I've got an older boat that came with an Automac alternator control installed. I understand it is a variable charging rate manual control for the alternator, but I'm not sure it even works - does anyone have a source for info on this controller - I've tried Google and other internet search sources, no luck so far.
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Automac by other names
Jim, The alternator control called AutoMAC was made by Spa Creek of Annapolis, MD. West Marine sold it. The Catalina Assn tech manual describes how to make one. I believe Spa Creek is gone, but Lewco Electric Co., 456 Newport Blvd, Costa Mesa, CA 92663 still sells them. The Lewco model has an ammeter that shows the adjusted current as you dial the rheostat (or solid state equivalent). This bypasses the normal regulator to increase the charging rate. We use it on a 55 amp alternator for a quick charge when we are not going to run the engine long. The problem is that you can overcharge the batteries and boil out the water if you are not careful. There are automatic versions now that avoid that problem. Personally, I want to control the charging rate myself and like the manual control. The alternator can heat up if you set it too high for too long. You need to have your syatem well metered to know what's happening. If the unit is off, the standard regulator will be in control. Jack Swords
Jim, The alternator control called AutoMAC was made by Spa Creek of Annapolis, MD. West Marine sold it. The Catalina Assn tech manual describes how to make one. I believe Spa Creek is gone, but Lewco Electric Co., 456 Newport Blvd, Costa Mesa, CA 92663 still sells them. The Lewco model has an ammeter that shows the adjusted current as you dial the rheostat (or solid state equivalent). This bypasses the normal regulator to increase the charging rate. We use it on a 55 amp alternator for a quick charge when we are not going to run the engine long. The problem is that you can overcharge the batteries and boil out the water if you are not careful. There are automatic versions now that avoid that problem. Personally, I want to control the charging rate myself and like the manual control. The alternator can heat up if you set it too high for too long. You need to have your syatem well metered to know what's happening. If the unit is off, the standard regulator will be in control. Jack Swords
Jack Swords
Jack: Is the Spa Creek unit the same as the "Auto-Maxc" that Weems & Plath offered? Gord
Jack: Is the Spa Creek unit the same as the "Auto-Maxc" that Weems & Plath offered? Gord
AutoMac
Jim Consider yourself very lucky! The AutoMac is a neat instrument if you don't have a newer alternator with the plug-in leads, and you know enough about batteries and charging, and are careful. Calder's Boatowner's Manual has an excellent description. We have a 1986 boat with the old standard 55 Amp Motorola alternator, and have been using the Automac successfully for the past five years. We did a lot of research to learn how to use it, and actually were in England on vacation in 1998 when we got in touch by email with a fellow C34 sailor in SF who copied the manual for us and mailed it to us so it was there for us when we got home. The Automac of that vintage usually has a switch that automatically cuts out when charging voltage rises above a preset limit, usually 14.2 for wet cells, and is adjustable. Hence, the AUTO part of the name. The way it works is that it is a rheostat that 'fools' the signal to the alternator and tells it to start putting out amps, regardless of the condition of the batteries. Therefore, it is VERY useful to recharge depleted batteries in less time than the internal (useless) regulator on your old alternator. However, it could cook your batteries if you are fully charged and your Automac is set to charge, although the Auto part would also shut it down. We like it very much. We've met people with Automacs who didn't realise that when the switch is ON, it draws 2 amps. Turn it off when not in use. Doesn't matter what position the rheostat is in, but the switch. I'd be glad to send you the manual, however, we're in Austria now and won't be home until August 2. If you send me an email at sec@c34.org, with an address or fax number, I'll get back to you soon after. It's a good piece of equipment that would require a new alternator and external regulator to replace (mucho $$$). Also try looking on the C34 website, www.c34.org, and search for Automac, or on the message board, use the Find feature, and do a separate search engine there, or look under posts under my name on the message board with 'AutoMac.' You may also check the archives on this website under Automac, regulators and other references, since I'm sure I discussed this subject on this 'site, too. Best regards, Stu Jackson IAC34 Association Secretary PS Jack's reply was 'right on.'
