IMG 1682, MADLEE 1984 Hull #3518, down to gelcoat, smile and stub repair (including about 25 small blisters), fairing, topsides buff, 5 coats of epoxy sealer, 3 coats of bottom ablative, new boot stripes. Ready to splash and to get her mast back.

IMG 1682, MADLEE 1984 Hull #3518, down to gelcoat, smile and stub repair (including about 25 small blisters), fairing, topsides buff, 5 coats of epoxy sealer, 3 coats of bottom ablative, new boot stripes. Ready to splash and to get her mast back.

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IMG 1606 High density filler fairing was built up over 23 oz, 6" wide biaxial 45deg fiberglass cloth. Attaching it to lead is tricky. Lead will oxidize nearly immediately after sanding. Cut your cloth to fit, mix a big batch of West Systems G-Flex (without filler) and then use your sander across the intersection of lead and fiberglass. IMMEDIATELY roll a coat of "neat" G-Flex over the fresh lead. You will lap your 6" cloth half on the lead and half on the fiberglass, so make sure the sanding of the lead and the coating of G-Flex is 4" (wide enough to give you a clean, 1" margin of epoxy covering below the area of cloth). I used plastic drywall pans and 10" wide plastic spreaders to apply the fairing. Remember it won't stick reliably to oxidized lead, so stay above and within your epoxy margin edge. If you do go below it, accidentally onto the lead, sand that section off again (using a DA sander hooked to a shop vac) and reapply some more G-Flex. Between workdays, follow good practices, wash off "blush" from cured epoxy with dish soap and warm water. Then sand the new epoxy surface to remove the glossy surface (which gives it "teeth" for the next layer of fairing).

IMG 1606 High density filler fairing was built up over 23 oz, 6" wide biaxial 45deg fiberglass cloth. Attaching it to lead is tricky. Lead will oxidize nearly immediately after sanding. Cut your cloth to fit, mix a big batch of West Systems G-Flex (without filler) and then use your sander across the intersection of lead and fiberglass. IMMEDIATELY roll a coat of "neat" G-Flex over the fresh lead. You will lap your 6" cloth half on the lead and half on the fiberglass, so make sure the sanding of the lead and the coating of G-Flex is 4" (wide enough to give you a clean, 1" margin of epoxy covering below the area of cloth). I used plastic drywall pans and 10" wide plastic spreaders to apply the fairing. Remember it won't stick reliably to oxidized lead, so stay above and within your epoxy margin edge. If you do go below it, accidentally onto the lead, sand that section off again (using a DA sander hooked to a shop vac) and reapply some more G-Flex. Between workdays, follow good practices, wash off "blush" from cured epoxy with dish soap and warm water. Then sand the new epoxy surface to remove the glossy surface (which gives it "teeth" for the next layer of fairing).

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007 Grind these linear cracks out with a 4" diamond blade on a hand grinder and re-fill with West Systems G-Flex mixed with "milled glass". Very dense and more structural than other epoxy system fillers. G-Flex adds the ability to deal with keel movement and vibrations that other, more rigid epoxy systems don't. I had on-hand some of those large-size West System syringes to shoot it into the deep void areas. You can use a Fein-type multi-tool to rough up and "sand" inside those. Shop-vac out the loose stuff, brush and splash in some acetone and you're ready for epoxy.

007 Grind these linear cracks out with a 4" diamond blade on a hand grinder and re-fill with West Systems G-Flex mixed with "milled glass". Very dense and more structural than other epoxy system fillers. G-Flex adds the ability to deal with keel movement and vibrations that other, more rigid epoxy systems don't. I had on-hand some of those large-size West System syringes to shoot it into the deep void areas. You can use a Fein-type multi-tool to rough up and "sand" inside those. Shop-vac out the loose stuff, brush and splash in some acetone and you're ready for epoxy.

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097 1/2" blue foam was excellent for making templates. Easy to slice and shave with a razor utility knife to exactly fit whatever piece I was making. Match the foam thickness to your filler material of choice. In the upper part of the photo, there's a piece of the heavy fiberglass roving that Catalina specifies in their bilge repair technical bulletin.

097 1/2" blue foam was excellent for making templates. Easy to slice and shave with a razor utility knife to exactly fit whatever piece I was making. Match the foam thickness to your filler material of choice. In the upper part of the photo, there's a piece of the heavy fiberglass roving that Catalina specifies in their bilge repair technical bulletin.

