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Media added by Joe11688
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A
1975 o'day 22
will be changing to led lights both mast and cabin along with nav lights. adding solar, adding bbq, rebedding all deck hardware and below water...
Oct 19, 2023
Looking forward to V-berth.
Wow.....dream home!
Sep 18, 2023
D
MacGregor 26s
Das sind Teakleisten, die aufgeklebt, dann mit Schwarzer Masse ausgegossen und geschliffen wurden. Sieht immer noch aus wie neu.....
Aug 25, 2023
P
Marilee-Interior.jpg
This interior is gorgeous! What type of boat is this in?
Jan 10, 2023
DSCN8846
CHILD LABOR
Aug 29, 2022
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DSC01479 Here we see the two boards that cover the pipe. You can see part of the pendant line pipe in the pic. This is where I place my 50 quart cooler and also a small waste basket in the upper left hand corner in the pic.
Joe11688
Dec 28, 2012
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DSC00627 In essence what we see in this pic is a Gin Pole with a small boat winch attached to it, pivot bridles, and the baby stays. It takes a little time to set this mast raising rig up but we only do this a couple of times a year, as we both rent moorings at the yacht club.
Joe11688
Feb 14, 2013
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DSC01156 The stainless steel Gin Pole for mast raising/lowering comes apart for easy stowing on board. I use this, plus my boom vang with extra long braid line attached, to do all my mast raising/lowering.
Joe11688
Dec 20, 2008
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1986 OD 222 Centerboard I made a sketch of my centerboard when I had it out. I also posted a sketch of my friend Ray's 86 O'Day 26 centerboard on this site in the download section.
Joe11688
Dec 28, 2012
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DSC00628 The stern rail as mentioned previously is very helpful for supporting the mast crutch. I favor this mast crutch set up because it allows you to mount your rudder on the stern at the ramp and launch your boat if you choose to raise your mast with the boat sitting at the dock. Having a roller inside the crutch allows you to roll the mast aft or forward instead of having to man handle it as I was doing for many years.
Joe11688
Feb 14, 2013
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DSC01059 A detachable hinged swing out bull horn for my VHF. I can have the horn pointed around the companionway hatch toward the cockpit and hear it. I mount the mike on my bell bracket, on the outside of the cabin bulkhead sometimes for easy access.
Joe11688
Dec 20, 2008
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DSC00729 This is what the companionway step looks like when it's in place along the sole plate covers. When I first bought my boat I had a heck of a time getting my cooler in the area behind this step. I had to remove the quarter birth cushions on the left in the picture, and slide the 48 quart cooler in, behind the step each time. Boy what a PITA that was!!! After I modified the step, it became easy to lift my 50 qt. cooler over the mounts after removing the step. Last year I omitted those two quarter birth cushions in those cubby holes under the cockpit seats. They really aren't needed and I gained more space for a second cooler and all my gear. My cabin looks less cluttered now and I have better access to my settee compartments in there.
Joe11688
Dec 28, 2012
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DSC00403 This is my 23' Long Trailer when I first brought it home. Unfortunately Long went out of business shortly after I bought this trailer. Such a shame. It too bad that some company somewhere can't manufacture the extension brackets for those bunks because they are the best I've seen on the market so far and they easy to adjust with the aid of a couple of jacks with the boat sitting on the trailer. That's how I adjusted all my brackets after I got the proper tongue weight, but that's another story. This trailer came with a thick rug covered keel board and I told the dealer to keep it. What you see in the pic is a couple of pressure treated sandwiched 2x10" planks held to the cross members with a couple of galvanized brackets that were given to me by the city power company. I picked up two brackets which are nothing more than a back strap, two 5/8" X 6.5" carriage bolts with washers and nuts. I have the carriage bolt heads counter sunk below the surface of the top plank where the keel sits. This insures that the keel won't hit the bolt heads. The plates bolt up against the bottom of each cross member. The only holes I have bored are through the wood planks and not the cross members. This works out great because I can loosen the carriage bolt nuts to loosen the back plates and be able to slide the keel board to one side or the other. I do this when I take my boat off the trailer in my yard and place her on boat stands, but that's another story. Those two guide that came with my trailer are great for centering my boat when I'm loading her on the trailer at the YC boat ramp. Some guys install keel guides but these guide are all you need, really.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC00423 For lack of a better term for his device, I've been calling it a mast yoke. It's main purpose is to anchor the temporary stays (baby stays) to the pivot bridles on each side of the boat. The baby stays offer some lateral stability in raising or lowering the mast. If you have a good roller reefing furler I recommend that you make up baby stays and pivot bridles if your boat is designed like this boat. If your boat's cabin top is designed like a MacGregor, you would only need the mast yoke and the baby stays. I firmly believe that this mast yoke would also work on an O'Day 25 or 26 in conjuntion with baby stays attached to the triangular plates, along with the boom bridles for over the bow mast raising.
