The angle of my jib line with the over sized jib is to steep when the wind kicks up. I have adjusted by rolling the jib a little. Although this works I would like another solution. Any ideas other than installing tracks?
110% Jib messes up jib sheet angle on my Hunter 26
- Thread starter bmorr
- Start date
Either move the existing lead block to the desired location. Or install a second block farther aft.... run the sheet through it.... then rig a second, adjustment line through the forward block. This adjuster would have a loop at the end to contain the sheet, but allow it to move when you tack over. The adjustment sheet can be brought back to a conveniently place cleat.... end result is that you are able to change the lead angle by pulling down on the sheet with the adjuster line. For a visual, think of a "vertical barber-hauler".
Another way to lower the lead angle is to change the height of the sail's clew. Your RF unit may make that solution moot, however.
Another way to lower the lead angle is to change the height of the sail's clew. Your RF unit may make that solution moot, however.
Low friction rings? I'm not visualizing the problem very well.
So maybe you could haul the clew in (Or keep it at the same position) with the sheet through a ring (Inhauler) and ease the sheet to let the leech open. The clew would move outboard as you ease the sheet and you would lose windward progress but you would de-power. As the wind goes up we tend to foot anyway.
Probably better to reef the main.
From New Oxford American Dictionary: (leech3 | lēCH | noun Sailing the after or leeward edge of a fore-and-aft sail, the leeward edge of a spinnaker, or a vertical edge of a square sail.)
So maybe you could haul the clew in (Or keep it at the same position) with the sheet through a ring (Inhauler) and ease the sheet to let the leech open. The clew would move outboard as you ease the sheet and you would lose windward progress but you would de-power. As the wind goes up we tend to foot anyway.
Probably better to reef the main.
From New Oxford American Dictionary: (leech3 | lēCH | noun Sailing the after or leeward edge of a fore-and-aft sail, the leeward edge of a spinnaker, or a vertical edge of a square sail.)
A barber hauler would work. Rig a line with a block (pulley) on one end. Run the sheet through the block before it goes through the lead block. Hauling aft on the line will pull the clew aft. Hauling forward moves the clew forward. Hauling inboard tightens the sheeting angle. If you use a snatch block, you can easily move it to the working sheet when you tack.
The only other solutions are a second lead block, or a track. Our lead blocks attach to the toe rail, which allows the adjustment, but the 26 doesn’t have a toe rail. Even if it did, you would have a wider sheeting angle from the rail.
The only other solutions are a second lead block, or a track. Our lead blocks attach to the toe rail, which allows the adjustment, but the 26 doesn’t have a toe rail. Even if it did, you would have a wider sheeting angle from the rail.
I’m pretty sure the factory jib on the H26 is only 100%, in keeping with the design of the quasi-B&R rig.
I’m not sure there is much to be gained with oversized headsails on that rig.
Unfortunately, the best solution might be to go back to a 100% jib, rather than start mucking with the deck layout, mounting more stuff on deck, etc. to accommodate a jib that doesn’t really give you any benefits.
If you’re stuck with/determined to stay with the 110% jib, then dewhunter’s suggestion looks interesting, especially because you can easily revert to a 100% later.
I’m not sure there is much to be gained with oversized headsails on that rig.
Unfortunately, the best solution might be to go back to a 100% jib, rather than start mucking with the deck layout, mounting more stuff on deck, etc. to accommodate a jib that doesn’t really give you any benefits.
If you’re stuck with/determined to stay with the 110% jib, then dewhunter’s suggestion looks interesting, especially because you can easily revert to a 100% later.
Do you have pictures? By running your sheet through a block that is then anchored farther aft or higher up, like dewhunter has demonstrated, you can get the angle your looking for. You can also improve your mechanical advantage, however, this all adds complexity and tacking becomes harder and slower. It can also become a problem with sudden wind shifts and you have to let go the sheet quickly, so consider your options well before deciding where and what to use.
