10 Day Maine Itinerary w/ a 3 year old.

PaulK · Aug 21, 2020

Based on the reception we had a while back and more recent reports about it, (spoke last week with someone whose family has a house there) you might want to skip Vinalhaven. Covid fears seem to be adding to locals' general animosity. North Haven is much happier to see cruising sailors. Pulpit Harbor is nice too. Deer Isle (Stonington, Merchant's Row, etc.) is also worth a visit. Frenchboro is on your route as well - great lobster spot and pretty flowers. Trust you already signed up for the Island Trail Association. Maine Island Trail Association

Getting in or out of S.Freeport is exciting with the tide running! Maybe a stop on a mooring at Eagle would change it up a bit on the return. Don't know if the house tour there is running or not this summer, but there are nice paths through the woods.

TomY · Aug 22, 2020

HobieDog said:
Hi all -

My wife and I are planning a 10 day trip during the first week of September. Our boat is on a mooring in South Freeport, and we sail that area of Casco Bay every weekend. For this trip we'd like to get farther NE. This is our second season up here, and last year we only made it as far as Monhegan. The weather wasn't great and would have made for rougher conditions than we wanted to have our daughter on board for, plus we fell in love with Monhegan and enjoyed every hike it had to offer.

We have a 3 year old daughter, and for her benefit we try not to push the actual sailing time too long. She naps extremely well when underway (better than anywhere else, even with a fair amount of heel and waves), and so we typically try to do most of our sailing during nap time and maybe a couple hours before or after. Then we like to get somewhere and explore with hikes, tidal pools, etc. So, figure on 4-6 hours of sailing per day. An overnight passage is very likely out of the question, but I am not opposed to an early start for a few hours, stopping somewhere, and then maybe a little farther during midday nap before stopping somewhere else, and maybe even a little farther at night time. Or a late sail during dinner, etc.

We love remote islands like Jewell, Seguin, Monhegan and lots of hiking (especially more-so now with Covid). We'll need to refill water tanks after ~4-5 days. Ice wouldn't be bad at that point too, but not a necessity (especially if we plan for not having it). Boat is a Pearson 31-2 and we can figure 4-6 knots. I'm also not shy about starting up the diesel and motorsailing if it is the difference between making it to a desirable anchorage or not. That may be controversial, but it's the reality of our situation given that we want our daughter to have enough off-boat time to explore new islands. She's a busy kid and the bucket of water in the cockpit with all of her toys only gets us so far before she needs to RUN.

Below is our idea so far. The only places we *need* to see are Jewell at the beginning and end (my brother is the caretaker of the island and will hopefully be watching our pup for us this year. We may bring the pup along which could strike Jewell off the list) and Monhegan for at least a day. Seguin is nice, but the anchorage has always been a bit rolly and when we were there earlier this year the moorings looked pretty rough. Maybe it'll become a stopover for lunch on this trip.

Anything we're missing or that we should otherwise definitely do? Especially in the Vinalhaven area as we've never been there. Calm anchorages are a plus.

S Freeport to Jewell Saturday
Jewell to Seguin Sunday
Seguin to Monhegan Monday
Monhegan to Tenants Harbor (water, pumpout if needed) Tuesday
Tenants to Vinalhaven (Seal Cove?) Wednesday
Vinalhaven (hike and explore for the day) Thursday
Vinalhaven to Monhegan Friday
Monhegan to Seguin Saturday
Seguin to Jewell Sunday

You remind me of the delightful years we had sailing with our daughter and son when they were young. I sailed for them and whatever made them happy.

We essentially sailed from beach to beach along much of the east coast, for years. Sometimes I would pack a few more miles in a day by starting before dawn. Sail or even power (half throttle to keep the noise down), the familiar motion would make them settle into their berths for another hour or two for some extra miles.

How did you fare for a mooring at Monhegan? Was the weather agreeable to stay on the boat? Monhegan is beautiful but can be challenging on your boat.

I'd only say that instead of going directly to Vinalhaven, start in the Fox Island Thoroughfare. The Thoroughfare is one of my favorite places to sail and I live less than 10 miles (as the crow flies) away.