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IMG 1673 Leftover Interlux e2000 epoxy sealer from the outer hull job makes a great primer for Bilgekote or it can be left alone if kept out of UV (like down in the bilge). And it adds waterproofing to your new fiberglass work. Definitely roll or brush some clearcoats of West System over the fiberglass to obtain smoothness before the e2000. You don't want crevices that will retain dirt and look bad over time. I added G-10 blocks on those four keelboats because I needed more flat surface for the stainless washers to clear the bilge sides.

IMG 1673 Leftover Interlux e2000 epoxy sealer from the outer hull job makes a great primer for Bilgekote or it can be left alone if kept out of UV (like down in the bilge). And it adds waterproofing to your new fiberglass work. Definitely roll or brush some clearcoats of West System over the fiberglass to obtain smoothness before the e2000. You don't want crevices that will retain dirt and look bad over time. I added G-10 blocks on those four keelboats because I needed more flat surface for the stainless washers to clear the bilge sides.

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IMG 1672 Looking forward and towards the mast compression post support area. I also used G-10 (3/4" for faster build-up) under the post because I was familiar with the material and shaping it to fit (use a 4" grinder w/ diamond wheel), it is virtually waterproof and an extremely dense epoxy composite, compatible with West Systems methods.

IMG 1672 Looking forward and towards the mast compression post support area. I also used G-10 (3/4" for faster build-up) under the post because I was familiar with the material and shaping it to fit (use a 4" grinder w/ diamond wheel), it is virtually waterproof and an extremely dense epoxy composite, compatible with West Systems methods.

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022 Note the last keelbolt is under the engine. Also see that I added some long bolts in the engine block mounting flanges to keep it higher than the 6 x 6's. All the clearance height you can gain is helpful for accessing the bilge work area. Cut a notch so the oil dipstick tube clears too. You gotta clean this area up and chisel out the plywood around this bolt too. A Fein-type Multi-tool is good in here also.

022 Note the last keelbolt is under the engine. Also see that I added some long bolts in the engine block mounting flanges to keep it higher than the 6 x 6's. All the clearance height you can gain is helpful for accessing the bilge work area. Cut a notch so the oil dipstick tube clears too. You gotta clean this area up and chisel out the plywood around this bolt too. A Fein-type Multi-tool is good in here also.

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019 Great time to replace all the hoses, engine mounts, exhaust piping, and many other engine upgrades.

019 Great time to replace all the hoses, engine mounts, exhaust piping, and many other engine upgrades.

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093 One of the fiberglass mat layers specified by Catalina. I believe they want 3 alternating layers of mat and roving material, but I recommend a fourth mat layer on top to leave a smoother finish. I also added some 6" wide 23oz 45deg biaxial cloth up the sides of the bilge. Removing two 3/4" plywood layers on our 1984 boat meant that I had to rebuild 1.5" back up. The fiberglass cloth and roving doesn't get all that. Plus, adding two 1/2" layers of G-10 like I did on top of the cloth makes a VERY substantial bearing surface for tightening down the keelbolts onto.

093 One of the fiberglass mat layers specified by Catalina. I believe they want 3 alternating layers of mat and roving material, but I recommend a fourth mat layer on top to leave a smoother finish. I also added some 6" wide 23oz 45deg biaxial cloth up the sides of the bilge. Removing two 3/4" plywood layers on our 1984 boat meant that I had to rebuild 1.5" back up. The fiberglass cloth and roving doesn't get all that. Plus, adding two 1/2" layers of G-10 like I did on top of the cloth makes a VERY substantial bearing surface for tightening down the keelbolts onto.

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032 Up on 6 x 6's. Note P.O. had upgraded to the 3" heat exchanger, but mounting with a single hose clamp was dodgy. I fabricated a new bracket with strut and bolted it to those extra two holes not used by engine mounts.

032 Up on 6 x 6's. Note P.O. had upgraded to the 3" heat exchanger, but mounting with a single hose clamp was dodgy. I fabricated a new bracket with strut and bolted it to those extra two holes not used by engine mounts.