-Will (Dragonfly)
-Will (Dragonfly)
Actually the tacking and sheeting times are faster and more accurate with the modified block set up. This is due to the sail now being fully powered up. As far as response time to wind shifts and puffs I control the jib sheet, traveler, main sheet and tiller with one hand as I sit on the windward side stern seat. Everything works on a 1 to 1 ratio. All I do is monitor the the heel angle while easing or powering up. Also this is a less complicated system than a track and car setup, at a lot less cost. D
Good point, Crazy Dave, as we don't know the provenance of the OP's jib.
Which makes it that much more important to think twice before modifying their deck hardware layout, if they're accommodating a jib not properly cut for the H26/260. Better to bite the bullet and get the right jib (if that's the issue), before poking new holes in the deck.
It certainly does make it important, on a boat rigged as the H26/260 is, to know just where the clew is on any replacement jib, since the sheeting block is in a fixed position that doesn't leave much margin for error.
Also, in case the OP is trying to increase sail area, my research has always shown that on a rig like this, you need to look at e.g. asymmetric spinnakers, etc., rather than try to increase the size of the jib. The rig doesn't seem to support or benefit from big genoas on the furler, even if you address the sheeting location challenge.
Which makes it that much more important to think twice before modifying their deck hardware layout, if they're accommodating a jib not properly cut for the H26/260. Better to bite the bullet and get the right jib (if that's the issue), before poking new holes in the deck.
It certainly does make it important, on a boat rigged as the H26/260 is, to know just where the clew is on any replacement jib, since the sheeting block is in a fixed position that doesn't leave much margin for error.
Also, in case the OP is trying to increase sail area, my research has always shown that on a rig like this, you need to look at e.g. asymmetric spinnakers, etc., rather than try to increase the size of the jib. The rig doesn't seem to support or benefit from big genoas on the furler, even if you address the sheeting location challenge.
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If it's a properly shaped jib that is not blown out a rule of thumb is the sheet should bisect the clew. Some sailmakers put a "Trim line" on the jib that extends onto the jib from the clew bisecting the sail from the foot and leech. You're supposed to trim the sheet so it's continuous with that line. That's "Push Here Dummy" trimming but will get you most of the way there.
I personally like to set the lead so that when the jib is trimmed in the sail is about the same distance from the spreaders as the sail is from the turnbuckles in 10 to 12 kts.
Regarding a track for the H26, a boat I don't know, it does not have to extend a large distance on the deck. 2' would probably be over kill for one sail - the 110. 1" may be enough. When you see tracks that extend a long way on the deck - say from shrouds to cockpit coaming, it is because that boat will carry several jibs and genoa. Most adjustments for a single sail are way smaller.
I personally like to set the lead so that when the jib is trimmed in the sail is about the same distance from the spreaders as the sail is from the turnbuckles in 10 to 12 kts.
Regarding a track for the H26, a boat I don't know, it does not have to extend a large distance on the deck. 2' would probably be over kill for one sail - the 110. 1" may be enough. When you see tracks that extend a long way on the deck - say from shrouds to cockpit coaming, it is because that boat will carry several jibs and genoa. Most adjustments for a single sail are way smaller.
I started to watch the video but stopped when the fellow said the jib is the primary source of power.
The boat is a water ballast sailboat using a B&R rugged mast with no backstay. Worked very well and the mainsail which is bigger than a standard mainsail is the primary source of power as it was designed that way since there is no backstay. If you take the area of the mainsail and jib, you essentially have a standard main and a 135-140 Genoa. Yes I have raced the boat and was successful. When you hear or watch anything does not apply to all boats
The boat is a water ballast sailboat using a B&R rugged mast with no backstay. Worked very well and the mainsail which is bigger than a standard mainsail is the primary source of power as it was designed that way since there is no backstay. If you take the area of the mainsail and jib, you essentially have a standard main and a 135-140 Genoa. Yes I have raced the boat and was successful. When you hear or watch anything does not apply to all boats
FWIW the video says "...on most sloop rigged sailboats, the jib is the primary source of power power..." which I would assume is a reasonable statement.
The answer to the poster's question regarding determining the sheet angle is the same, whether the particular boat design has a bigger main or not...
The answer to the poster's question regarding determining the sheet angle is the same, whether the particular boat design has a bigger main or not...