From there, you can find anchorages, beaches, villages on both North Haven and Vinalhaven and easily get to Seal Bay (which had many boats anchored just a few days ago, but we were alone way up Winter Harbor).

We just spent a couple days in Carvers Harbor. Carvers is always interesting but as mentioned, on the water at least, it can be the Wild West. We had no trouble though.

Like everywhere, there were more visitors than I expected. Good stop for provisions, block ice, nice coffee stops and take away stops. The coast of Maine is a cultural squall, especially on the islands like Vinalhaven which have year-round communities. .

RoyS · Aug 22, 2020

Consider taking a ferry to Monhegan instead of sailing there.

TomY · Aug 22, 2020

PaulK said:
Based on the reception we had a while back and more recent reports about it, (spoke last week with someone whose family has a house there) you might want to skip Vinalhaven. Covid fears seem to be adding to locals' general animosity.

I'd love to hear about your experience and recent reports.

We just spent an overnight in Carvers Harbor. On our few previous visits we anchored outside. It was quite a show in the harbor!

We took a lone mooring way in with RENTAL on it. Funny thing, nobody came to charge us (we're familiar with the local ruse to charge for moorings even if you're not the 'keeper').

There's a whole transient fishing labor culture (and that can be sketchy), but with Covid and the resultant fall of demand in lobsters, the whole Maine fishing industry in flux.

Outside of the typical fisherman stuff like throwing garbage overboard (watched 2 nearby fishing boats do that), the graphic drug induced boat names,...

, a whole scale truck burnout at sunset that raised a cloud of dust in a parking lot that looked like a tornado was there, it was only a couple of guys on very high performance PWC that leered our way, that made me decide to lock the boat (first time I've ever done that) before going ashore.

Poverty, high drug use in the fishing industry coupled with a crash in demand is making life difficult for many out there. With no real police, it is indeed the wild west on the harbor. It always has been in Carvers.

But most fishermen and regular people just making a living so we had no problem sitting there on our old sailboat. One guy did a "ho ho ho" going by CHRISTMAS, which made me chuckle.

On shore though, things have changed on Vinalhaven as a younger resident is going more in the 'coastal' direction, in life philosophy. This makes for a political mess especially out on the harbor (political banners, with profanity added, of which side I'll not discuss

). Masks were the rule and everyone abides, or doesn't do business in town (which many don't, that's a Maine island problem Covid or not).

We saw a recent post on AC on staying in Carvers, that started, "Just don't,...."

Ok, I'm a voyeur of culture clashes so I took a lot of photos. Vinalhaven has around 1200 year round residents and hundreds of second homes dotting the outskirts of the island. It's amazing the whole island doesn't burn, weekly.

But all in all, we had a good night in Carvers. It's fun to visit; I wouldn't live in town for all the tea in China.

PaulK · Aug 22, 2020

We put in to Carver's several years ago and were unable to find the marina/moorings that were mentioned in Taft's Guide. After asking people on several moored lobster boats, one of the less-sullen fishermen on a lobster float (most of them just glared) told us there were transient town moorings out the other side of Potato Island. We took one of those, and put our payment in the box on top of it as the written instructions said. Because it is outside of the harbor itself, lobster boats cruised by at full speed, throwing big wakes. It was about a half-mile dinghy ride in to the town pier. Had a pleasant enough dinner at one of the restaurants but that was about it. Vinalhaven was the only place we've been to in Maine that seems to have a hostile attitude towards recreational sailors. We've been to Portland, Orr's Island, Harpswell, So. Freeport, Falmouth, Peaks, North Haven, Pulpit Harbor, Tenant's Harbor, Camden, Frenchboro, Blue Hill, Northeast Harbor, Rockport, Northport, Little Cranberry, Great Cranberry, Stonington, Seal Cove, Brooklin, Buck's Harbor, and others where plenty of lobster fishermen operate and are friendly, too. Your reception may have been warmer with a Maine hailing port, but even you locked up before heading ashore. Most recently we heard that some full-time Vinalhaveners chased homeowners off the island - cutting trees to block the roads - because they thought they might be importing Covid infection. Have to concur with the AC poster you mention. Vinalhaven? "Just don't."

