Keel bolts

[Voyager1]

when my boat was hulled out for the winter I noticed a 1/8 inch or so crack around the keel. I torqued two keel bolts to 250lb, from previous post the recommended torque is 180lb but I only have a torque up to 250lb. The other torque wrench I have goes to 600lb and is a monster to handle and not sure it would fit in the cabin. I did not notice any movement on the bolts. I plan on moving the post that supports the mast to torque the third bold. If the bolts don’t move is it worth grinding out the crack and filling it G/flex or something similar. I am think the crack will come back when the boat is put back in the water. Any thoughts

 

[Voyager1]

Sorry recommendation for torque is 280 not 180

 

[kloudie1]

Sounds good.. It looks like it will flex again, so your solution of a small grind-out and then fill with some thickened G/Flex should seal it and allow it to move a little without cracking.. cleanliness of the application site before the epoxy goes in is what could make or break the repair..

 

[heritage]

Have you read what MaineSail posted a few years ago about an Oday 302 keel problem.

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/oday-302-loses-keel-check-yours.109869/

Don't mean to freak you out, but that crack raises some red flags. At least check for any wiggle in the keel when it is in the sling.

 

[The Tanqueray]

I did quite a lot of investigating regards keel issues when I purchased my O'Day 322. It seemed that the layup schedule was changed without any input from the designer after the fraudulent Leveraged Buyout of O'Day took place.
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/oday-322-back-story.121123/
I posted a long series on the keel sump issue. Search "The Tanqueray"and they should come up.
My guess was that you don't want a boat that was on the production line when the buyout took place.My 322 is Hull number 35 and I think there were about 150 made. My keel sump is close the 3/4 inch. Some of the last ones were 1/4 inch.
I am not familiar with the 302 but it's possible the same situation holds.

 

[Voyager1]

Thanks for the info, looks like my boat was built during that time or right after. Not sure what production time for a boat is but if I am reading my hull number right it was made in Dec of 87. The manufacturer Desination is STR. Must of been after the buyout. How do you check your hull thickness? Do I need to take the keel off.

 

[Sunbird22358]

STR indicates "Starcraft Sailboats" So, that would be prior to the leveraged Buyout, STR was used while O'DAY/CAL were under the Starcraft Division of Lear-Siegler Marine (Division of Lear-Siegler Industries), after Bangor-Punta sold off their boating lines, but before Lear-Siegler sold the O'DAY/CAL part to a group of investors (the leveraged Buyout). I think LSI sold O'DAY/CAL in 1988? O'DAY was foreclosed on by the Banks in May 1989, so any boats built around that date may be questionable as they could be "owner-completed" or finished off by a boatyard that bought the partly completed boat at auction. Then again, if a GOOD, QUALITY boatyard (or other professional) purchased and finished off the partly completed 1989 model, it might be better than if O'DAY did it.

 

[Tally Ho]

So, it appears my hull was made in 7/87, but what number is the hull #?

XDYG0149I788

I hope “49” and not 149!

I check my keel every season, and she seems tight, but I have not dropped it or drilled a hole to test thickness.

Greg

 

[JimInPB]

If it were my boat, I would want the keel joint to be rigid, not flexing. If the joint can flex back & forth & the boat is subjected to the periodic motion that waves normally create, then you will have a perfect environment for material fatigue to set in. This will be further compounded by the added mechanical advantage that comes with a narrower rigid bearing surface width, if the full width of the mating surfaces is no longer fully supported. For these reasons, I would think that a keel/hull joint perimeter repair with a rigid material, like fiberglass, would be preferable to a repair with a flexible sealant. I would think that a proper repair would involve dropping the keel & building up a proper mating surface, perhaps after removing some old material that was no longer 100% of what it once was.

I have a fairly good background in mechanical systems & material properties for industrial applications, but I am not an expert in keels, so please take my thoughts on this subject with a grain of salt.