Hello again all , my whole keel pivot and View attachment 138821 View attachment 138822 View attachment 138822 View attachment 138822 View attachment 138822 View attachment 138822 lifting assy is being replaced during my restoration, But my question is why does CD suggest replacing the keel cable tube . Mine looks like its in perfect shape along with the ball pin holes.Please any suggestions ...thank you Don
Keel cable tube
- Thread starter little breeze
- Start date
Don, the new tube from CD has the pin hole about an inch and a half (I think) lower than the original shown in your pics. This puts the turning ball lower in the tube and gives the cable a better 'angle of attack' to the keel. This is supposed to prevent the keel cable from touching or rubbing on part of the laminate and less stress on the cable.
In my resto thread I had pictures of the entire process of removing the old tube and glassing in the new one. I don't think you can see any of the pics in my thread right now because of the whole photobucket issue which I have not resolved just yet. Keep in mind this is a pretty extensive repair to get into. There are advantages to the new cable tube, but there are many, many, many C-22's out there with the original tube in perfect working order. I would say if its not damaged and the fiberglass isn't too thin or damaged its not worth digging into... time and cost wise.
In my resto thread I had pictures of the entire process of removing the old tube and glassing in the new one. I don't think you can see any of the pics in my thread right now because of the whole photobucket issue which I have not resolved just yet. Keep in mind this is a pretty extensive repair to get into. There are advantages to the new cable tube, but there are many, many, many C-22's out there with the original tube in perfect working order. I would say if its not damaged and the fiberglass isn't too thin or damaged its not worth digging into... time and cost wise.
That was easy you convinced me Ive spent a few years restoring this boat.the fiberglass looks sound around the tube.Ill live with it now,future project.lol thank you cloud diver.
I have a question on this. I just bought a '77 Catalina 22 and in the process of putting on a new keel winch, cable, turning ball and radiator hose. I have it all cleaned and ready to go, however, when I went to put the new ball in place I noticed the copper tube is slightly loose. I can twist it approx 1 mm either way. Thats it. All the fiberglass looks solid. Can I 3M 5200 around it? Pull it out and 5200 it and put it back in? Repairing the whole area with new fiberglass seems over kill.
Alot of strength is needed at that tube I would remove it and epoxy it back in.5200 has adhesive strength but nothing compared to marine epoxy
I remeasured the movement and it is approx 1/32 to 1/16 bow to stern only. I thought it would move by twisting, but I was inadvertently rocking it. It doesn't move port to starboard.
I have no problem switching adhesive, just wondering now if I should order the newer tube from CD.
I have no problem switching adhesive, just wondering now if I should order the newer tube from CD.
Update...
I went ahead and twisted the volcano tube out with a strap wrench. Came out easily and all fiberglass looks intact and solid. The pipe is threaded at the base I'm assuming for a purchase point for the fiberglass? I didn't really notice any threads in the fiberglassed volcano. I bit the bullet and ordered the new CD tube with the lower ball swivel holes. I figured why not make it right and be done with it. I plan on epoxying it with Gflex 650. Anyone disagree with this plan. I'm new and learning.
I went ahead and twisted the volcano tube out with a strap wrench. Came out easily and all fiberglass looks intact and solid. The pipe is threaded at the base I'm assuming for a purchase point for the fiberglass? I didn't really notice any threads in the fiberglassed volcano. I bit the bullet and ordered the new CD tube with the lower ball swivel holes. I figured why not make it right and be done with it. I plan on epoxying it with Gflex 650. Anyone disagree with this plan. I'm new and learning.
Yes I would change it out while you're there.As far as G flex never used it only marine epoxy .Bit I've talked to west systems G flex sounds like its some good stuff.The tube on mine is solid. Ill leave mine in. Sounds like a job for next season.
Steve, G Flex 650 is a great choice for epoxy. Getting the new volcano tube is a good idea, and consider your self SUPER lucky that your old tube just turned out of the old threads but left them intact. This makes replacing your volcano MUCH easier than others may have it. Basically you really just need to put the G Flex on the threads of the new tube and turn it in... but here are some things to keep in min.
- Getting a good bond; everything needs to be really clean, especially the 'threads' left in the original fiberglass. Use the toothbrush sized wire brush, stainless steel or brass bristle, and really scrub out that fiberglass. Using a flash light on the translucent fiberglass to see, make sure you get and dirt out and scuff it up a bit. Use acetone or denatured alcohol to clean up.
- Mark the tube with tape. Use the old tube as a guide and the tape a collar around the tube with painters tape where the rubber exhaust tube will seat. You don't want to get epoxy on this area.
- Scuff up the tube with sandpaper, this will help your bond... but just up to the tape line you marked. Wire brush between the threads too, then clean with a degreaser and again with denatured alcohol or acetone.
- Dry fit the tube before you epoxy. Make sure it will thread in level and plumb. You may want to have some weighted objects that can use to brace it in the proper position (you did mention a small amount of play). The tube does not have to tighten into the threads like a bolt, once it is threaded down and the turning ball pin is oriented correctly you can stop. Look at how the tube seats in the hole from the bottom of the boat, plan ahead on what epoxy squeeze out might do and how you will address it.
- When you butter the threads with mixed epoxy do it liberally, and also butter the threads in the glass. Squeeze out can be wiped away from the top, but you don't want have too little epoxy.
G Flex is a strong but slightly flexible epoxy, I have no doubt it will make an excellent water proof seal on the new tube. I would still recommend reinforcing the volcano tube union by adding some fiberglass tape. After the initial attachment of the new tube has cured overnight, sand down the volcano from the tape line all the way down the fiberglass (several inches), get all the old paint off and sand it really good with 80 grit. Use some two inch fiberglass tape or pre-cut strips and build up a new joint with the glass. The technique here is basically just wrapping it like you are making a cast. Go several inches down but don't have to go all the way to the deck.
Reviving an old thread. Has anybody just redrilled holes lower on the tube for better placement rather than installing “new” tube?
I never messed with mine. I don't think many people do.
I don't see why not though. If you botch the drilling job, you can always replace it.
I don't see why not though. If you botch the drilling job, you can always replace it.
Thanks Gene. I’ve been watching your videos, they are inspiring! I’ll go at it and post the results hopefully this week.