TomY · Aug 23, 2020

We went all the way into Carvers Harbor looking for a supposed rental mooring referred to on AC I pulled up on Navionics. Sure enough there was one marked RENTAL. But there was no bottle to deposit $ or check (Maine, checks are good as cash). Way inside and on a Sunday night, we had a birdseye view of this real working harbor. It was still as glass.

It would be brutal outside, as fishermen - the vast majority at least - have no concept of 'wake' or 'no wake'. But that's hard not to take personally when you get rolled on your beam ends, I know!

The reports of Covid vigilanteism from your friends were true, we live less than 10 miles away and it was local news. Plus there's been a murder out there since come to think of it. Poverty (extreme), lack of education, Vinalhaven has a tough side. On the other hand, a local entrepreneurial movement and young families moving there has had an effect. The museum renovation (late Robert Indiana) is ongoing, downtown was a buzz with tourists (Covid escapees). Cafe's had great fare available, we bought lobsters from the 'gas station' (which has hoses both to the street and docks), used the full grocery, bought block ice and even utilized the full recycling center to get rid of our disposables and trash.

Out on the water in a sailboat, you're on another planet, with no laws. But I get the sense that most of the fishing community are honest people and that sets the bar. It was quite a show on Monday morning but thankfully no wakes inside.

Carvers Harbor BS crazy fishing boat.jpg

PaulK · Aug 26, 2020

North Haven is more rustic than some other places. They have water and diesel at Brown's, but the showers we were directed to were...interesting. How much do you really need a shower, anyway? Get a bucket and soap up in the cockpit. Our copy of Taft's "Cruising Guide to the Maine Coast" does not mention a pumpout there.

TomY · Aug 27, 2020

There's no working pump-out once you leave the west coast of Penobscot Bay. Rockland, Rockport and Camden Harbors all have them as well as coin-op laundry, provisions, ice water and easy diesel. Tank up - out there as well as provision, ice, etc. Plus try to limit your garbage as most of the islands won't take it.

Diesel and water are available at Browns as well as bathrooms with a $25 mooring. Never used the showers but they got an upgrade in the last few seasons. There is also a laundry there but no experience with it.

Great provisions as well as take away food at Calderwood Market. There's a small brewery there too, ice cream stand and more take-away at Calderwood Hall. It's a great place for kids to spend some time, bring your masks of course.

We overnighted on Matinicus many years ago when the kids were young. Rustic, a little exposed in the harbor. There are a couple/few rental moorings I believe. It's another 'tricky' place for sailors. But the island is spectacular and lightly populated.

The best and most current info on cruising the coast of Maine is on Facebook.

Maine Sailing and Cruising is a private group but you'll be signed right up. That will give you up to the minute info on all the places you've asked about. In fact, a guy I know is on or just left Matinicus after a night and is posting from there. He and his wife then went onto Ragged Island. Many members with kids so that up to date info is invaluable. About 1500 members that all sail and love this coast. I'm just a posting member, not connected.

TomY · Aug 27, 2020

HobieDog said:
It really is an amazing time to be spending together as a family. It's been incredible to see it all through my daughters eyes. I feel like we're building lifetime memories.

Truly, you are building a lifetime of memories. The sailing life binds us together with all those experiences on the water.

Our kids are both grown and on their own and we still get together on the water. Sailing infuses everything, even the family texts.

sailme88 · Aug 27, 2020

This book is a great reference..Each location has, like Monhegan has it's NOAA chart listing..

S Freeport to Jewell	Saturday
Jewell to Seguin	Sunday
Seguin to Monhegan	Monday
Monhegan to Tenants Harbor (water, pumpout if needed)	Tuesday
Tenants to Vinalhaven (Seal Cove?)	Wednesday
Vinalhaven (hike and explore for the day)	Thursday
Vinalhaven to Monhegan	Friday
Monhegan to Seguin	Saturday
Seguin to Jewell	Sunday