Going to tune rigging and wonder if I just get the mast foot level would that be a good starting point until I get on the water. Thanks
Level boat on trailer
- Thread starter Jimmy
- Start date
Yes. We used to do it a few times a year and found it a great help to figure out some way to mark or identify the turnbuckles so we didn't have to reinvent the wheel for each setup. Of course, there's always fine tuning, but that's necessary during a season anyway. It's just nice to be able to get through the bulk of the adjusting without always wondering if you'd gone too far. I always disliked doing things twice or thrice. 
Do you center the mast sideways by measuring the distances to either side? Or do you rely on the leveling of the boat and then use a plumb to center?
I do the former, so it doesn't matter if the boat is exactly level or not. If you don't have one, buy a 50 ft or so flexible measuring tape (Harbor Freight has one that is not costly) and haul it up to the top using the main halyard. I tie a small (like 1/8 in) diam messenger line to the shackle, in addition to the measuring tape, just in case the tape should break so I could retrieve the halyard. These tapes have a loop on the end so easy to attach to the shackle. Then measure each side to some equivalent point on each chainplate (I use the hole for the outer shroud) and adjust the outers to the right tension (I do it by hand feel on the 23) and also so the mast is centered based on your measurements. Then adjust the inners (lower shrouds) to a good tension and sight up the mast track to get the mast straight. It is pretty obvious when it has sideways bend, and I figure that any bend you can't see by eye probably is too small to matter anyway.
I do the former, so it doesn't matter if the boat is exactly level or not. If you don't have one, buy a 50 ft or so flexible measuring tape (Harbor Freight has one that is not costly) and haul it up to the top using the main halyard. I tie a small (like 1/8 in) diam messenger line to the shackle, in addition to the measuring tape, just in case the tape should break so I could retrieve the halyard. These tapes have a loop on the end so easy to attach to the shackle. Then measure each side to some equivalent point on each chainplate (I use the hole for the outer shroud) and adjust the outers to the right tension (I do it by hand feel on the 23) and also so the mast is centered based on your measurements. Then adjust the inners (lower shrouds) to a good tension and sight up the mast track to get the mast straight. It is pretty obvious when it has sideways bend, and I figure that any bend you can't see by eye probably is too small to matter anyway.
I wonder too. All boats have a designed water line. The builders use it as a reference for all the up and down dimensions of the build. It is not necessarily the level line of the boat on a trailer. It might be close enough to tune a rig. Or it might not. The issue would be the rake of the mast. This might be hard to eyeball standing in a parking lot. If possible the best way to set mast rake is by knowing the forestay length that is recommended by the body of the same boat owners as Rx'ed in forums, websites, newsletters etc. Unless the boat is really askew port to starboard on the trailer the port to starboard lean should be viewable on a trailer. But the best way to assure athwartship lean of the mast is to measure it with a tape measure.
You need to determine if the plate is level when the boat is on the water, and not get the rigging set up "right" until it is on the water. The boat will flex and change shape on the trailer.
Thanks everyone! the only sailboat I have ever tuned was a Hobie style cat and I did a horrible job at it but that was about 20 years ago. So when I get around to it I may have to give crazy Dave a call.
If it's rake you are trying to get while on the trailer, you can stand back and take a picture, then measure the angle between mast and boot stripe. There may be a little distortion in the boot stripe, but the angle based on bow and stern points shouldn't change. Level, doesn't need to be achieved.
I, think the best place to do all that is in the water, but it isn't necessary.
- Will (Dragonfly)
I, think the best place to do all that is in the water, but it isn't necessary.
- Will (Dragonfly)
Will makes a good point. For rake, you can probably eyeball it and get it reasonably OK. Fine tuning once floating would not be difficult in any case, where you could use your halyard as a measure to get it closer to "correct".
I just did this, used the main halyard. Set it at a length that will allow you to just touch the tip of the halyard to a spot near the rail on port and starboard. This will allow you to see if the mast is straight port/starboard. Regarding the fore/aft rake, use a bubble level while on the water to determine a level spot. Then when on the trailer, adjust the trailer jack to obtain that same bubble.