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IMG 1587 You should add West System Low Density Filler to the epoxy when installing the G10 boards. Press the board into place, the stuff googes up around the sides and fills in the gaps. Trowel or fillet it up neat and let it set. I covered the top layer G-10 pieces with blue tape so I could keep the top finish without blobs on the surface and ready for paint

IMG 1587 You should add West System Low Density Filler to the epoxy when installing the G10 boards. Press the board into place, the stuff googes up around the sides and fills in the gaps. Trowel or fillet it up neat and let it set. I covered the top layer G-10 pieces with blue tape so I could keep the top finish without blobs on the surface and ready for paint

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IMG 1581 After removing the wet plywood, then layering fiberglass mat and roving per Catalina's repair specifications, I then added two 1/2" layers of G-10 board. Used 1/2 blue foam for making templates and then cut the G-10 to match the shape and keelbolt hole positions. I staggered the two layers so the joints between pieces were never in the same location.

IMG 1581 After removing the wet plywood, then layering fiberglass mat and roving per Catalina's repair specifications, I then added two 1/2" layers of G-10 board. Used 1/2 blue foam for making templates and then cut the G-10 to match the shape and keelbolt hole positions. I staggered the two layers so the joints between pieces were never in the same location.

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014 Home-made gantry with come-along. Adult-size, erector set strut material is available at HD/Lowes. Bolt it up, protect the fiberglass deck and you're ready. The mast needs to taken off to do the compression post support repairs, so using the boom to lift the 325lb motor wasn't an option. After disconnecting wiring, shaft flange, exhaust and engine mounts, it was up on blocks, inside the boat, in 30 minutes. A one person job.

014 Home-made gantry with come-along. Adult-size, erector set strut material is available at HD/Lowes. Bolt it up, protect the fiberglass deck and you're ready. The mast needs to taken off to do the compression post support repairs, so using the boom to lift the 325lb motor wasn't an option. After disconnecting wiring, shaft flange, exhaust and engine mounts, it was up on blocks, inside the boat, in 30 minutes. A one person job.

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IMG 1230 This rot damage came from water down the mast over time. My 1984 Catalina 30 masthead fitting is open to the sky at the top! Since I had the mast pulled to do this compression post repair, it now has an aluminum plate to cover the opening. Note the hole that the mast wiring came through, in the upper left part of the wood.

IMG 1230 This rot damage came from water down the mast over time. My 1984 Catalina 30 masthead fitting is open to the sky at the top! Since I had the mast pulled to do this compression post repair, it now has an aluminum plate to cover the opening. Note the hole that the mast wiring came through, in the upper left part of the wood.

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IMG 1369 Note bottom two inches of PVC wiring conduit showing some previous water "level" inside the post box. Catalina factory drills a hole down through the post support and into the bilge so the mast wires can continue back to the nav station switches. Rain comes down the wires, and over time, rots the block.

IMG 1369 Note bottom two inches of PVC wiring conduit showing some previous water "level" inside the post box. Catalina factory drills a hole down through the post support and into the bilge so the mast wires can continue back to the nav station switches. Rain comes down the wires, and over time, rots the block.

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IMG 1372 Aft compression post board removed. It is screwed and glued. Work a sturdy, new, sharp putty knife carefully up the joint. After opening the seam (quite a lot), I speeded things apart using a Rockwell SonicCrafter. Recommend it or a similar Fein "Multi-Tool" highly

IMG 1372 Aft compression post board removed. It is screwed and glued. Work a sturdy, new, sharp putty knife carefully up the joint. After opening the seam (quite a lot), I speeded things apart using a Rockwell SonicCrafter. Recommend it or a similar Fein "Multi-Tool" highly

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IMG 1374 Looking aft, bolts looking good. Plywood was wet though. Two 3/4" sheets for a total plywood depth of 1.5". The last keel bolt is under the engine.

IMG 1374 Looking aft, bolts looking good. Plywood was wet though. Two 3/4" sheets for a total plywood depth of 1.5". The last keel bolt is under the engine.

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IMG 1357 Used hand chisels, flat wrecking bar, 3lb hand sledge, Rockwell SonicCrafter, 4" grinder w/ diamond cutting wheel, and the month of February.

IMG 1357 Used hand chisels, flat wrecking bar, 3lb hand sledge, Rockwell SonicCrafter, 4" grinder w/ diamond cutting wheel, and the month of February.

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IMG 1237 This was soft, wet, stacks of 3/4" plywood

IMG 1237 This was soft, wet, stacks of 3/4" plywood

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IMG 1233

IMG 1233

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Clearing out the rotted compression post support

Clearing out the rotted compression post support

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Belly of the Beast

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