Jim Consider yourself very lucky! The AutoMac is a neat instrument if you don't have a newer alternator with the plug-in leads, and you know enough about batteries and charging, and are careful. Calder's Boatowner's Manual has an excellent description. We have a 1986 boat with the old standard 55 Amp Motorola alternator, and have been using the Automac successfully for the past five years. We did a lot of research to learn how to use it, and actually were in England on vacation in 1998 when we got in touch by email with a fellow C34 sailor in SF who copied the manual for us and mailed it to us so it was there for us when we got home. The Automac of that vintage usually has a switch that automatically cuts out when charging voltage rises above a preset limit, usually 14.2 for wet cells, and is adjustable. Hence, the AUTO part of the name. The way it works is that it is a rheostat that 'fools' the signal to the alternator and tells it to start putting out amps, regardless of the condition of the batteries. Therefore, it is VERY useful to recharge depleted batteries in less time than the internal (useless) regulator on your old alternator. However, it could cook your batteries if you are fully charged and your Automac is set to charge, although the Auto part would also shut it down. We like it very much. We've met people with Automacs who didn't realise that when the switch is ON, it draws 2 amps. Turn it off when not in use. Doesn't matter what position the rheostat is in, but the switch. I'd be glad to send you the manual, however, we're in Austria now and won't be home until August 2. If you send me an email at sec@c34.org, with an address or fax number, I'll get back to you soon after. It's a good piece of equipment that would require a new alternator and external regulator to replace (mucho $$$). Also try looking on the C34 website, www.c34.org, and search for Automac, or on the message board, use the Find feature, and do a separate search engine there, or look under posts under my name on the message board with 'AutoMac.' You may also check the archives on this website under Automac, regulators and other references, since I'm sure I discussed this subject on this 'site, too. Best regards, Stu Jackson IAC34 Association Secretary PS Jack's reply was 'right on.'
B.T.W.
For a number of years, I ran a 35A Hitachi Alternator on a Yanmar 2GMF with a double throw selector switch cut into the sense lead ("R"). One side of the switch was direct connected to the battery; while the other side was connected through a diode to the battery. The diode reduces the sensed (exciter) voltage by 0.7VDC, fooling the alternator (internal regulator) into a higher output (H.O.). Please note the previous cautions - left too long in the H.O. position, your batteries are at risk of boiling. Regards, Gord
For a number of years, I ran a 35A Hitachi Alternator on a Yanmar 2GMF with a double throw selector switch cut into the sense lead ("R"). One side of the switch was direct connected to the battery; while the other side was connected through a diode to the battery. The diode reduces the sensed (exciter) voltage by 0.7VDC, fooling the alternator (internal regulator) into a higher output (H.O.). Please note the previous cautions - left too long in the H.O. position, your batteries are at risk of boiling. Regards, Gord
Info on Automac, part 2
Thanks to all for the info, especially the information on the companies - but what I really need is an owners manual so I'll know how to use the thing and whether it really is working or not - I mostly use the boat for daysailing, and have a 3 stage charger that keeps the batteries up, so about all I ever see the automac do is show about a 5-10 amp charge while motoring if I am using the refrigerator or nav lights- It has an on/off switch, a slotted screw labled "adjustment", a rotary switch that is not labled, a fuse holder, and an indicator light that does not function - thus my confusion as to whether it is really working or not. Thanks for the info
Thanks to all for the info, especially the information on the companies - but what I really need is an owners manual so I'll know how to use the thing and whether it really is working or not - I mostly use the boat for daysailing, and have a 3 stage charger that keeps the batteries up, so about all I ever see the automac do is show about a 5-10 amp charge while motoring if I am using the refrigerator or nav lights- It has an on/off switch, a slotted screw labled "adjustment", a rotary switch that is not labled, a fuse holder, and an indicator light that does not function - thus my confusion as to whether it is really working or not. Thanks for the info
What size?
Gord, What size diode did you use? I use the same system for bench testing GM CS alternators (can't remember what size right now).
Gord, What size diode did you use? I use the same system for bench testing GM CS alternators (can't remember what size right now).
1N5400 Diode
STU: Sorry, I don't recall what I used, either. Shouldn't be critical tho', as it carries VERY small load - perhaps a 3Amp #1N5400. More robust can't hurt. I did'nt use a heat sink - just soldered directly to D.T. switch tab. Regards, Gord
STU: Sorry, I don't recall what I used, either. Shouldn't be critical tho', as it carries VERY small load - perhaps a 3Amp #1N5400. More robust can't hurt. I did'nt use a heat sink - just soldered directly to D.T. switch tab. Regards, Gord
Thanks to all for info on Automac
Thanks to all who responded to the question about info on the Automac regulator. I still can't find an owners manual, but at least I think I understand how the circuit works now. It seems there are still a lot of these out there on older boats, and judging from the response on this and other boards, no one still has the owners manual! thanks
Thanks to all who responded to the question about info on the Automac regulator. I still can't find an owners manual, but at least I think I understand how the circuit works now. It seems there are still a lot of these out there on older boats, and judging from the response on this and other boards, no one still has the owners manual! thanks
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