Any thoughts on why this is corroding?

Jul 7, 2024
60
Catalina 27 Lake Keowee
Turnbuckle from CatalinaDirect - should be stainless steel.
Mechanics wire - I thought stainless. Maybe not. Maybe zinc plated since only corrosion is where bends might have been made?
Inland lake.

I ordered some stainless mechanics wire.

Any alternate thoughts are appreciated.

turnbuckle_wire.jpg
 
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Jun 17, 2022
278
Hunter 380 Comox BC
Wrong type of wire... Never seen a turnbuckle locked like that.... use monel wire or 316 tig welding rod.

We're the threads lubricated before fitting the turnbuckle?
 
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Tedd

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Jul 25, 2013
793
TES 246 Versus Bowser, BC
Stainless wire is often 18-8 or 304, which aren't as corrosion-resistant as 316 (which the turnbuckle is probably made of). I think you can also get a little bit of galvanic reaction between them in a salt-water environment.
 
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Jan 11, 2014
13,070
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Stainless wire is often 18-8 or 304, which aren't as corrosion-resistant as 316 (which the turnbuckle is probably made of). I think you can also get a little bit of galvanic reaction between them in a salt-water environment.
That works, except the OP is on freshwater.

SS is still an iron product and I believe there can be residual iron on the surface of the SS that will rust. 18-8 and 304 can exhibit this. I'm sure a metallurgist could provide a much more in-depth explanation.

Not all SS rigging is 316. On freshwater boats 304 is often used which is more prone to showing rust stains.
 
Jun 2, 2004
3,567
Hunter 23.5 Fort Walton Yacht Club, Florida
It maybe stainless-steel safety wire, just not a high grade of stainless steel.

I'm trying to figure out the safety wire routing and I am baffled. It would certainly do the job but so would a simple loop or even a figure eight on each of the studs. I must be missing something.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,751
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
The Catalina web site says the threads inside the turnbuckle are bronze to prevent seizing. They are chromed for appearance. The corrosion is at the first coupling after the stud leaves the bronze threads.

Common and harmless.
 

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,224
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
In my 40 plus years of sailboat ownership I've never had a turnbuckle unscrew itself. The wire is overkill, unnecessary and could be dangerous unless wrapped with tape. Cotter rings (or split rings) are the more common method. Cotter pins are also common, just make sure you only bend ONE leg back at 45 deg so it's easy to remove, then wrap with tape so sails and ankles aren't scratched.
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,393
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
The safety wire approach is a bit overkill. In 2015 this question was asked and answered.

 

dLj

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Mar 23, 2017
4,459
Belliure 41 Back in the Chesapeake
In my 40 plus years of sailboat ownership I've never had a turnbuckle unscrew itself.
Wish I could say the same. I was on a sail boat delivery where we almost lost the mast because there were no cotter pins in one of the turn buckles. When I inspected that turn buckle had almost totally backed out...

dj
 
Jul 7, 2024
60
Catalina 27 Lake Keowee
Remove the wire and use split rings or cutter pins and wrap with tape or put canvas around it.
The boat had cotter pins originally. It was a PITA to get them removed (for boat hauling). They bent and there is little room to install or remove. I'll never use cotter pins again. Mechanics wire is too easy and does the trick. Run the wire through one hole and down to the other then twist. I believe I found the idea on this forum.

Also, @Joe I don't see the safety issue compared to a pin. Both are metal and both have ends. The end of the wire is tucked away easily inside the turnbuckle and none of it moves (probably the same could be done for cotter pins). Tape could be good, but tape also covers up issues and traps moisture.

Maybe a ring would work, but I don't see a ring or a pin stopping the turning. If turnbuckles don't ever turn, then why bother with a safety mechanism. They can turn, that is why. Always place your bets in the right games.
 

Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
8,224
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
The boat had cotter pins originally. It was a PITA to get them removed (for boat hauling). They bent and there is little room to install or remove. I'll never use cotter pins again. Mechanics wire is too easy and does the trick. Run the wire through one hole and down to the other then twist. I believe I found the idea on this forum.

Also, @Joe I don't see the safety issue compared to a pin. Both are metal and both have ends. The end of the wire is tucked away easily inside the turnbuckle and none of it moves (probably the same could be done for cotter pins). Tape could be good, but tape also covers up issues and traps moisture.

Maybe a ring would work, but I don't see a ring or a pin stopping the turning. If turnbuckles don't ever turn, then why bother with a safety mechanism. They can turn, that is why. Always place your bets in the right games.
I'm wondering then, why so many sailboats have NOT lost their rigging, since 95% use cotter pins or rings... or those little velcro things. Try turning the turnbuckle with a ring or pin still installed btw.

A cotter pin is super easy to remove if you just bend one leg no more than 90 deg (45-90) and use a pair of pliers or a cotter pin tool, which is like a screwdriver with a pointed end bent at a right angle to snag the pin and. Available in any hardware store.
Rigging tape is often used to wrap the area of the turnbuckle housing the cotter pin,,,, simply as a precaution to prevent a wayward pin from scratching a sail, since they are often in close proximity to the rigging. As long as only a small area of the turnbuckle is wrapped, no water is trapped....but water can be devious,,,,, so that's why you inspect your rigging on a regular basis,,, surely at the beginning of each sail.

Cotter rings take a little more time to open, but they are reusuable, and don't scratch anything so taping isn't really necessary. Oh, and the ring is wide enough to prevent the stud from making more than 1/4 turn plus there are usually two (top/bottom...even less)

If you're dead set on wire, then use Monel seizing wire.. the kind you use on your anchor shackle. But truthfully, it's a pain... and you'll see what I mean once you start using it. Go with the rings.... easy peasy.

The whole point is that you want to make your turnbuckles easy to adjust...because rigging will come out of adjustment, cotter pins, seizing wire, rings whatever. Btw if you have a boat that requires slacking the rigging on a regular basis...trailering, going under bridges etc.. there are alternatives to turnbuckles that are much friendlier to operate. Google "shroud adjusters" for examples.
Okey Doke, good luck, watch your fingers. :)
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,393
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
A cotter pin is super easy to remove
Too many owners want to save and reuse the cotter pin, which is a disposable item. Nip the bent end off, grab the other end with pliers, and pull it free. Toss it in the garbage, set the turnbuckle, install a new cotter pin, bend one leg, tape the pin and turnbuckle, and then go sailing.
 
Sep 24, 2018
3,525
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
Ive seen too many rings deform or be on the virge of falling out. I love them but they simply arent as reliable as other methods
 
May 29, 2018
606
Canel 25 foot Shiogama, japan
Timely.
I have split pins securing the turnbuckles.
They were /are wrapped with nice white electrical tape.
I read on the almighty internet that the absence of oxygen can cause corrosion, so I removed the tape.
Pulled the gennaker in on a windy day last week and it found that 1/32nd of protruding pin.
The electrical tape is back on and now I have to look at this.
Lesson is , USE RINGS and don't believe everything on the net.
IMG_20250801_151928.jpg


gary
 
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