Running light corrosion

[jssailem]

I have used a product called Corrosion Block made by Lear Chemical.

Lear Chemical Research Corporation

Lear Chemical Research developing and compounding anti corrosion lubricants and greases, ACF-50, Corrosion Block, Corrosion Block Grease, Rust Block, effectively solving corrosion related problems in the Automotive, Aviation, Industrial, Marine, Motorcycle and Recreational industries.

learchem.com

Made for aerospace industry, it cleans up corrosion and protects the metal parts. It might help in your case.

 

[rgranger]

I have used a product called Corrosion Block made by Lear Chemical.

Good stuff and does the job but a bit spendy. It is just phosphoric acid and some fatty acid molecules (Lard) suspended in a water displacing solvent ... I am going to guess the solvent is a larger alcohol (like a butanol) or ethyl acetate (does it smell like fingernail polish remover???) but the solvent does not really matter much so long as it is water displacing and evaporates to leave behind the greasy film of fatty acids to coat the contacts.

From a chemical perspective...Lear's product is very similar to other rust prevention products .... just 30% more expensive. For example...

 

[jssailem]

Yes I agree it is pricey, but it seems to work better than the other products I have used. Better than WD-40. Not sure why.

I applied both to a pair of inexpensive master padlocks. I left them exposed to the marine experience for 3 months. The WD-40 lock was sticky when I tried to insert the key and resisted turning the key. There was visible corrosion beginning on the “chrome looking” lock arm.

By comparison the lock with CB on it functioned like new. No corrosion appearing on the lock body. So I applied CB to both locks. They now have been on the boat for about 13 months. The key slips in and out of the lock like new. The key turns and the tumblers move. The locks springs open. Not sure what smoke they put in the liquid, but so far it has not escaped the lock.