Hunter Whitlock Steering Adjustment ???

[jeff356]

Have a 2003 Hunter 356 with a little play in the Whitlock Steering system on the top end that I am sure is coming from the gear assembly behind the wheel in the pedestal. Steering is very responsive and works well.

Is there an adjustment to what I would think is a set of gears or sprocket or possibly a worn bushing or part?

If anyone has a schematic, link or experience that would be helpful.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[Marc14857]

Jeff,

Is your steering system a Whitlock Cobra system which is a rack and pinion configuration?

If it is there are shims where the wheel housing attaches to the pedestal. Removing one or two of these shims compensates for wear between the rack and pinion by allowing the pinion to more tightly engage the rack. You can search Whitlock Cobra steering to get the necessary diagrams and maintenance instructions.

 

[chuckwayne]

What Mark said - I'll attach my copy of the manual - it's not a very good one. If someone has a better copy, please post!
Chuck

 

[jeff356]

Thanks to both Marc & Chuck.
Looks like it is rather easy to remove a plastic spacer and that should tighten it up.
Will update when I can get to the boat and try it.
Jeff

 

[CharlieSea]

Please let us know how it turns out. Mine has a tiny bit of play also. How much should there be?

 

[JimInPB]

Also look for play in the various keyways. I think that there are at least 3.

 

[dehler25]

I have the same issue with a Whitlock Mamba, perhaps the pedestal configuration is very similar, I would be surprised if they designed a new drive system with every model.. The hardware that mounts the pedestal top in place is supposed to be removed yearly to prevent the dreaded dissimilar corrosion between the stainless screws and aluminum pedestal, guess what was never done by PO. I have soaked rapped and banged to no avail. Of course I can snap them off but if anyone has ever tried to drill out steel screws in an aluminum housing it is phenomenally easy to drift off the itty bitty screw and damage the housing, so I have avoided that to date.

 

[dehler25]

Jeff,

Is your steering system a Whitlock Cobra system which is a rack and pinion configuration?

If it is there are shims where the wheel housing attaches to the pedestal. Removing one or two of these shims compensates for wear between the rack and pinion by allowing the pinion to more tightly engage the rack. You can search Whitlock Cobra steering to get the necessary diagrams and maintenance instructions.

Will the pinion extract without opening up the pedestal from top down, as I have broken the those retaining screws free? The cobra diagram appears almost identical with the exception of the brake and I don't see anything that prevents the aft movement.

 

[JimInPB]

... I have soaked rapped and banged to no avail. Of course I can snap them off but if anyone has ever tried to drill out steel screws in an aluminum housing it is phenomenally easy to drift off the itty bitty screw and damage the housing, so I have avoided that to date.

In that situation, I have had my best success snapping off the heads, then mig welding a nut onto the remaining stem of the bolt. As soon as the bright orange fades to dark, it is time to turn the screw out. The heat from the welding really helps to loosen up the grip between the aluminum & the SS, at least for a few seconds. That is usually long enough to get things moving. The mig wire doesn't really stick to the aluminum.

 

[dehler25]

Great idea but even though I actually own a brand new TIG 175 welder I have never powered it up! I did a small amount on a similar machine and found it very challenging I wouldn't trust myself to approach it that way, but the heating can work miracles

 

[JimInPB]

Most TIG machines will also run as a stick welder (TIG is CC power like a stick, not CV like a MIG). If I were going to pull that trick with a TIG machine, I would run a 6010 or 6011 rod as a first choice. A 7014 would be plan B & only if "in position".