Joe11688
Feb 14, 2013
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DSC01134 Polytarps make the boat a lot cooler on those 90 degree days.
Joe11688
Dec 20, 2008
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DSC00401 So what we have is a trailer that's about 23' long and 8' wide at the fenders. It's has four 14" wheels on tandem axles. The frame is Aluminum and the cross members are galvinized steel. There are six 24" galvy extension brackets that support the main section of the hull with two long bunks and four more 24" brackets with two short bunks for the bow support. I had to re-position the two short bow bunks and get them close together where the bow comes to a point. It was just a matter of taking the brackets off the bottom of the bunks, repositon them and drill and lag them into the desired position.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC00785 Anchor caddy with rope handles made from an old cut down milk crate.
Joe11688
Dec 20, 2008
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DSC00402 As you can see. These brackets are strong square stock galvy tube and they are completely adjustable. If you can't find brackets like these you may have to have them made up special or have a welder make up something like poppets for boat stands that you can adjust. I really don't know what to tell you on that.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC00775 Easy disconnect furler stay modification. Kind of Mickey Mouse, but it works great! Rudy said it would work with no problem, so I went ahead and did it.
Joe11688
Dec 20, 2008
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DSC00741 Here's what she looks like sitting on the trailer. I think the tongue weight is about 110 lbs. When I first bought the boat trailer, I brought it home and installed the sandwiched planks. Then I took two of my SB-3 Brownell's Boatyard stands with me, along with my bathroom scale. I had two jacks in my pickup truck to uses also. I don't think I even bothered messing with the two short bunks under the bow until I got my boat home on this trailer. The main bunks are the important ones that need to be set up. The bunks under the bow could be set up later on after I had the boat on the trailer.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC00742 Like a dumbbell, I left those two two schedule 80 2" PVC pipes on those guides while trailer the boat and the 2" cap on the one on this side broke. If you buy these guides, remove the pipe when you trailer the boat on the road. You only need them when your at the ramp.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC00740 My trailer is 23' long and 8' wide at the fenders. I'm pretty sure that my bunks are 4' apart at the stern as you're looking at it now. There are two long main bunks being held up by six 24" bunk extension brackets, three on each side. The two shorter bunks under the bow are held up by four of these brackets. The bracket are set approximately in the range of 20" to 22" from the top of the A frame to the top of the bunks.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC01201 These brackets are the best I've seen on the market today. As I mentioned previously, Long is out of business. They were located in Tarboro NC. Although there is another trailer company with that same name in NC, they are not and never have been affiliated with with the company that built my trailer. It' too bad because I'd love to see a company start manufacturing this long extension brackets for guys who own keel/centerboard sloops and want to trailer them. These brackets could fit any trailer cross member. They are really the only thing that makes converting an ordinary powerboat trailer into a sailboat trailer.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC01202 All I can say is, if someone knows where the machinery is to start manufacturing these extension brackets, they could make a mint just selling them on the market to the folks who want to convert powerboat trailer into sailboat trailer. "Nuf said" on that subject. As you can see in the pic though, all you need is a couple of jacks placed under these extension brackets and you can snug the bunks right up to the hull with the boat sitting on the trailer. It was as easy as that after I had got the proper tongue weight on the trailer. First I needed to get the boat out of the water. To do that I set the bunks just a shade higher. When I pulled the boat out of the water, the bottom of the keel was sitting about 1.5" off the keel board with the bunks taking the full weight of the boat. What you don't want is the keel sitting on the keel board and the bunks too low and have the boat leaning when you pull the trailer up the ramp. All I had to do is place two of my sailboat stands, one on each side of the stern to keep the boat straight and use a hydraulic jack under the bow of the boat and start lowering the boat so that the keel would sit squarely on the trailer's keel boat. I may have use four of my boat stands under the stern that day. I really don't remember. Four is always better than two especially under an O'Day 26 which I lifted for my friend Ray one day. After I was able to get the keel sitting on the keel board, I tightened the bunk brackets and unhooked the trailer from my truck and place a bathroom scale on some blocks under the trailer tongue. The trailer needs to be level when you get the weight reading. As it turned out, she was too tongue heavy so I had to back down the ramp and let the boat float back a little to lighten her up. A good rule of the is 5% to 10% for the tongue weight so you need to know what your boat weighs fully found to come up with a good tongue weight ratio. If there's too much weight at the end of the trailer, the trailer is going to fish tail as you're driving down the road. Too much weight up forward is not good either. After I got 110 lbs for my tongue weight, I placed two of my jacks under the center extension brackets under my main bunks and raise the bunks so that they would support the