DSC00981 This is what my board looks like. The board was easier to paint for the first time after I removed it. The pivot pin was still in good workable condition so I reused it.
DSC01014 This is what the forward edge of the bottom of my keel looks like. You can see where the plates fit on each side of the keel slot and also the rabbet grooves where the wedges fit in place. I think it's the best centerboard set up that was ever out on the market. Removing the bolts to the plates was a problem. I had two that were stubborn and it took hours to finally remove them. I used an impact driver which was very tiresome after a while because you need to bang the tool while laying on your back. It would be nice if I could tip the boat upside down and bang down on the tool but I honestly believe that a cordless electric drill/driver like a Makita with an adjustable clutch for the Phillips bit in the chuck would work a whole lot easier and better. Less tiresome too. I was told by Rudy Nickerson of D&R Marine http://www.drmarine.com/ that there are two bronze plates embedded into the lead on each side of this keel slot for the bolts to thread into. This is always good to know just in case you break a bolt and need to drill and re-tap the hole for threads.
DSC00404It was back in Septober or Octember of 2005 that I decided to bottom paint my boat. I hated to do it but it became a pain pulling it out of the water and cleaning marine growth. While I was at it I needed to paint the inside of the keel slot along with the centerboard. To do this the right way I decided to pull the centerboard out and check the pivot pin while I was at it.
DSC00982 This is all that holds that centerboard in place. You have the fiber pin in which the board pivots on, the two Fiberglas wedges shown below the pin, and the two stainless steel plates that bolt to the bottom of the keel on each side of the keel slot under each wedge. Four 1/4" Phillips head bolts hold the plates to the bottom of the keel. Also there are two S.S. wood screws that go through each of these plates and into the bottom of each wedge. It is important to remember that each of these wedges were adhered to the grooves in the keel slot with an adhesive caulking. This is what really holds that centerboard in place. Make no mistakes. If you neglect to use a good adhesive such as 3-M 4000 or 3-M 4200 to adhere these wedges you'll lose the wedges. You could lose the wood screws with no adverse effects to the board or wedges, but you need to have the wedges adhered to the grooves.
DSC00981 This is what my board looks like. The board was easier to paint for the first time after I removed it. The pivot pin was still in good workable condition so I reused it.
O'Day centerboard wedge set up: I'd like to take this opportunity right now to thank the guy who drew up this sketch and posted it on this forum. It's a great drawing and it illustrates how the pin is supported by the wedges and plates.
centerboard wedge hardware: Again, many thanks to person who made up this display. It came in real handy when I needed to guestimate the length of the wood screws that were missing from my plates several years ago.
IMG 0005b I bought this shackle off Rudy years ago. It's an improved centerboard shackle with a sheave or spool to protect the braid eye splice from getting frayed. The rigging pin has a cotter pin that needs to be checked annually. I found a broken cotter pin last year on it and replaced it. I'm glad I caught it. Actually this is only my second pendant line and since I installed it I've inverted it and re spliced it. The first pendant line wasn't all that bad. I believe that because there is a single sheave up inside the keel slot for this pendant line to ride through, there really isn't going to be much wear on the line. The O'Day 26 has this same identical set up with the single sheave. I'm sure this is because the pendant line pipe that comes down from the companion way step in the cockpit has an "L" shaped bend in it whereas the O'Day 23s and 25s have a straight pipe that lines up with the centerboard shackle attachment on the centerboard. I'm pretty sure that the 1983 O'Day 22 also has a straight shot to the centerboard.
Joe11688

DSC00981 This is what my board looks like. The board was easier to paint for the first time after I removed it. The pivot pin was still in good workable condition so I reused it.

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