Can any of you wise folks tell me exactly where this is. Is it easily accessible. I read that it is in the engine room behind a bulkhead but can't seem to find. Also what does it look like. Any help greatly appreciated.
Solenoid aft head on 42 hunter passage centre cockpit
- Thread starter Hunter passage 42
- Start date
I'm guessing you're referring to the solenoid valve in the flush water intake line for a electric macerating toilet. If the toilet is a sea water toilet, the solenoid is actually an electric "air valve" in a vented loop, so it'll be (at least it SHOULD be) in the toilet intake line high enough to be at least 6-8" above waterline at any angle of heel...which on most sailboats puts at least 2 feet above the bowl . If it's a toilet designed to use onboard pressurized fresh water, there won't be a vented loop, it'll just be a valve in the the intake line between the back of the toilet bowl and the cold water line to the head sink...which might put it under the vanity or in a locker near the sink. I'd be very surprised if it's in the engine room, but anything is possible.
However, depending on the make/model of your toilet and whether a solenoid valve is needed, there may not be one. What's the make/model of your toilet and why are you trying to find it?
Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
However, depending on the make/model of your toilet and whether a solenoid valve is needed, there may not be one. What's the make/model of your toilet and why are you trying to find it?
Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
We had to replace our old electric head because the bowl got cracked, and we never had a problem. But the new electric head allows the intake water to overfill the bowl. Thinking maybe the solenoid is worn out but can't seem to locate it.
What are the makes/models of both your old and your new toilet? Sea water versions or fresh water? Do you have owners manuals for either or both?
Btw...if a cracked bowl was the only thing wrong with the old one, you could have replaced just the bowl.
Btw...if a cracked bowl was the only thing wrong with the old one, you could have replaced just the bowl.
Sounds like it's a 37010 The owners manual is here: Jabsco 37010 owners manual
You prob'ly need to have a conversation with Jabsco tech support. Paul Campagna is their toilet guru...his direct line is 978-282-5246.
You prob'ly need to have a conversation with Jabsco tech support. Paul Campagna is their toilet guru...his direct line is 978-282-5246.
It is in the engine compartment. On the head wall. You will have to lean over the engine and you will see it about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up the wall. It is a loop in the head water supply line. I will try and get a picture of mine today when I get to the boat.
Peggie- Just got the Raritan SeaEra replacement base assembly and plan on installing once boat gets splashed. TY for your help.
Mike Carlson
1991 Hunter 42 Passage
Peggie- Just got the Raritan SeaEra replacement base assembly and plan on installing once boat gets splashed. TY for your help.
Mike Carlson
1991 Hunter 42 Passage
That sounds like the loop is installed too low in the boat. Vented loops need to be at least 6-8" above waterline AT MAX HEEL, not just when the boat is at rest. On most sailboats, that puts it 2-3 FEET above the bowl...it's typically mounted on the bulkhead directly above the toilet. See photo. (It shows both discharge and intake loops...you may or may not need both).
If the toilet is a Jabsco 37010, there's a much better place to put the loop that doesn't require a solenoid valve: That toilet ( btw, Mike, same is true of the sea water version of the SeaEra) has a connecting line that runs from the base assembly to the back of the bowl. Replace it with lines long enough to put a vented loop at the the right height above the toilet. No solenoid valve is needed because they're only needed in a line through which water is being PULLED.. Flush water is pulled TO the pump, the pump PUSHES water to the back of the bowl.
Peggy,
It appears, as it is hard to tape measure the waterline at heel, that the loop IS at least 2-3 feet above water line. Mine has a solenoid valve that supposedly closes when the pushbutton is pressed and the pump on the toilet "sucks" water. I was giving him a general description of where that loop is in the engine room. Do you think I should remove the solenoid valve? How will the pump create a vacuum to pull water up thru the loop?
