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Moving the tiller and Lines Out of the Cockpit of my Javelin?

Discussion in 'Day Sailers' started by cobright, Sep 27, 2017. Add this thread to a FAQ

  1. cobright


    Joined Sep 27, 2017
    1 posts, 0 likes
    O'Day Javelin
    US Michigan Garage
    I've been given an O'Day Javelin and I would like to make it a little more family friendly. Right off, I will acknowledge that I'm sort of asking this boat to be something it's not. I get that, and in a perfect world I would just go buy a perfect boat. But to tide me over until the rapture (which I expect to leave me with plenty of time for sailing in my favorite lakes) I would like to make a few rigging changes. Before I do, I'm hoping someone here has tried to do the same (or similar) and might share some first hand experience.
    My biggest gripe is that with two kids, my wife, and myself in the boat we have plenty of room until I start working the boat. Then it becomes a nightmare. The jib blocks and lines end up right where someone is sitting. The main sheet runs up in the middle of the cockpit, almost always right where someone is sitting. Then, of course, there is 5 feet of tiller and extension clearing the deck aft the CB trunk. The boat was made to be crewed by two people and it seems like it would be great like that. I'm willing to give up a substantial amount of performance if necessary in order to open up the cockpit space a bit.
    Here's what I would like to do:
    1. Move the mainsheet block forward. Ideally, all the way to the deck.
    2. Rig mainsheet to end of boom instead of mid-boom.
    3. Move jib cleats to outside of the cockpit and forward (close to deck).
    4. Fit rudder with a Norwegian tiller.
    It seems like this setup would put all the lines and tiller control at the front of the cockpit and leave the rest of the cockpit seating clear. The only downside I can see is it would pin the helmsman to one side of the boat.
    Is there more to it than this? What am I losing by shifting my rigging this way other than some marginal performance?

  2. Solarfy


    Joined Jul 26, 2016
    69 posts, 5 likes
    American Sail 18
    US Granada Hills, California MDR
    Go for # 2 if you end up at stern with tiller. Remove mainsheet block from centerline.
    Run a second block, one each side, aft about 3' from stern, Run jibsheets through regular block and aft to new stern block. You can use regular braided line if you need more line. Think clearly about how far outboard you should run lines. If it sags too much an eye fitting may help keep it in boat.
    Cut the dang tiller shorter. There is no law that say's it has to be 6' long.
    Above will make it easier to steer and handle lines from stern and clear cockpit from clutter.
    Manage boat from stern.
    Keep lines off floor
    A Suzuki 2.5 ($ 700.00 new) will weight less and be easier to handle (29# empty) than an electric with a battery. Alwasy store it empty of gas by running it till it conks out and reading the owner's manual. Gas should not be stored in HOT places like garage and sheds. It deteriorates rapidly. ( personally I prefer the Merc/Nissan/Tohatsu/Evinrude 2.5 and 3.5 but they are 8# heavier
    It's your boat. Do what you think will make you happy.
    PS Don't listen to purists. The know nothing. Like dumb John Snow from..

    Try for less expensive blocks, etc.

    Do not sail if wind goes over 14 MPH. Women and kids may not like a leaning boat. Keep your cool all the time.

    Last edited: Sep 27, 2017
    jwing and cobright like this.
  3. Sunbird22358


    Joined Jun 2, 2004
    1,609 posts, 26 likes
    Oday Day Sailer
    US Wareham, MA
    What the heck is a "Norwegian Tiller"?
    Also, on a small centerboard boat like a JAVELIN, you want crew weight on the windward side of the boat usually to maintain stability (avoiding capsizing!). Moving jibsheet fairleads and cleats to the top of the coamings or onto the sidedecks might work OK, but I'd want to still be able to adjust them from the windward side, sending someone to the leeward side before every tack (or any other time that you need to adjust the trim of the jib) means moving their weight off the windward side and that could affect keeping the boat from tipping too much. I would think that moving the mainsheet lead forward would place it more in the way, as it would then need to be lead all the way back to the helm. Also, on a small CB boat you want to have the mainsheet in your hand always (use the supplied camcleat to hold the tension) so that you can instantly release it to spill the wind in a sudden puff. That is the best way to prevent capsizing. OK to shorten the tiller, (my stock tiller is only about 3' long) but I wouldn't make it too short as a shorter tiller will result in less leverage and possibly more effort to hold course (more fatigue for the helmsperson). Moving the mainsheet from mid-boom to the end is not new, the original rig of the Javelin had the mainsheet rigged from end-boom, then led forward along the boom to the aft end of the CB trunk, but this will require more line and really, I don't find the mid-boom mainsheet on my DS II to be that in the way, in fact I like having the stern clear of all that line that the end-boom sheeting would use.

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