I contacted HunterOwners, but no response from them or Marlow-Hunter. These "windows" are made of 1/2-inch thick acrylic and are are a complex curve to conform to the curve of the deck. After 12 years in the Keys, they are crazed for the first 32-nd or so. I'd spend the money if I could just buy them, but failing that, I'm gong to wet-sand and polish them. Any advice?
1/2 thick curved fixed windows in the overhead are crazed. Who makes new ones? 2004 H36
- Thread starter sailboss
- Start date
Sounds similar to our Hunter 40.5 that spent a lot of time in Florida. No one was making ours so we had them custom made at a repair yard in Mexico. We used a produce called Makrolon which was recommended to us. Difficult job for an amateur, but not impossible for sure. We had a nice job done, beautiful to see out again, shaping the sealant to factory finish could prove tricky. I doubt you will find an off the shelf product, but any good yard should be able to do it for you. I'm pretty sure the wet sanding and polishing is not going to be a satisfactory solution for you.
Try Meguires plastic X
I have used it on clear plastic with pad on portable drill
with great success.
Nick
I have used it on clear plastic with pad on portable drill
with great success.
Nick
The in hull port lights on my 356 were very hazy and I used toothpaste with an electric polisher followed by Brasso then a protective wax polish. This worked well and was great to be able to see out. The overhead windows have crazed but I haven't tried the same on these as I think the crazing my be deeper than would polish out.
Andrew
Andrew
The problem you will find is that crazing is a result of the plastic breaking down. Most likely it is Polycarbonate, as Acrylic should not craze unless it has a coating on it. Even if you can polish it out, I doubt it will last, as once it starts to break down, the end is near.
I had all mine replaced with a local SoCal source who specializes in it. I would look for a plastic fabricator. Will require some sleuthing. They need to have an oven to fabricate the curved cabin top ports. My technician said domestically sourced good quality cast acrylic is important. (It is not polycarbonate). I think you will see that the crazing is not surface, but there is no harm in trying some abrasive products. Just do a small area first. Good luck! There are lots of threads on the type of adhesive/sealant to use and how to bed them. Get someone who knows what they are doing. Too big for trial & error!
My opinion about it not being Acrylic is based on the fact that pure Acrylic is transparent to UV, so it should not weather. I've had motorcycle windshields sit out in the sun for years and years, yet no crazing.
BTY: I'm not familiar with how wild the bend is, but I have custom bent several pieces of Acrylic with a paint stripper gun. Basically all you need is some sort of clamping mechanism to hold it, and then gradually heat up the area you want to bend. If you don't get it exactly right, you can heat it again and reshape it. You just need to be careful not to get it too hot, as it will bubble the surface.
BTY: I'm not familiar with how wild the bend is, but I have custom bent several pieces of Acrylic with a paint stripper gun. Basically all you need is some sort of clamping mechanism to hold it, and then gradually heat up the area you want to bend. If you don't get it exactly right, you can heat it again and reshape it. You just need to be careful not to get it too hot, as it will bubble the surface.
Not sure who makes the replacement, but I can help you with something else.
I did a major write-up on the forum on how to remove the windshields.
Use my method, and it will be out in less than an hour with no problems.
Good luck
Try... http://www.estreetplastics.com
I bought 1/2" thick Plexiglass Acrylic from them to replace the lenses in Lewmar hatches, for My Hunter 376. Good stuff, it cut and drilled beautifully. The web site lists the stock sizes they have, but it also says they supply other sizes on request. I found their price and delivery time were very good.
The tricky part will be getting it bent. I think it has to be heated in an oven, where it just settles into the curvature of a form. So, unless you can find the guys that made the originals, a form may have to be made from your existing part.
Getting the old windows out should be quite easy. The sealant is probably Dow Corning 795, which can be cut with a razor knife or piano wire. Be sure to order some 795 ahead of time, as it's generally not available in chandlers or hardware stores. McMaster Carr is a good source if you can't find it locally. Sometimes a glazing company that does commercial glazing work will have some.
I bought 1/2" thick Plexiglass Acrylic from them to replace the lenses in Lewmar hatches, for My Hunter 376. Good stuff, it cut and drilled beautifully. The web site lists the stock sizes they have, but it also says they supply other sizes on request. I found their price and delivery time were very good.
The tricky part will be getting it bent. I think it has to be heated in an oven, where it just settles into the curvature of a form. So, unless you can find the guys that made the originals, a form may have to be made from your existing part.
Getting the old windows out should be quite easy. The sealant is probably Dow Corning 795, which can be cut with a razor knife or piano wire. Be sure to order some 795 ahead of time, as it's generally not available in chandlers or hardware stores. McMaster Carr is a good source if you can't find it locally. Sometimes a glazing company that does commercial glazing work will have some.
Here Florida I keep all over head windows and Hatches
covered with dark blue canvas and has so far kept my windows clear.
Nick
covered with dark blue canvas and has so far kept my windows clear.
Nick
