Hunter Vision 32 isomat single line reefing system

Apr 16, 2016
19
T-Craft TS18 Moraine
I am currently trying to repair the isomat single line reefing system on a 1991 Hunter Vision. I tried to get technical help from Rig Rite but they do not want to help. They basically told me to take it apart and figure it out for myself. They also indicated they do not sell the shuttle blocks anymore. The boat currently does not have any reefing lines going into the boom (no messenger lines either) . I think it will be impossible to try to fish these lines into the boom and thru the shuttle blocks. So the only option I have is to drill out the rivets from the end cap of the boom and take out the shuttle blocks and try to re-rig it. From the diagram, there appears to be two shuttle blocks in the boom. One for the 1st reef, and a second for the 2nd reef.
So my questions:
Is single line reefing actually 2 line reefing? It looks from the diagram that one line is used for the first reefing point and a second line is used for the second reefing point.
What type of line would be best for the reefing lines since they have to go thru the blocks?
Would switching to slab or jiffy reefing be a better way to solve this problem? Thanks, Bob


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Apr 16, 2016
19
T-Craft TS18 Moraine
@Rick D Thanks Rick. I will be sure to check out the link. It looks like it has all of the diagrams and reefing line specs right in document. The Isomat system looks too complicated and your suggestion will simplify it making it easier to maintain. Thanks again, Bob
 

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,139
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
Bob, I had a V32 for nine years, but I can't recall from memory the system. I think it was basically the same as on our 40.5. Good luck!
 
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Oct 22, 2014
21,104
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
@rkinross When I had my mast and rig refitted on my CAL35C, had the rigger install an internal boom outhaul, but external reefing. I chose to terminate at the mast. Has worked very smoothly. The internal outhaul means no confusion and there is a 4-1 rig. All install was made by removing the boom, opening both ends and installing the rig assuring fair leads for the lines. Rig used no stretch dynemma lines which reduced the volume in the boom and made the setting more sure.
 
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Feb 2, 2006
464
Hunter Legend 35 Kingston
Good single line reefing systems have a shuttle block in the boom and really have two lines, but you should only need to pull a "single line". This makes the system usable and reduces friction so that the system works. A single line reefing system that really only has one line is likely to have too much friction to be usable or safe. I had one such system and removed it after one season. The tack would pull tight before the clew and it was always hard to get the clew pulled down to the boom. If all the turning blocks and sail grommets were of lower friction, then it may work better.

Chris
 
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Jun 25, 2004
1,108
Corsair F24 Mk1 003 San Francisco Bay, CA
So the only option I have is to drill out the rivets from the end cap of the boom and take out the shuttle blocks and try to re-rig it.
Is there a compelling reason why you don’t want to take both end caps off the boom? It’s the easiest and most direct way to inspect and diagnose the problem and fix whatever system you’ve got. Unless something inside is broken and needs repair, rigging replacement lines is quick, and the whole job is very straight forward.

btw

JudyB

Ps. The isomat boom drawing is from an Island Packet. Your system may be very different.
 
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Jun 8, 2004
10,063
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Prior to Kenyon Isomat being purchased by Z Spar in the 90's, it was my understanding what they had was also in other masts supplied to various boat manufactures so a drawing from the Island Packet should be the same as the others. Info came from the general manager at Keyon Isomat who was a friend of mine.