hull. I took measurements on these and came up with 18.5" from the top of the cross member to the top of each bunk on both sides and I tightened the bracket bolts up. Then I moved the jacks to the two front brackets and raise the ends of the bunks to get 21.5". This puts a bend in the bunk boards which conform to the hull nicely. The two back brackets came to 20.5". Just remember that these measurements are useless unless you have a similar make and model trailer as mine. As you can see, my cross members are straight. Some are curved. Also, the keel is sitting on two pressure treated planks which are secured to the top of the cross members. I didn't see a need to mess with the short bunks under the bow. They needed to be removed and repositioned to take on a V shape under my bow for good support and I could do that later after I got her home. All that was left was to move the winch stanchion back so that the bow is up against the pedestal's bow roller. I had to remove the stanchion and place it on the tongue, inside the trailer's A frame. It looks funny but that's where it needed to go after all, this trailer was built for a 23' boat don't sha' know. The boat floats on and off the trailer without swamping my truck and I have no need for an extension tongue. This is why I say, buy a longer trailer than needed for your boat and it can work for your boat, depending on the depth of your keel of course. My boat is an O'Day 222 Keel/centerboard sloop but I think that this rule of thumb will work for an O'Day 25 or 26. It may even work for an O'Day 272 wing keel sloop.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC01038 In mast raising with a roller furler connected to the mast the question arises; What do I do with the fuler while the mast is going up or coming down? Well, you could have the Mate hold and guide it with the mast, or if you're by yourself, you can tie the furler luff off to the Gin Pole as seen in the picture.
Joe11688
Feb 15, 2013
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IMG 0001 I use the "Lineman's Rolling Hitch" around the vinyl luff of the furler and then I take a round turn around the Gin Pole about 2/3s of the way out from the mast and secure it with two half hitches. The round turn with the half hitches can be seen in the pic just to the left of the furler luff. Now, with the excess line, take it around the vinyl luff and entrap it to the Gin Pole with a couple of half hitches around the Gin Pole.
Joe11688
Feb 15, 2013
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DSC01158 The pivot bridle shown in the picture is made up of two ropes, a large stainless steel ring and a couple of snap hooks. I have my pivot bridles pre-adjusted so that when they are connected and stretched out, the rings come even with the pivot point of the mast tabernacle. The thin line connected to the ring in this bridle is one of my baby stays which is attached to the mast yoke. The thicker rope is a bridle which is connected to the end of my Gin Pole. Note* If you make up a set of pivot bridles, it is important that you adjust the ropes so that they are even. This way, you can use them on either side of the boat.
Joe11688
Feb 15, 2013
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DSC01279 On an O'Day 222, the side stay chainplates are aft of the mast as seen in the picture. Where the snap hook is connected to the stay, I'm using a long thin stainless steel "D" shackle attached to a turnbuckle toggle and this is where it has to go. The other snap hook is attached to a pad eye mounted through my deck on both sides of my boat. Note* In making up your pivot bridles, you need to make all the rope adjustments first before mounting the pad eyes. This requires that you snap one end of the pivot bridle you are make up, into the stay shackle and also snap it into the pad eye and just make your rope length adjustment by stretching out the pivot bridle while holding the pad eye to the deck until you can make the ring height and rope length adjustment by eye balling it. Remember, what we need to do at this point is get the rope lengths even and the ring needs to be even with the pivot point of the mast. Once you've attained this, mark the location of the pad eye on the deck with a pencil and mount it. After you've completed the first pivot bridle you can use it as a pattern to make up your other bridle. Then you can test it out by connecting it to the stay shackle on the other side of the boat and the loose pad eye by stretching it out and eye balling it. Both pad eyes should be about the same distance away from the chainplate on both sides of the boat. When you're able to get it right, then you can mount the pad eye on that side of the boat. I'm no expert on this, believe me. The fist time I mounted the pad eyes on my deck, I screwed up and mounted them in the wrong place. Consequently my bridles were uneven and I had to remember that the short rope on each bridle had to be snapped to the pad eye on both sides of the boat. After a year or two I decided to remove the pad eyes and use this procedure in order to get my bridles even. This required boring four new holes and filling the other four holes with Fiberglas Epoxy mixed with filler. Hey listen. I have several other holes on my deck where I had removed useless hardware, another four holes ain't going to make any difference. I just want anyone who reads this to understand where I'm coming from. I've been through the school of hard knocks just like you have and I've had more than my share of screw ups.
Joe11688
Feb 15, 2013
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I have decided to use a single burner Origo 1500 instead of the two burner 3000 that I had been using for years. After changing my galley cabinet over I discovered that my table would no longer swing over the sink without hitting my two burner stove. The single burner stove will allow my table to swing over the sink if I slide the stove to Starboard.
Joe11688
Mar 5, 2012
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