IMG 1606 High density filler fairing was built up over 23 oz, 6" wide biaxial 45deg fiberglass cloth. Attaching it to lead is tricky. Lead will oxidize nearly immediately after sanding. Cut your cloth to fit, mix a big batch of West Systems G-Flex (without filler) and then use your sander across the intersection of lead and fiberglass. IMMEDIATELY roll a coat of "neat" G-Flex over the fresh lead. You will lap your 6" cloth half on the lead and half on the fiberglass, so make sure the sanding of the lead and the coating of G-Flex is 4" (wide enough to give you a clean, 1" margin of epoxy covering below the area of cloth). I used plastic drywall pans and 10" wide plastic spreaders to apply the fairing. Remember it won't stick reliably to oxidized lead, so stay above and within your epoxy margin edge. If you do go below it, accidentally onto the lead, sand that section off again (using a DA sander hooked to a shop vac) and reapply some more G-Flex. Between workdays, follow good practices, wash off "blush" from cured epoxy with dish soap and warm water. Then sand the new epoxy surface to remove the glossy surface (which gives it "teeth" for the next layer of fairing).
R

IMG 1606 High density filler fairing was built up over 23 oz, 6" wide biaxial 45deg fiberglass cloth. Attaching it to lead is tricky. Lead will oxidize nearly immediately after sanding. Cut your cloth to fit, mix a big batch of West Systems G-Flex (without filler) and then use your sander across the intersection of lead and fiberglass. IMMEDIATELY roll a coat of "neat" G-Flex over the fresh lead. You will lap your 6" cloth half on the lead and half on the fiberglass, so make sure the sanding of the lead and the coating of G-Flex is 4" (wide enough to give you a clean, 1" margin of epoxy covering below the area of cloth). I used plastic drywall pans and 10" wide plastic spreaders to apply the fairing. Remember it won't stick reliably to oxidized lead, so stay above and within your epoxy margin edge. If you do go below it, accidentally onto the lead, sand that section off again (using a DA sander hooked to a shop vac) and reapply some more G-Flex. Between workdays, follow good practices, wash off "blush" from cured epoxy with dish soap and warm water. Then sand the new epoxy surface to remove the glossy surface (which gives it "teeth" for the next layer of fairing).

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Belly of the Beast
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