You later say you're putting in a Freedom 20. We have a Freedom 15. Our manual did not require a separate breaker between the shorepower and the inverter/charger. It would be relatively meaningless.
The concept is that the inverter "replaces" the shorepower as a source of alternating current.
So the shorepower wires come in, go to the Freedom first, and then to the existing AC 30A breaker on your panel.
The Freedom has an internal transfer switch.
Something sounds incorrect about that statement.
That's what I see is the problem, Stu. Maybe you worked it out somehow, but I did not wire my Xantrex inverter for the auto-switch feature becasue the unit is only made for 10 amps (I assume that's the "20"). I left the shore power wired right to the breaker panel and delt with transfering SP to INV another way. If he has only 12 guage wire from the INV to CB panel, he can not make use of the other 10 amps the shore power can provide. Fire hazard! I never could locate an amp-rating for the transfer circuit itself. Maybe Wufi's book describes it better.
By the way, in Wufi's plan he could be running the battery CHARGER on shore power, then the auto kick in. This would have the battery charger on at the same time the inverter is on, and that's a BIG NO-NO. I suggest NOT using the auto feature for these several reasons unless you have some equipment that really needs constant power. I think it will be pretty obvious when the shore power will be disconnect and would allow you time to turn on the inverter. And how opften do you loose shore power?
By the way, in Wufi's plan he could be running the battery CHARGER on shore power, then the auto kick in. This would have the battery charger on at the same time the inverter is on, and that's a BIG NO-NO. I suggest NOT using the auto feature for these several reasons unless you have some equipment that really needs constant power. I think it will be pretty obvious when the shore power will be disconnect and would allow you time to turn on the inverter. And how opften do you loose shore power?
Ron, your para 2 I agree wholeheartedly. So many people with separate inverters and chargers kinda forget that, 'cuz they're used to leaving the charger breaker on all the time, and then they go buy and install a separate inverter!
As far as para 1: I think that the "Freedom" is the key thing here, not the "20." The Freedom is a combined inverter charger, so except for your wiring size comments, I don't think it applies. It sounds like he's removing whatever charger he may have had and replacing it with a Freedom.
We'll see what the PO has to say now. Anything we can do to help.
As far as para 1: I think that the "Freedom" is the key thing here, not the "20." The Freedom is a combined inverter charger, so except for your wiring size comments, I don't think it applies. It sounds like he's removing whatever charger he may have had and replacing it with a Freedom.
We'll see what the PO has to say now. Anything we can do to help.
Stu, being a novice, I was working with Caulder's book in compiling my wiring concept. I am at work, so don't have access to either the book or my diagram. When I get have a chance tomorrow I'll try to locate the page from which I concluded that a breaker should be installed. You are also correct about the charger. I removed the ABC12-15 charger in favor of the Freedom combo unit.
I really appreciate you folks taking the time to review what I am trying to put together. As things get clearer, I try to modify the wiring diagram, doing only the sure things [such as installing the galvanic isolator] until I am confident the other stuff is correct.
I really appreciate you folks taking the time to review what I am trying to put together. As things get clearer, I try to modify the wiring diagram, doing only the sure things [such as installing the galvanic isolator] until I am confident the other stuff is correct.
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