1-Transmission oil; 2-New Sail

[steveebryant]

1) I have a 1989 Hunter 30 with an 18 hp Yanmar 2GM20F diesel engine. What, using today's terminology, oil or fluid should I be using in the transmission<original with the boat>?
(The owners manual speaks only of a fluid appropriate as "CD" ???)

2) I am now looking for a new sail for my boat. I'd like a heavy durable "clothlike" fabric. Where is a good place to buy one?

Thanks for your help,
Steve

 

[steveebryant]

I did discover the following via search:
The 2GM20 is either mated to a Kanzaki KM2C or a KM2P transmission. Design is the same for both transmissions except for the shifting mechanism. Both use motor oil as a lubricant and the recommended viscosity is SAE 10W-30. A change of oil is recommended every 250 hours of operation. My personal opinion is that here is where a top grade synthetic oil shines. It is more heat resistant and maintains viscocity over a longer period of time doubling or tripleting the maintenance schedule. Our H320 equipped with the 2GM20F came from the dealer with ATF in the transmission. No ill effect was noticed except that we would have to add a couple of ounces every 30-50 hours. After checking with the engine manual we contacted the dealer and they still swore that ATF was the correct fluid. Yanmar confirmed motor oil was the correct one but that no damage could be expected from the use of ATF. I gathered that is as long as the proper level is maintained. We switched to synthetic motor oil and have not had a problem with the oil level since.

I AM NOW LOOKING FOR OPINIONS ON SAILS BOTH USED AND NEW.

Thanks for you comments,
Steve

 

[kloudie1]

Yanmar recommends same oil as in your engine for the transmission (clutch) .
CD is an American Petroleum Institute (API) rating for diesel engine oil. C means "compression ignition" and "D" is the severity rating for the oil.. A "D" or later letter .. Later letters are higher rated oils.. Today's oils are in the "C J" range which is the appropriate oil for your engine and transmission. Don't use a synthetiic in the transmission because it may let the clutch cones slip .. Something like Shell Rotella T 15w-40 or its equivalent in the other major brands (Chevron, Mobil, etc) is fine.

 

[steveebryant]

Thank you for your response; let me ask for further clarification, please:

1. Okay, I should use the same oil in the "transmission/cluch" as I use in the engine, correct?

2. Will there be any posibility of harm in using 5/30 weight oil in either the engine or the transmission/cluch?

Thank you Claude,

Steve
Oklahoma City, OK

 

[kloudie1]

It is important to use diesel rated oil in the engine.. This is the "C*" rating on the bottle.. I don't think there is a CF or CJ-4 oil available in that weight range, 5/30.. That oil would probably be OK in the transmission It is probably an API "SM" rated oil which is "spark ignition" and not diesel oil. but if it has the "C-" rating it will be fine in the engine too..If ya already have that in the engine, it won't be a problem in the short term .. just change to the proper oil at next change.. Diesel oils can carry a lot more soot and contaminants for a longer time than gasoline oils..Diesels contaminate their oil a lot more than gasoline engines because of the high compression ratios and the high compression pressures developed..
Answers specifically:
1. Yes, because it becomes easier to carry spare oil.. but the transmission can use regular gasoline rated oil OR diesel rated oil. The engine should have diesel rated oil.
2. If the oil is rated (the letters/numbers in the circle on the back of the bottle) as diesel oil, it is fine.. If not, there is not sufficient risk of damage in one oil change interval to warrant changing the oil out; but when you change it out, do use diesel oil..
Hope this helps

 

[stephen Penny]

1. According to the manual the required engine oil is API classification 30 and ASE viscosity 14W30 and required transmission oil ASE viscosity is 30. I can send you the manual if you want one. Please e-mail me at stevejpenny@comcast.net. Contact Barbara at Golden State Marine in Oakland, CA at 510-465-1093 to confirm. She is the local expert.

2. I replaced my main and head sails this year with 8.3 oz Challenger high modulus dacron blue-water sails with 2+2 battons for SF bay sailing 20+ knots. I visited local sail lofts - UK Halsey, Doyle, Pinnapple, Lee, North and spoke to sbo.com and obtained prices from each. UK Halsey (Alameda, CA) was the only loft to show up and measure the new sails to ensure my new sail sizes were maximized. UK Halsey fabricated and installed the new sails 3 weeks from order. Make sure you get tell-tails, 2 main sail reef points, leech lines and geneoa luft flatener. I purchased a 2+2 battoned main. You need to consider main batton arrangement and whether you need battons, a 2+2 batton arrangement or full battons. I purchased a 110% jeneoa which is typical for San Francisco high summer wind conditions and suitable all year around. (I have a 150% back-up). You will need to consider the appropriate geneoa size for your sailing area.

 

[Steve Dion]

I would recommend that you DO NOT use synthetic oil in an older engine. This is a recipe for leaks in an older engine. Unlike an automotive engine that endures stop and go driving in temperatures from 30 below zero to 120 degrees above, you Yanmar will never see these extremes.

Yanmar specs these engine to run between 10,000 - 12,000 hrs on petroleum based lubricants. How much longer do you think the engine will last? Change you oil on an annual basis along with a factory filter, adjust your valves every 500 hrs and keep your fuel supply clean and free of water.

As I remember Yanmar has changed their specs from 30 wt Cx oil to 15-40 wt. I assume that the same goes for the transmission, but you should check it out with a manual or a Yanmar dealer. If your transmission requires something other than engine oil, I would ONLY use what they suggest.

If you want a good quality sail, I suggest you take a look at the store on this website. They have quality sails at very good prices.

 

[heart of gold]

Sail

I priced out my new 8.8 full batton main from several sailmakers for my H34 over the net, inicluding this site, which had good prices but due to duty, taxes, etc., and personal service, I went with Leitch and McBride locally in Vancouver, Can. Turns out they have their sails made by Sobstead sails in Toronto Can. The the local representative came to the marina and made his own measurements. As this was my first new sail of this size, I appreciated the personal touch. I might add that it fits perfectly and sails a lot better.