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Made this for my 146

Discussion in 'Day Sailers' started by KeukaSailer, May 11, 2018. Add this thread to a FAQ

  1. KeukaSailer


    Joined Mar 21, 2018
    25 posts, 7 likes
    hunter 146
    us Keuka Lake NY/ Jersey Shore
    Love the look of wood...even on a composite sailboat (pro custom wood worker here :biggrin:) . I just wanted her to have a little bling, so instead of the hdpe motor cleat....I made this. American black cherry, instead of the traditional Teak (which I also love). Cherry has been used in boat building before, couple of examples I've seen in the Fingerlakes boating museum. Anyway stock SS bracket, SS carriage bolts nuts washers, and 2-1/2" air dried cherry from my property I had cut down 5 years ago. Finished with 5 coats of Spar Varnish. What do you guys think! Ok?

    Attached Files:

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  2. BobbyFunn


    Joined Apr 16, 2017
    257 posts, 122 likes
    Hunter 170
    US Tampa
    Classy looking. Love the motor clamp receptors.

    KeukaSailer likes this.
  3. shemandr


    Joined Jan 1, 2006
    3,422 posts, 527 likes
    Marblehead Skiff 14'
    US Greenport, NY
    Here is some more Cherry in use in boatbuilding. I'm sorry i don't know what variety. This is the work of Wooden Boat Works here on the North Fork of LI. This is eye candy for wood lovers.

    Attached Files:

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  4. Will Gilmore

    Will Gilmore

    Joined Oct 19, 2017
    2,571 posts, 1,057 likes
    O'Day 19
    US Littleton, NH
    That is a beautiful piece of wood and I love that you got to use a piece from your own tree. Very nice work.

    I don't want to sound critical, because I am not at all, I love what you have done. I am only suggesting that you have chosen a flat sawn piece that may be susceptible to cupping because of that. It may have no problems at all, especially with a motor mounted nearly full time to the piece. However, you might consider gluing a spline across the end grain to help support the piece from cupping. I would guess the approximate dimensions at 1-1/2" thick by 8" wide. That is a large piece of cherry. The radial lines of your end grain look fairly tight and that is where cupping occurs as the drying wood straightens that radius out. It would add to the bling, if you were to cut a dado across that end grain of about 1/2" width by 1-1/2" depth and glue a well fitted piece of Ash into the groove. The lighter ash would be a nice little detail. Something darker could also have a similar effect. Only time will tell if the wood is stable on its own, but if it does cup, it will likely check also.

    -Will (Dragonfly)

  5. KeukaSailer


    Joined Mar 21, 2018
    25 posts, 7 likes
    hunter 146
    us Keuka Lake NY/ Jersey Shore
    Hey Will! No offense taken. I do this kind of stuff for a living, and If I got offended everytime someone offered critical ideas....I'd probably do something else. I always keep an open mind. Pretty close on your guess for dimensions. It's actually 7" wide on the flat, and 2-1/2" thick. I Air dried this stuff for the last 5 years outside with the last 6months inside the shop. Normally I'd agree with you, about using flat sawn lumber in that way, however this is a really narrow thick piece so I don't expect any cupping. I haven't experienced any checking in the stock it came from so far only time will tell if it will. Air drying is the key here, and an advantage vs kiln drying. Also nice idea about the spline of differing wood, that would look good. :biggrin:

    Will Gilmore likes this.
  6. Crazy Dave Condon

    Crazy Dave Condon

    Joined Jun 8, 2004
    6,423 posts, 501 likes
    -na -NA
    US Anywhere USA
    I am cupping COFFEE!! 7441DB74-34FF-46F3-8A40-1BA2A65F921E.gif

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