093 One of the fiberglass mat layers specified by Catalina. I believe they want 3 alternating layers of mat and roving material, but I recommend a fourth mat layer on top to leave a smoother finish. I also added some 6" wide 23oz 45deg biaxial cloth up the sides of the bilge. Removing two 3/4" plywood layers on our 1984 boat meant that I had to rebuild 1.5" back up. The fiberglass cloth and roving doesn't get all that. Plus, adding two 1/2" layers of G-10 like I did on top of the cloth makes a VERY substantial bearing surface for tightening down the keelbolts onto.
IMG 1672 Looking forward and towards the mast compression post support area. I also used G-10 (3/4" for faster build-up) under the post because I was familiar with the material and shaping it to fit (use a 4" grinder w/ diamond wheel), it is virtually waterproof and an extremely dense epoxy composite, compatible with West Systems methods.
022 Note the last keelbolt is under the engine. Also see that I added some long bolts in the engine block mounting flanges to keep it higher than the 6 x 6's. All the clearance height you can gain is helpful for accessing the bilge work area. Cut a notch so the oil dipstick tube clears too. You gotta clean this area up and chisel out the plywood around this bolt too. A Fein-type Multi-tool is good in here also.
019 Great time to replace all the hoses, engine mounts, exhaust piping, and many other engine upgrades.
093 One of the fiberglass mat layers specified by Catalina. I believe they want 3 alternating layers of mat and roving material, but I recommend a fourth mat layer on top to leave a smoother finish. I also added some 6" wide 23oz 45deg biaxial cloth up the sides of the bilge. Removing two 3/4" plywood layers on our 1984 boat meant that I had to rebuild 1.5" back up. The fiberglass cloth and roving doesn't get all that. Plus, adding two 1/2" layers of G-10 like I did on top of the cloth makes a VERY substantial bearing surface for tightening down the keelbolts onto.
032 Up on 6 x 6's. Note P.O. had upgraded to the 3" heat exchanger, but mounting with a single hose clamp was dodgy. I fabricated a new bracket with strut and bolted it to those extra two holes not used by engine mounts.
IMG 1587 You should add West System Low Density Filler to the epoxy when installing the G10 boards. Press the board into place, the stuff googes up around the sides and fills in the gaps. Trowel or fillet it up neat and let it set. I covered the top layer G-10 pieces with blue tape so I could keep the top finish without blobs on the surface and ready for paint
IMG 1581 After removing the wet plywood, then layering fiberglass mat and roving per Catalina's repair specifications, I then added two 1/2" layers of G-10 board. Used 1/2 blue foam for making templates and then cut the G-10 to match the shape and keelbolt hole positions. I staggered the two layers so the joints between pieces were never in the same location.
R

093 One of the fiberglass mat layers specified by Catalina. I believe they want 3 alternating layers of mat and roving material, but I recommend a fourth mat layer on top to leave a smoother finish. I also added some 6" wide 23oz 45deg biaxial cloth up the sides of the bilge. Removing two 3/4" plywood layers on our 1984 boat meant that I had to rebuild 1.5" back up. The fiberglass cloth and roving doesn't get all that. Plus, adding two 1/2" layers of G-10 like I did on top of the cloth makes a VERY substantial bearing surface for tightening down the keelbolts onto.

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