019 Great time to replace all the hoses, engine mounts, exhaust piping, and many other engine upgrades.
IMG 1673 Leftover Interlux e2000 epoxy sealer from the outer hull job makes a great primer for Bilgekote or it can be left alone if kept out of UV (like down in the bilge). And it adds waterproofing to your new fiberglass work. Definitely roll or brush some clearcoats of West System over the fiberglass to obtain smoothness before the e2000. You don't want crevices that will retain dirt and look bad over time. I added G-10 blocks on those four keelboats because I needed more flat surface for the stainless washers to clear the bilge sides.
IMG 1672 Looking forward and towards the mast compression post support area. I also used G-10 (3/4" for faster build-up) under the post because I was familiar with the material and shaping it to fit (use a 4" grinder w/ diamond wheel), it is virtually waterproof and an extremely dense epoxy composite, compatible with West Systems methods.
022 Note the last keelbolt is under the engine. Also see that I added some long bolts in the engine block mounting flanges to keep it higher than the 6 x 6's. All the clearance height you can gain is helpful for accessing the bilge work area. Cut a notch so the oil dipstick tube clears too. You gotta clean this area up and chisel out the plywood around this bolt too. A Fein-type Multi-tool is good in here also.
019 Great time to replace all the hoses, engine mounts, exhaust piping, and many other engine upgrades.
093 One of the fiberglass mat layers specified by Catalina. I believe they want 3 alternating layers of mat and roving material, but I recommend a fourth mat layer on top to leave a smoother finish. I also added some 6" wide 23oz 45deg biaxial cloth up the sides of the bilge. Removing two 3/4" plywood layers on our 1984 boat meant that I had to rebuild 1.5" back up. The fiberglass cloth and roving doesn't get all that. Plus, adding two 1/2" layers of G-10 like I did on top of the cloth makes a VERY substantial bearing surface for tightening down the keelbolts onto.
032 Up on 6 x 6's. Note P.O. had upgraded to the 3" heat exchanger, but mounting with a single hose clamp was dodgy. I fabricated a new bracket with strut and bolted it to those extra two holes not used by engine mounts.
IMG 1587 You should add West System Low Density Filler to the epoxy when installing the G10 boards. Press the board into place, the stuff googes up around the sides and fills in the gaps. Trowel or fillet it up neat and let it set. I covered the top layer G-10 pieces with blue tape so I could keep the top finish without blobs on the surface and ready for paint
R

019 Great time to replace all the hoses, engine mounts, exhaust piping, and many other engine upgrades.

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