Isotherm Icebox Cooling Kit

Jul 3, 2021
42
Tartan 33R Lake Michigan
I installed an Isotherm Compact "2501" U200X000R11111AB along with a SBD00154XA 2 meter extension line set in my Tartan 33R about 2 months ago. It was keeping the icebox at ~40°F with the compressor cycling on and off as expected. If I put ice in the O evaporator, it would stay frozen. I have the thermostat sensing element attached to the O evaporator. And July and August were quite hot here in southeastern Wisconsin. About a week ago I noticed that the ice was melting and the icebox temperature had risen to 46°F. The compressor appeared to be running continuously. The air and water temperature are both about 70°F right now. After talking to Isotherm it was decided that my R-134a refrigerant charge was probably low.

I have purchased a 12 ounce can of R-134a (no sealant) with self sealing valve, not the older piercing style. The system only has a low side service port on the BD50, so I also purchased a cheap hose/gauge set up from Amazon: Amazon.com. The problem is that the service port is apparently what's called a 1/4" flare. The thread diameter is 11mm (7/16"). It does have a schrader valve in it. The hose/gauge has a quick connect fitting. I quicky discovered that the quick connect was not compatible with the 1/4" flare.

Then I purchased this: Amazon.com. The low side adapter threaded on, but I couldn't get the quick connect pushed on far enough to latch on. The quick connect latched onto the adapter just fine prior to being acrewed on to the 1/4" flare. I assumed that the schrader valve in the adapter would release the schrader valve in the 1/4" flare, but it seems to be bottoming out before the quick connect is on far enough to latch. Maybe you can't stack schrader valves. I think if I removed the schrader valve from the 1/4" flare it would probably work, but that would require opening the system up. I didn't want to do that right now.

The next step was to purchase a gauge/hose that had a 1/4" flare connection. Amazon.com This one seems to do it all. I was able to connect it to the can of R134a and the 1/4" flare service port.

I added refrigerant with the compressor running until I got 10 PSI on the gauge. The pressure goes up to 30-35 PSI when the compressor is off. That has restored the cooling and the compressor is cycling on/off as expected. The icebox is still at ~45°F, but with the thermostat sensor on the evaporator, it will take a while to cool the icebox contents down to ~40°F.

Isotherm tech support doesn't know anything about pressures, they only want to talk about a weighed charge. That would be 80 grams in my case. I don't currently have a vacuum pump, but will probably revisit this next boating season. I have a digital scale, but I don't see how you can get an accurate measurement with the hoses and fiddling with the valve on the can.

Any thoughts or suggestions on this will be appreciated.
IMG_2993.JPG


IMG_2995.JPG
 

capta

.
Jun 4, 2009
4,964
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
You might want to find the leak. Refrigerant does not get used up or break down. If and when you do open the system, add a sight glass. It can help identify system problems.
 
Jul 3, 2021
42
Tartan 33R Lake Michigan
You might want to find the leak. Refrigerant does not get used up or break down. If and when you do open the system, add a sight glass. It can help identify system problems.
I just ordered this vacuum pump kit on Amazon: Amazon Vacuum Pump Kit. It comes with a leak detector, so I'll poke around with that and see if I can find the leak. Can't have too many tools.
 
  • Like
Likes: capta

capta

.
Jun 4, 2009
4,964
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
I just ordered this vacuum pump kit on Amazon: Amazon Vacuum Pump Kit. It comes with a leak detector, so I'll poke around with that and see if I can find the leak. Can't have too many tools.
When we moved ashore from Skipping Stone, that boat's waterline rose at least 4".
I assure you, our personal items couldn't possibly account for even an inch.