1 gallon paint can pour spouts

[Nichole340]

Continuing on my “How To” series of questions. I’ve long wondered what others do to store unused, newly opened cans of bottom paint.
If you don’t use the whole gallon in your application, how do you keep it fresh for use next year?
I do use an ice pick to poke holes in the lid rim of the can to allow any drips to flow back down into the can. But the paint still dries in the can.
Do you use a pour spout attachment To pour off the amount you need?

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

I use propane or CO2 gas to displace oxygen just prior to resealing the lid. (both are heavier than air). I think it might help to preserve the paint, but I’m interested to hear other peoples ideas. I have also heard about laying plastic wrap on the surface of the paint to cut down on exposure to air, but never tried it.
Poking holes in the lid will of course lead to drying out. You need to be able to reseal the can. If the can is damaged in some way that prevents a good seal, then you can buy empty mixing/storage cans from any well equipped paint store that sells to the trade.

 

[Nichole340]

Never thought of CO2. I’m not poking holes in the lid though, it’s actually in the can rim the holds the lid to the can. The lid stays intact. But once that skin forms on the top of the paint its just a matter of time before you have the makings of an 6 pound weight.

 

[dlochner]

The culprit is dried paint in the can seal that prevents the lid from resealing completely, we all know that. The trick is to keep paint out of the sealing channel so the lid can reseal reasonably well. The other problem is distorting the lid when the can is opened. The lid gets distorted and the can doesn't seal. This is an issue with varnish and other paints.

It is better to prevent the paint (or varnish) from getting into the channel and if it does cleaning the channel before it dries. My solution is to ladle the paint (or varnish) into the roller tray or paint cup. With just a little bit of care no paint will land in the channel and if any does, it is easy to clean up with a paper towel and maybe a little solvent. While I have not done this with bottom paint, as my boat takes a gallon to paint, I have used this with varnish and it works well.

Another good practice is to cover the can with the lid or a rag to prevent the solvent from evaporating while you are painting. The low VOC paints can't lose much solvent before they get too thick to apply.

Laying a piece of plastic film, like Saran Wrap, over the top of the paint remaining in the can will slow evaporation. Check to be sure the paint's solvents don't dissolve the plastic film. I have not tested this method.

 

[thinwater]

Much simpler. I have kept cans for many years.

Get a roll of aluminum duct tape (Nashua is good). Get the lid on anyway you can, and then tape the seal all around, one pass. It MUST be aluminum tape, because the metal makes it solvent impermeable. Works on all sorts of paint, though some skinning is unavoidable unless all of the air is removed. Best on bottom paint, least effective on varnish.

 

[Blitz]

 

[Blitz]

They sale these at most stores (HD, Ace, Lowe's, local hardware) for pouring which will keep lid clean. I always use it for my bottom paint. Easier to clean if want to reuse.

 

[rgranger]

Don’t let your paint freeze. Give the van a shake every now and again.

 

[senang]

When you close the lid for storage turn the can upside down for a moment. The paint will form a thin coat and seal any eventuall airleaks remaining.

 

[rgranger]

When you close the lid for storage turn the can upside down for a moment. The paint will form a thin coat and seal any eventuall airleaks remaining.

This makes sense.
I will store paints upside down if the paint has a lot of solids. Different reasons but I think upside down might become SOP

 

[jssailem]

I use Sherman Williams clean new empty cans. They are not expensive. Come in quart, pint and 1/2gallon sizes. Transfer the fresh paint to the can and seal, making sure no paint is in the rim. Sharpie marker with date, color code marked on can lid. Stored in cool dry space. Will last about 18 months.

 

[Hello Below]

Decent reviews for this useful but pricey item.

Amazon - No Mess Paint Can Lid w/Integrated Pour Spout

 

[Project_Mayhem]

I've had luck with simply leaving normal, ablative bottom paint and one part barrier coating in the can. I had the bottom paint for 2-3 years and the barrier coating is on year 5 with no signs of deterioration.

VC17 seems to be fine if left in a well sealed container such as the can. I doubt it'd last longer than a year. I had a not so well sealed container last nearly through the off season

The culprit is dried paint in the can seal that prevents the lid from resealing completely, we all know that. The trick is to keep paint out of the sealing channel so the lid can reseal reasonably well. The other problem is distorting the lid when the can is opened. The lid gets distorted and the can doesn't seal. This is an issue with varnish and other paints.

Putting some seran wrap over the top of the can before putting the lid on prevents it from sticking. I used this trick with Chassis Saver which dries hard as a rock and is as tough as steel ...at least until the sun hits it

 

[Mark Maulden]

Go to a wine store and get a spray can of nitrogen. Couple quick shots in the can and put the lid on neatly. Nitrogen will settle over the top surface and seal it..

 

[mdidomenico]

i use 5 gallon buckets that have resealable gasket lids.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/United-Solutions-12-41-in-White-Plastic-Bucket-Lid/1000458801

plus this

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-10-07-in-x-12-2-in-Metal-Paint-Grid/999993330

the paint seems to stay fresh with the epdm seal and i just i mix new paint the next year with whatever's left over. using the grid saves on paint trays and it's less messy

 

[rbringle]

I have had good results with storing paint/varnish cans upside down.

 

[rgranger]

Nitrogen will settle over the top surface and seal it..

Air is 79% nitrogen... your positive results are more likely from the fact that you are displacing some oxygen and water vapor.... but there is no "settling" going on. On the other hand CO2 is 50% more dense than air. That would settle... not sure it would be a good choice or not. If there is any water in the system, the CO2 would react with water to make carbonic acid and that would lower the pH of the system.

 

[thinwater]

Much simpler. I have kept cans for many years.

Get a roll of aluminum duct tape (Nashua is good). Get the lid on anyway you can, and then tape the seal all around, one pass. It MUST be aluminum tape, because the metal makes it solvent impermeable. Works on all sorts of paint, though some skinning is unavoidable unless all of the air is removed. Best on bottom paint, least effective on varnish.

I've kept bottom paint for two years many times by sealing with aluminum duck tape. Simple, works every time, does not matter if the rim seals. The tape is gas-impermiable. Simple.

 

[Richard19068]

Air is 79% nitrogen... your positive results are more likely from the fact that you are displacing some oxygen and water vapor....

Yes but the spray nitrogen is -0- % oxygen and it is the oxygen that you don't want.

For me the spray nitrogen combined with storing upside down has worked very well.

First displace the air (21% oxygen) then keep any more air (oxygen) from getting in.