It appears, as it is hard to tape measure the waterline at heel, that the loop IS at least 2-3 feet above water line. Mine has a solenoid valve that supposedly closes when the pushbutton is pressed and the pump on the toilet "sucks" water. I was giving him a general description of where that loop is in the engine room. Do you think I should remove the solenoid valve? How will the pump create a vacuum to pull water up thru the loop?
A solenoid is only needed to prevent air from being pulled through a vented loop that's installed between the thru-hull and the pump. When there's no vented loop between the thru-hull and the bowl, the toilet no trouble pulling in water. No solenoid is needed when the loop is installed between the pump and the bowl because the pump is PUSHING water to the bowl...it's not pulling air in.
Not until/unless it fails, which all solenoid valves do sooner or later (iow, if it ain't broke yet, don't fix it till it does break) When that happens, replace the toilet intake line between the thru-hull and the toilet with a nice shiny one (there's prob'ly a lot of sea water mineral buildup in it anyway) and relocate the vented loop to the head above the toilet. A 3/4" vented loop and a few feet of 3/4" #148 flex pvc hose will cost you a fraction of the price of another solenoid.
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That's the advice I'd give you if you weren't replacing the toilet. But because you are, now's the perfect time to get rid of it and relocate the vented loop to the head above the toilet. There's a drawing on page 7 in the SeaEra owners manual Raritan SeaEra owners manual that shows exactly what I'm describing. (Same thing works on Jabsco 37010 too and also on all manual toilets).
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Nooooo..that would be a plumbing nightmare that rivals the worst boat builders' installations (and most of theirs are awful)! Take a look at the drawing on p.7 in the SeaEra owners manual and then do it right!
I would have to pull out and replace about 15' of hose then to completely re-run the hose which would require tearing up the floor and trying to wiggle around the Gen and Engine to pull from that area.
A complete re-run of the suction line from Mid-ships to aft head. Trust me wasn't planning on that at all but if you think that is the best it will entail ALOT of new hose and possible flooring.
A complete re-run of the suction line from Mid-ships to aft head. Trust me wasn't planning on that at all but if you think that is the best it will entail ALOT of new hose and possible flooring.
Maybe not...if you can pull new hose through as you pull old hose out.You really can't do it the way you described...so let's look at other possible solutions:
The boat's still out of the water, which would make it easy to install a new thru-hull (or move the existing and glass over the hole) in an accessible location that's a lot closer to the toilet. You could just cut the existing intake hose and leave it there.
Or even better ...exchange the sea water SeaEra "conversion" for the pressurized flush water version (a little cheaper than the sea water version 'cuz it doesn't have an intake pump) Raritan SeaEra Conversion Promo Sheet and use that thru-hull for a wash down pump...even if you already have one, any boat that size can likely use two.
If you do that you can also apply some of the saving to replace the flush button with a 3-way switch that will let you add water to the bowl before use (very handy before solids), flush "dry, or bring in water and flush simultaneously...which would really increase the number of flushes your tank can hold. That switch can't be used on sea water toilets, only on fresh water versions.
There's almost always "more than one way to skin a cat" (old Southern expression)...give all those ways some thought.
The boat's still out of the water, which would make it easy to install a new thru-hull (or move the existing and glass over the hole) in an accessible location that's a lot closer to the toilet. You could just cut the existing intake hose and leave it there.
Or even better ...exchange the sea water SeaEra "conversion" for the pressurized flush water version (a little cheaper than the sea water version 'cuz it doesn't have an intake pump) Raritan SeaEra Conversion Promo Sheet and use that thru-hull for a wash down pump...even if you already have one, any boat that size can likely use two.
If you do that you can also apply some of the saving to replace the flush button with a 3-way switch that will let you add water to the bowl before use (very handy before solids), flush "dry, or bring in water and flush simultaneously...which would really increase the number of flushes your tank can hold. That switch can't be used on sea water toilets, only on fresh water versions.
There's almost always "more than one way to skin a cat" (old Southern expression)...give all those ways some thought.
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Would like to thankyou for helping my wife with this issue, as have found it behind the Invertor charger, on the wall going to check power supply as suspect that may be the problem