I have a, new to me, Capri 18 and was wondering about the current set up for the jib. Current set up has the jib sheet track and winch on the cabin top with a jam cleat. There are cam cleats on the deck aft. Should the jib sheets route outside the shrouds then back to the jam cleat. Since I single handle the boat, would I be better off changing to clam cleats on the cabin top? The boat does have lifelines all around so would I want to reroute jib sheets to the stantions then back to the cockpit? My in-law has a newer Capri 18 that has the second set of winches on the deck about mid cockpit along with the clam cleats. As the cold wind is blowing and the snow is falling, just wondering if I should make any adjustments to make handling easier. Or am I just thinking too much looking for winter and spring projects?
Capri 18
- Thread starter Blefler
- Start date
I'm assuming you have a 110 or smaller jib.
if you route the jib sheets outside the shrouds you will not be able to sheet the jib in as tightly. That would impact your ability to point the boat. And, sheeting aft without a jib cart somewhere forward would probably create more twist in the jib than desired.
I would prefer cam cleats to jam cleats for jib sheets.
if you route the jib sheets outside the shrouds you will not be able to sheet the jib in as tightly. That would impact your ability to point the boat. And, sheeting aft without a jib cart somewhere forward would probably create more twist in the jib than desired.
I would prefer cam cleats to jam cleats for jib sheets.
You can treat the jib "lead" block location separately for the winch and cleat location. The lead block position will relate directly to the trim of the sail, while the winch location will depend on your preference. So my advice is to get your jib lead located first. If you're using a movable car on a track for the jib lead you are able to make trim adjustments for changing conditions and points of sail. With out a track mounted lead you must make sure the block is in the SAIL'S neutral position.... which means the force, or tension, on the FOOT (bottom edge) and the LEECH (trailing edge) us equal. If you using a track, then the neutral position should be at the track's mid point... giving you the same amounts or forward or backward adjustment.(i.e. same number of pin holes} Here's how you determine the neutral point on your head sail. You want to bisect the angle created at the sail's clew *lower rear corner) by the leech and foot. That can be done geometrically by extending a line from the mid point of the sail's LUFF (leading edge) through the clew. It may be easier to do this when the sail is laying down flat... or you can be creative with a tape, ruler or even a small protractor. Next, hoist the sail and use the sheet to extend the bisecting line to the deck.... this point is the Neutral location. NOW... does it make sense that the neutral point's actual deck attaching location will be determined by this angled, bisecting line.... of course. If you want the lead closer to you while sitting at the helm, use the sheet and your bisect angle to find the optimal position on deck or coaming.
Now the winch's location should be placed to allow the sheet to enter the drum at about a 10% upward angle. Remember that you can use another small block or a fairlead between the jib lead and the winch to get the optimum entry angle.
As far as the lead block's lateral position (side to side): Run a line from the tack (the sail's front corner, that attaches to the bow) back to the lead block's neutral position and measure the angle it makes with the boat's center line. Aggressive racing boats with expensive sails will have pretty small angles, like 7 or 8 degrees. I think you'll be happy with 12 to 15 degrees. But if it's something you want to experiment with ( not a bad idea) then you might rig up a "Barber-Hauler". This is a device that you can set up to move the clew in board or out board. Do a google to see some examples. I've used my cabin top winches to rig up an in-haul barber hauler with a length of line and a bowline knot.
Okay......... get to it. Have fun.
Now the winch's location should be placed to allow the sheet to enter the drum at about a 10% upward angle. Remember that you can use another small block or a fairlead between the jib lead and the winch to get the optimum entry angle.
As far as the lead block's lateral position (side to side): Run a line from the tack (the sail's front corner, that attaches to the bow) back to the lead block's neutral position and measure the angle it makes with the boat's center line. Aggressive racing boats with expensive sails will have pretty small angles, like 7 or 8 degrees. I think you'll be happy with 12 to 15 degrees. But if it's something you want to experiment with ( not a bad idea) then you might rig up a "Barber-Hauler". This is a device that you can set up to move the clew in board or out board. Do a google to see some examples. I've used my cabin top winches to rig up an in-haul barber hauler with a length of line and a bowline knot.
Okay......... get to it. Have fun.