Post compression help

Sep 20, 2011
135
hunter 30 md
I am trying to upload pictures thru advanced settings, it downloads pics but show up as blank! Go to 60 min compression post, I outlined what we done, and literally under an hr!!!
I took some pics that I'm trying to post and when I go back down and 5200 is cured I'm going to " pretty " it up and paint the bilge
 
Sep 20, 2011
135
hunter 30 md
Pictures finally loaded some on 60 minute post, if any one is interested in my aluminum base, we are thinking of selling a few!
 
Sep 20, 2011
135
hunter 30 md
Going to grind off starboard size of I beam later , and trying now to figure out what kind of flooring, don't want wood any more thinking something non skid any ideas and pics?
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,107
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
... it will still transmit the load to the bottom of the bilge, exactly where you should want it to not go. Hm.
Hi John:

Re your above observation, there must be something very different about the construction/design of my 36 vs the 30. I've attached photo's of the sub floor compression post in my 36. Unless I have some thrawtship's cross bar built into the ~3/4" thickness of the cabin floor frp, (which wouldn't be very substantial because then why is the sub post needed?), then it seems that all of the compression stresses do transmit directly to the keel stub? But maybe on my boat that bottom area is also reinforced with extra layup to transmit the stress to the hull as well as the keel?
 

Attachments

Sep 20, 2011
135
hunter 30 md
Well I think it's going to work and I'm going to close it up and get some sailing in, note my disclaimer at top of my post, everyone won't like and or agree with what I done or way it was done. ,,,,,,,,,___/),, ,,,,,
 
Sep 20, 2011
135
hunter 30 md
Jack on left is on 4x4 and piece of 2x4, holding up a piece of 2x4 that is 5 ft 6 inches long, loosened shrouds and went to work, be sure to us a flat piece of wood on top of 2x4 to distribute force being jacked up and not poke a hole in cabin top!
 
Mar 4, 2013
12
Hunter 30' Sloop Key West Fl
thanks for the info. I am going to do this in the next 6 mths ill let you know how mine turns out.
 
Aug 3, 2009
35
Catalina 30 Everett, WA
We have been thinking of using Isiteek for flooring. It comes in a roll I contacted them and received a couple of samples. It looks really pretty straightforward to use. http://www.isiteek.com/.
 
Aug 3, 2009
35
Catalina 30 Everett, WA
How did you get the block out? From what I can see it looks like you supported where the mast comes thru the hull, but what did you do for a support in the bilge while you were removing the wood block before you put in the aluminum block? How did you remove it and what did you use to do it with? Did you have the aluminum block annodized? We have a Catalina 30 and I don't know how close in size the Hunter block is to the Catalina's.
 
Sep 20, 2011
135
hunter 30 md
My hunter 30 had the rusted I beam and when we opened it up I don't know if there was/wasn't a support for it or not, as one person described my prior picture" he said it looks like my cheese( the post) had slid off its cracker( the beam) causing it to bend on the starboard side. We took measurements , cleaned out all the debris , made a I beam off solid aluminum ( won't crush or rust) and tapped it into place . Funny thing as we tapped into place, the I beam straightened out. Put some epoxy down there and good to go. If you want pics email me @hummingbirdbassist@gmail.com
We are seriously thinking about making some for sail( sale). From measuring to making to installing, less than 2hrs. Less than 1hr to install
 
Oct 27, 2011
154
Hunter 1980 Hunter 30 San Diego, Mission Bay
Same issue on my 1980 H30. I-beam rusting and distorting. I think a big part of the problem is that the compression post is not in line with the mast and the I-beam; it is displaced to port about 2". This puts the web of the I'beam in bending, which it isn't designed to do. Similar situation at the top - the compression post is not under the mast, but displaced 2" to port so deck is not properly supported. I am considering adding a second 4x4 compression post, sistered up against the first one. This will be on the centerline of the boat and in-line with the mast and a replacement I-beam. This will of course make the companionway 4" narrower, but I think it is worth it to get the loads in line. Curious what others think.

I've already removed the I-beam and the plywood/flooring under the compression post. Removing the I-beam was not too hard - I used an electric sledgehammer with a chisel bit (rented from Home Depot for about $60) to remove the fiberglass holding the I-beam in place, then cut through the web with a saws-all and metal cutting blade. With a little help from a pry bar and hammer, the two pieces of I-beam came out pretty easily. I then cut the floor with the saws-all, and it came out easily.

Big question for me is should I add the second compression post?? Certainly a lot more work to do this.