The Dreaded "Stuck Keel" on a V222

[Todd Atchison]

So everything was going so well. I had done my research, talked to you guys a lot and at last the weekend came. I constructed a nice "keel cradle" out of 4x4's and solid oak 2x6's:

Then I added casters to the it and made it to fit perfectly over a motorcycle jack:

The pivot bolt came out very easily, a couple taps with hammer after putting some pressure on it from underneath with the small jack to the right of the motorcycle jack above.

The moment came and we lowered the jack after removing the pivot bolt, and nothing. The keel moves easily in and out of the trunk. It's the area around the pivot bolt that has "swollen" causing the keel to be "wedged." In the picture above the keel's pivot bolt is actually removed.

Here is my questions: I've drilled a small hole, about a 1/4 inch in the top of the keel trunk in the cabin. From there I can use a steel rod and "tap" the top of the keel. The hole is a above the waterline and can easily be glassed over later. Does anyone have another way? I've also "dug out" as much of the rusted iron poweder and fiberglass as possible.

If I'm on the right track, this is the point where support of my idea from others is crucial! Has anyone done this? How did you deal with it? My fear is damaging the keel trunk, though I suppose that can get some glass too. Any suggestions or ideas are apprciated.

 

[Sailavie1]

Is there any area around the keel one can use a wooden wedge from below to widen the keel trunk?

 

[Todd Atchison]

I actually wedged a very thin puddy knilfe in between the trunk and the area right below the pivot bolt on the bottom. It was so snug I could barely get the very thin, small puddy knife out. I think the "tapping from the top" may be the way to go. Not certain yet, I have all day at work today to think about it!

 

[timebandit]

I cannot see any problems with knocking the thing out from the top. Wack it smartly and maybe use some lube to help it slide once it starts to move.
Be ready when it comes loose.
Good luck

 

[Timethief]

How bout lower the stern end of the keel down, with the cradle as low as possible. Presumably, this would cause the swing part of the keel to lower. Assuming it clears the trunk (yeah, I know - assumptions), slide a 1x4 or similar into the gap between the keel and the trunk, as far forward as possible. Secure it to anything forward, then raise either the jack the cradle, crank the keel cable, or both and see if you can force the forward part down. Also, WD-40 or similar into the trunk at the pivot point. Worth a try if you have the clearances.

 

[Todd Atchison]

That might be a good solution. I haven't completely given up on "wacking from the top." I think it might be a combination of things. I'm definately dumping some WD40 in there.

 

[jjsbiggs]

I think someone else on here had to do the "wacking" to get their keel out. But I think doing all the above may be needed to get it to move. You may need to drill a bigger hole up top so you can get something a little bigger in to hit.

 

[JamieV]

I’m sorry I have no suggestions. I have the same boat only I acquired it with the keel removed. Once it’s out, we can surly exchange ideas as to it’s restoration and getting it back in. Keep at it and I’m sure it will work out.

 

[Todd Atchison]

Sounds like I'm on the right track. I appriciate everyones suggestions. I'll keep everyone in the loop.

 

[BILLNPR]

Been there done that. If possible lower the rear, stern section of the keel to a floor jack lined up with the center line of the boat. Place the 2x4 as far forward as possible and then raise the floor jack. You can use a hack saw blade gripped with a vice grips, turn the teeth to the keel and saw the rust off. A high pressure washer jet works well too, remember to point it to the keel too.

 

[Todd Atchison]

Success! I'm happy to report after a combination of ALL YOUR suggestions, the keel gave up this weekend.

NOTE THE CLEARANCE

 

[Timethief]

Congratulations!

 

[timebandit]

Congratulations! Now the fun begins