2004 Hunter 41 Bilge Cracks

[spadaforaj]

I almost hate to have an answer, but are these outline cracks something to be concerned about ? I had not seen them until we had the keel bolts torqued to spec. Thanks all……

 

[kappykaplan]

Looks like cracks in the paint to me.

 

[shemandr]

Or tabbing.
No grounding?
It looks dry. There's sealant around the keel stub to keel joint. I doubt it's compromised. You could grab a mask and take a look at the outside. That might make you feel better - or not. There could well be a smile there but what would that mean?
You're in the NE so you'll likely be hauling soon. You can have a more definitive look at then.
Or you could ask whoever torqued the bolts to have a look. Chip out some of loose stuff and see what's underneath.

 

[BigEasy]

Appears to be fracture of gel coat in bottom of bilge.
If your bilge is dry, no corrosion on keel bolts, nuts, & backing plates; is it best practice to leave things as is versus retorquing keel bolts that can cause fracturing of gel coat?

 

[spadaforaj]

Or tabbing.
No grounding?
It looks dry. There's sealant around the keel stub to keel joint. I doubt it's compromised. You could grab a mask and take a look at the outside. That might make you feel better - or not. There could well be a smile there but what would that mean?
You're in the NE so you'll likely be hauling soon. You can have a more definitive look at then.
Or you could ask whoever torqued the bolts to have a look. Chip out some of loose stuff and see what's underneath.

Thanks - some groundings but in soft mud at low speed (Chesapeake bay and Pamlico sound, mostly) Its dry because I had just emptied it out - but the water that was there mostly looked and tasted like freshwater (vs bay water), maybe condensate from defrosting fridge or some rain water making its way to the bilge. I'll take a real close look at the hull to keel joint when it comes out, alot of paint over it, but it needs a sanding and new paint anyway - guess that is the best plan then.

 

[jssailem]

That

guess that is the best plan then.

That is what I would do. Inspection is the best practice. Grounding is a grounding be it soft or a hard stop.

Have you ever bumped a car fender. We name it a fender bender. Even though no damage is apparent the bolted parts can get misaligned. That normally smooth car line gets a little distorted.

Your keel sits 5 to 6 feet beneath the hull like a teeter totter. The hull joint is in the middle. There is some giveaway (flexibility) but not a lot. The system is not designed to repeatedly be tested.

That is why inspection is recommended after all groundings.

The old long keel boats were more forgiving. They could be beached and not be damaged as the keel was an integral part of the hull.